Smite's Stout CDA - 205g Acropora dominant system 50x38x25"

Billldg

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Same here. My pintail rarely flashed until now. Every evening is a show for the last hour of the day. Pretty cool but I do worry someone is going to take a header jumping into the bracing.
That is the one thing we can not control unfortunately. I have a top on my tank as well. We can only control what we actually can control.;)
 
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That is the one thing we can not control unfortunately. I have a top on my tank as well. We can only control what we actually can control.;)
So true. When someone's getting punked I yell "HEY!" and tap the glass. From there..it's in their hands! :p
 
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Not a good day for RRU Rainbow Blossom. This guy locked up on me a few months back in my 75g, started to stn and would go on/off over the last few months. Never got color back much, kinda of just a flesh color to it.

Well I saw some fresh STN a few days ago. Today, it really lit up and I'm sure would have been gone by morning.

So I pulled it and dipped it for 30 minutes in witch hazel @ 7.5ml to 1L of tank water. I stirred it every 5 minutes and sat it on the lid of my sump to hopefully help hold temp.
4ECD961A-5FEE-4EFD-ACE2-42FA7083C221.jpeg



It survived the dip and fragging. On closer inspection when I turned all white lights on for a picture I'm worried it's already toast. I feel like maybe all the polyps already rotted out, so I'm not holding out a lot of hope. My money is on a mostly white frag rack in the morning but I had to try something.

If they survive, I'll be dipping a few pieces that also went funky during that same event a few months back. Not really a fair test of witch hazel treatment since it was so far gone, but I'll update as it goes.
799CA0A1-9CC2-4D5F-8F47-5DF8462BC646.jpeg
CB1F201A-05E4-4A23-B67D-4F7966AAA163.jpeg
8EC0508B-8011-4988-98EA-582F6B137DDB.jpeg


Pictures taken under all whites of the a360we lights, all blue showed no real hope either.


My nutrients bottomed 2 days in, I tried to supplement with feeding a ton but still wasn't registering any phosphate. I've started to slowly dose neophos even though I'm not really a fan of that. I'll continue on until I get to .06-.08, continue to feed heavy and see if it will hold the value around there. Hopefully that in addition to a completely new light source are the two stressors I'm dealing with here, everything else is pretty much inline.

A note for myself of tank parameters form today:

1.025
alk 8.3
calcium 450
magnesium 1440
nitrate 5
p04 .04
 
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Thank you!

I've had this piece for a few years. Initially under radions, then mh/led and now t5/led. I gotta say no matter the light source this piece is just awesome. I can't wait to see it with some more vertical growth I feel like it'll develop some colors depending on PAR. You can see the green in the partially shadowed areas, it's got a good red tone to it overall but the tips have some orange to it. I'm hoping to see more orange as it grows towards the light.

DSC_0917.jpg
 
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Well a buddy let me borrow is apogee 200 and I think I may have found at least part of my issue to be very intense par. I'll be cutting out the kessils during t5 hours for now even though I love the shimmer.

My light sits about 8" off the water line (for spillage)

All my rock work is below the 1/2 way point in the tank, so about 12" down from top. With kessils off and all t5s a go I'm 550 dead center on the middle rock and pretty much 350-400 around the edges at that height, the lower 350 areas are along the back glass.

I was running the kessils at 50% intensity and 50% color. I was surprised to see 200 bump in par across the board. So some of these areas, like with the supersonic were bouncing between 750-800+ (with the surface agitation I would see an occasional 1000+ spike when the refraction was right.

My sand with just the ATI is 200(far corners)-300 range just about everywhere. With the kessils on it was 350-400, so these kessils actually do pack a decent punch.

I tried lowering the kessil output to 25% power but I was still well over 600 par just about everywhere under the ati footprint at that point.

With kessils only I'm able to get 150-200 par on my rocks, so I'll be using that to extend my photoperiod and ramp up ramp down. I'll miss the shimmer during the day though but hopefully I just found the major stress factor for some of these tenuis. I can imagine if the par was that high and my nutrients did bottom out for a day or two that could be it.

1F5F0E9A-3D9F-43B5-BDB0-0D60C5439263.jpeg
 

VanDalsenReef

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Well a buddy let me borrow is apogee 200 and I think I may have found at least part of my issue to be very intense par. I'll be cutting out the kessils during t5 hours for now even though I love the shimmer.

My light sits about 8" off the water line (for spillage)

All my rock work is below the 1/2 way point in the tank, so about 12" down from top. With kessils off and all t5s a go I'm 550 dead center on the middle rock and pretty much 350-400 around the edges at that height, the lower 350 areas are along the back glass.

I was running the kessils at 50% intensity and 50% color. I was surprised to see 200 bump in par across the board. So some of these areas, like with the supersonic were bouncing between 750-800+ (with the surface agitation I would see an occasional 1000+ spike when the refraction was right.

My sand with just the ATI is 200(far corners)-300 range just about everywhere. With the kessils on it was 350-400, so these kessils actually do pack a decent punch.

I tried lowering the kessil output to 25% power but I was still well over 600 par just about everywhere under the ati footprint at that point.

With kessils only I'm able to get 150-200 par on my rocks, so I'll be using that to extend my photoperiod and ramp up ramp down. I'll miss the shimmer during the day though but hopefully I just found the major stress factor for some of these tenuis. I can imagine if the par was that high and my nutrients did bottom out for a day or two that could be it.

1F5F0E9A-3D9F-43B5-BDB0-0D60C5439263.jpeg
You can acclimate them to higher par it just takes longer. 6 months I would say. I'm hitting your same numbers and sometimes higher in spots. (I run slightly different lights but I'm getting crazy par as well.) What your plan is should work but I'd slowly work the kessils back in just for the shimmer as it's also my favorite
 

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Well a buddy let me borrow is apogee 200 and I think I may have found at least part of my issue to be very intense par. I'll be cutting out the kessils during t5 hours for now even though I love the shimmer.

My light sits about 8" off the water line (for spillage)

All my rock work is below the 1/2 way point in the tank, so about 12" down from top. With kessils off and all t5s a go I'm 550 dead center on the middle rock and pretty much 350-400 around the edges at that height, the lower 350 areas are along the back glass.

I was running the kessils at 50% intensity and 50% color. I was surprised to see 200 bump in par across the board. So some of these areas, like with the supersonic were bouncing between 750-800+ (with the surface agitation I would see an occasional 1000+ spike when the refraction was right.

My sand with just the ATI is 200(far corners)-300 range just about everywhere. With the kessils on it was 350-400, so these kessils actually do pack a decent punch.

I tried lowering the kessil output to 25% power but I was still well over 600 par just about everywhere under the ati footprint at that point.

With kessils only I'm able to get 150-200 par on my rocks, so I'll be using that to extend my photoperiod and ramp up ramp down. I'll miss the shimmer during the day though but hopefully I just found the major stress factor for some of these tenuis. I can imagine if the par was that high and my nutrients did bottom out for a day or two that could be it.

1F5F0E9A-3D9F-43B5-BDB0-0D60C5439263.jpeg
Is the apogee meter rated for leds and water submersion
 

Billldg

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Well a buddy let me borrow is apogee 200 and I think I may have found at least part of my issue to be very intense par. I'll be cutting out the kessils during t5 hours for now even though I love the shimmer.

My light sits about 8" off the water line (for spillage)

All my rock work is below the 1/2 way point in the tank, so about 12" down from top. With kessils off and all t5s a go I'm 550 dead center on the middle rock and pretty much 350-400 around the edges at that height, the lower 350 areas are along the back glass.

I was running the kessils at 50% intensity and 50% color. I was surprised to see 200 bump in par across the board. So some of these areas, like with the supersonic were bouncing between 750-800+ (with the surface agitation I would see an occasional 1000+ spike when the refraction was right.

My sand with just the ATI is 200(far corners)-300 range just about everywhere. With the kessils on it was 350-400, so these kessils actually do pack a decent punch.

I tried lowering the kessil output to 25% power but I was still well over 600 par just about everywhere under the ati footprint at that point.

With kessils only I'm able to get 150-200 par on my rocks, so I'll be using that to extend my photoperiod and ramp up ramp down. I'll miss the shimmer during the day though but hopefully I just found the major stress factor for some of these tenuis. I can imagine if the par was that high and my nutrients did bottom out for a day or two that could be it.

1F5F0E9A-3D9F-43B5-BDB0-0D60C5439263.jpeg
I try to keep a consistent 200 Par on the sand bed. Due to refraction of the water turbulence, its not truly possible, but you understand. 300-400+ on the top of the scape.

I use a Apogee 210, but, sometimes question it as it doesn't do as good as the 510 within the blue spectrum.
 
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I try to keep a consistent 200 Par on the sand bed. Due to refraction of the water turbulence, its not truly possible, but you understand. 300-400+ on the top of the scape.

I use a Apogee 210, but, sometimes question it as it doesn't do as good as the 510 within the blue spectrum.
I’ll be closer to that with the kessils off. I’ll start there. Once things look good and stable Then maybe I’ll start working in the kessils for a bit of shimmer down the road, like VanDalsenReef suggested.

I’m also going to set up my algae reactor to hopefully stabilize my ph a bit more.
 
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And the loses have slowly continued. So far (knock on wood) it has just been the frag to small colony sized pieces.

ATI ICP opens on the 3rd, so I'll be sending my samples off today. They seem to take about a week to receive so that should work out about right.
 

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FTS for 2022:
FTS 1_1_2022.jpg

CSB
CSB.jpg

Algae crew (Got quite a bit of bryopsis now though)
Blenny Tomini.jpg
Powder Brown.jpg
Sailfin-2.jpg

Some wrasse:
Splendid.jpg
Ornate leopard.jpg
Lubbocks.jpg

Clowns
Female Clown.jpg
male clown-4.jpg

CBB (Still holds out for live worms)
CBB-3.jpg

Sunset anthias transitioning to male. That'll be 1.2 trio.
New honcho.jpg
Fantastic. Looks amazing. How are the acros doing?
 
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I lost my eightline in QT once I added this group of chromis. Then 2 of these guys dropped off too. These guys started on chloroquine phosphate + kanaplex 2 days ago and are now holding strong.
C3EAEA47-3BFB-458E-B486-97D44FCFF554.jpeg
 
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Fantastic. Looks amazing. How are the acros doing?
Still losing some. Currently the maleficent colony is going up in smoke.

I did a 40g water change with neo marine today and added fresh polyfilters to the sump. Hopefully I'll see an ICP result by the end of next week.
 

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Still losing some. Currently the maleficent colony is going up in smoke.

I did a 40g water change with neo marine today and added fresh polyfilters to the sump. Hopefully I'll see an ICP result by the end of next week.
Hopefully you can find an answer
 

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Not a good day for RRU Rainbow Blossom. This guy locked up on me a few months back in my 75g, started to stn and would go on/off over the last few months. Never got color back much, kinda of just a flesh color to it.

Well I saw some fresh STN a few days ago. Today, it really lit up and I'm sure would have been gone by morning.

So I pulled it and dipped it for 30 minutes in witch hazel @ 7.5ml to 1L of tank water. I stirred it every 5 minutes and sat it on the lid of my sump to hopefully help hold temp.
4ECD961A-5FEE-4EFD-ACE2-42FA7083C221.jpeg



It survived the dip and fragging. On closer inspection when I turned all white lights on for a picture I'm worried it's already toast. I feel like maybe all the polyps already rotted out, so I'm not holding out a lot of hope. My money is on a mostly white frag rack in the morning but I had to try something.

If they survive, I'll be dipping a few pieces that also went funky during that same event a few months back. Not really a fair test of witch hazel treatment since it was so far gone, but I'll update as it goes.
799CA0A1-9CC2-4D5F-8F47-5DF8462BC646.jpeg
CB1F201A-05E4-4A23-B67D-4F7966AAA163.jpeg
8EC0508B-8011-4988-98EA-582F6B137DDB.jpeg


Pictures taken under all whites of the a360we lights, all blue showed no real hope either.


My nutrients bottomed 2 days in, I tried to supplement with feeding a ton but still wasn't registering any phosphate. I've started to slowly dose neophos even though I'm not really a fan of that. I'll continue on until I get to .06-.08, continue to feed heavy and see if it will hold the value around there. Hopefully that in addition to a completely new light source are the two stressors I'm dealing with here, everything else is pretty much inline.

A note for myself of tank parameters form today:

1.025
alk 8.3
calcium 450
magnesium 1440
nitrate 5
p04 .04
Why is your phosphates low? Do you not have fish in your tanks
 

When to mix up fish meal: When was the last time you tried a different brand of food for your reef?

  • I regularly change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 42 22.0%
  • I occasionally change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 65 34.0%
  • I rarely change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 62 32.5%
  • I never change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 18 9.4%
  • Other.

    Votes: 4 2.1%
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