Signs of bad PH probe?

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Hi!

My PH probe is around 2 years now, and have not changed it yet. Its a lab grade probe, so this should last for a little bit longer, i read.

But for a couple of months now, i got so low reading. I have calibrated it, but still low readings.

So my question is; Can i get low readings because of old probe?

My readings is all the way from 7,58 to 8,18 during the night / day.

I have added a Co2 scrubber to stable the flucations but its still sinking on the night time.
 
Does it read the calibration solutions correctly after calibration?

Is it temperature automatically corrected and is the temp being properly measured the calibration solutions?
 
Does it read the calibration solutions correctly after calibration?

Is it temperature automatically corrected and is the temp being properly measured the calibration solutions?


Can you please explain your temperature statement Randy. Does the pH probe measure the temperature?
 
Can you please explain your temperature statement Randy. Does the pH probe measure the temperature?

No it doesn't, but pH measurement is somewhat temperature sensitive and controllers usually have a separate temperature sensor that they may be using to determine the pH calibration and measurement adjustments.

Aquarium Chemistry: Measuring pH with a Meter ? Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/2/chemistry

A Comparison of pH Calibration Buffers by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-02/rhf/index.htm

from the first one:

Temperature Effects on pH Measurement
There are two different ways that temperature impacts pH measurement. The first involves actual chemical changes in the solution that you are measuring. Acids can, for example, become stronger or weaker as the temperature is changed. This is how calibration standards change their pH as a function of temperature (which is discussed in more detail in the calibration section below). If the solution has solids in contact with it (as is the case with saturated limewater in the presence of excess solids), the temperature can also impact how much acid or base is in solution impacting pH, and how much is just solid sitting on the bottom of the container. These effects are specific for every solution that you will encounter, and there is nothing general that one can or should do about this, except be aware that it happens.

The second impact of temperature is on the pH electrode itself. pH electrodes change their response in a very clear way as temperature is changes. They respond more strongly to pH changes at higher temperature than at lower ones. At 100 ºC, they change their output potential by 74 mV/pH unit, and at 0 ºC, they change by 54 mv/pH unit. Because pH meters are typically standardized at pH 7 (that is, zero mv = pH 7), the error from temperature differences gets greater and greater as the pH being measured gets further from 7. So it may be trivial when measuring something with a pH of 7.1, but very important when measuring something with a pH of 10 (or when calibrating with a pH 10 buffer).

There are usually three different ways of taking temperature into account. One is to make measurements close to the temperature at which you calibrated the meter (say, within a few degrees). The second is to "tell' the meter what the temperature is (digitally or with a dial). The third is that some meters have a temperature probe, usually called an ATC, which you stick into the measuring solution. This probe reports the temperature back to the meter, and the meter makes any necessary corrections (for this type of temperature effect).

As long as you use one of these three ways of dealing with temperature issues, you will get reasonably accurate readings.
 
Here you can see the Fluctations.

APEX_Fusion.PNG
 
Yes. It reads the 7 solution and 10. But its running on the second year now.

I had probes that lasted years just fine. :)
 
Over the past ten years of my Apex, I have gone through 3 probes for pH. So, they last a while. The last two however were just in the last 4 years, so they do go bad. Mine was just not holding calibration and was all over the board. I have a stand alone probe I use on picos, and that is how I would do some testing.
 
Hi

You live in Norway - its getting cold - you close your windows and CO2 rise.

A trick to get some ideas of how the pH probe works. Calibrate it. Disconnect the probe and short circuit the female BNC contact into the meter (or interface). You will get a reading - in the best of all words 7.0. But it will differ from 7.0 and the difference will tell you if you should change the probe. Most probes (and meters) can accept plus minus 0.3 - 0.4 in pH (its the offset point translated into pH). The closer you are 7.0 - the better. You can also get a hint if you measure the time it will take for the meter/interface to stabilize to the different calibrations points. Faster - the better

Sincerely Lasse
 
Hi

You live in Norway - its getting cold - you close your windows and CO2 rise.

A trick to get some ideas of how the pH probe works. Calibrate it. Disconnect the probe and short circuit the female BNC contact into the meter (or interface). You will get a reading - in the best of all words 7.0. But it will differ from 7.0 and the difference will tell you if you should change the probe. Most probes (and meters) can accept plus minus 0.3 - 0.4 in pH (its the offset point translated into pH). The closer you are 7.0 - the better. You can also get a hint if you measure the time it will take for the meter/interface to stabilize to the different calibrations points. Faster - the better

Sincerely Lasse

Yeah. Thats for sure.

I gonna try that method and see. Thank alot for the tips!
 

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