Should I remove my bio balls?

AydenLincoln

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My nitrates are higher than I’d like them to be between and I’ve read bio balls can be a contributing factor among other things. I recently added some macro algae because water changes and carbon dosing was not helping lower it more than 20 in the long run. Should I remove them and my sponges? Are sponges necessary too? Do they harvest nitrates like bio balls? I know bio balls are more helpful during a tank cycle. I also am really trying not to chase numbers anymore but I am wondering if it would help.
 

Gatorpa

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My nitrates are higher than I’d like them to be between and I’ve read bio balls can be a contributing factor among other things. I recently added some macro algae because water changes and carbon dosing was not helping lower it more than 20 in the long run. Should I remove them and my sponges? Are sponges necessary too? Do they harvest nitrates like bio balls? I know bio balls are more helpful during a tank cycle. I also am really trying not to chase numbers anymore but I am wondering if it would help.
What are your nitrates first off…?
 

PeterEde

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My nitrates are higher than I’d like them to be between and I’ve read bio balls can be a contributing factor among other things. I recently added some macro algae because water changes and carbon dosing was not helping lower it more than 20 in the long run. Should I remove them and my sponges? Are sponges necessary too? Do they harvest nitrates like bio balls? I know bio balls are more helpful during a tank cycle. I also am really trying not to chase numbers anymore but I am wondering if it would help.
I removed the cheap bio bricks/balls I had and replaced most with just 4, 2 mantis and 2 genesis blocks. I'm still struggling with high No3.
I have done 6 20 liter WC to drop mine from 60 down to 30 and now increased NOPOX does.
 
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AydenLincoln

AydenLincoln

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What are your nitrates first off…?
30 right now…but I was hoping to get them lower. Carbon dosing got them down from 50 to 20 lol. But they seem to hover around 20-30 and don’t go lower.
 
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PeterEde

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30 right now…but I was hoping to get them lower. Carbon dosing got them down from 50 to 20 lol. But they seem to hover around 20-30 and don’t go lower.
My LPS/Softies seem to like the dirty 30. I have a leather that has never opened in 5 months. It gets plump and bright between 25-35. Anything above or below and it wilts.
But has never opened.
I'm now aiming for 30 just to see it it will ever open
 

Gatorpa

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30 right now…but I was hoping to get them lower. Carbon dosing got them down from 50 to 20 lol. But they seem to hover around 20-30 and don’t go lower.
Maybe just give it time, how long has the system been running?
 

Gtinnel

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The way I have always looked at it (and I’m not 100% sure I’m right) is that somewhere in your system you have to have enough bacteria to convert ammonia to nitrate. Your amount of nitrate produced is going to be the same without doing something to reduce the amount of ammonia being made with or without the bio balls. If you replaced the bio balls with a media that grows bacteria to convert nitrate to nitrogen gas then that would help with your nitrate levels, or adding a refugium or algae reactor/scrubber would help lower them

I don’t think just removing the bio balls is going to give you the result you are wanting. Although if your tank has an appropriate amount of live rock then you can remove the bio balls without any issue.
 

ZombieEngineer

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It won't make a big difference in a small timespan. In the long run, replacing the bioballs with something that is capable of converting nitrate to nitrogen gas will be helpful (such as more rock) but know that this is a long game fix.

You will not get a substantial colony to do this work on its own until closer to the 1 year mark. You also have to be careful with detritus buildup. A deep sandbed or rock rubble pile can easily turn into nitrate factories instead of sinks if you let them accumulate too much detritus.
 

TangerineSpeedo

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When you are talking about bioballs, do you mean the plastic ones or ceramic? Also I believe sponges can be a benefit in reducing nitrates if properly used. but the key is you need to rinse them out in seawater every three days to rinse out any detritus build up, just like a sock. Does your 20 have socks also? If so do you change or clean every three days? The Anaerobic bacteria to pull down your nitrates needs to be in a low flow area. Usually, live rock in the DT does not have much of a low flow areas to start out with. Thats why I believe that a sponge in your first overflow chamber can help. I will naturally create low flow areas on the back and in the corners
 

Daniel@R2R

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Are these plastic or ceramic bio balls? If plastic, I'd toss 'em.
 

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My nitrates are higher than I’d like them to be between and I’ve read bio balls can be a contributing factor among other things. I recently added some macro algae because water changes and carbon dosing was not helping lower it more than 20 in the long run. Should I remove them and my sponges? Are sponges necessary too? Do they harvest nitrates like bio balls? I know bio balls are more helpful during a tank cycle. I also am really trying not to chase numbers anymore but I am wondering if it would help.
Removing the bio balls isn't really going to make a major impact on your nitrate. Is your tank heavily stocked?
 

ikaros70

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I have been keeping saltwater aquariums since bioballs were one of the main sources of biofiltration. As long as your rinsing off your bioballs every month or two, it won’t be the main source of your nitrate issues.
Assuming you have the plastic bioballs.
The only time bioballs become a problem is if you allow them to build up with all the gunk without rinsing them off.
When doing water changes, just rinse off the bioballs in a bucket filled with your old water, you won’t have any issues with bioballs as long as you rinse them off occasionally.
Once a month is probably plenty, as long as your not majorly overstocked or feeding really heavy.
Your tank is also fairly new, it usually takes a good year for a tank to fully mature.
Carbon dosing will control any nitrate issues you are having. You just have to ramp up your dosing to the proper amount.
I dose vinegar, works well, it’s cheap and also provides a food source for corals.
When I rebooted my 210, my nitrates skyrocket off the charts, test kit was blood red, off the charts. I am 99% sure it was due to the rock sitting around for a few years until I was able to start the 210 back up.
Regardless, carbon dosing got the nitrate under control.
Personally, I would just dose either vodka or vinegar. I had always used vodka in the past and it worked well, but, when I rebooted the 210 I started using vinegar as it’s also a food source for the corals.
Anyway, that’s my 2 pennies on the subject :)
 

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