That’s a good idea, I never thought about adding live sand from TBS.
Nitrates were 8 and Phosphate was.02 but like I said there is a lot of algae so I’m sure that is messing with the numbers.
I’ve never heard of the Pacific mud? Where would that go in the tank? Sump?
It goes your display the tank on the rest of your sand.
Indo-Pacific Sea Farms (IPSF.com) is out of Hawaii, run by a guy named Gerald Heslinga. Part of an auquaculture and research facility.
Their 'wonder mud' is simply a small bag ... about 1/4 cup's worth ... of silt/sand/mud from their sea farm tanks. Great for a preventative addition to a tank, but if you're already battling a problem like cyano, I'd suggest more volume of sand or rock from TBS or KPS.
The other thing about IPSF is that you can't buy individual items. Instead you have to put together 'packages' of stuff like the mud, snails, hermits, amphipods, algaes, etc.
Looking at your pics, I'm going to guess that you started your tank with dry rock and dry sand...
It can take a
loonnggg time for such tanks to reach a balance. Especially for inexperienced hobbyists.
(I started my first tank, a 20g, with a 'Package' from TBS. Tank was so easy to maintain right from day 1. My second tank, a 120g, was bagged dry sand with live rock from Walt Smith. A little bit of dinos and cyano at month 3, but gone very quick and smooth from there. Still have it. Tried a 10g nano next from dry rock and dry sand. Horrid. Sterile and messy for a year before I took it down due to a move. This march I'll be setting up a 180g. Going to use live Aussie rock from TankStop, and live sand from TBS mixed with some dry bagged sand ... since I have no desire to work through a potential 4-18 month 'ugly' stage.)
You're PO4 and NO3 don't look bad at all to me ... although, yes, the GHA may be messing with them a little.
If it were my tank, I'd definitely add at least a few cups of true live sand and some true live rock ... something like a 'pico package' or 'sand and rox box' from TBS.
It may not be the whole solution, but would be a very good first step.
Then just watch and maintain the tank for 3-4 weeks.
At that point adjust or continue your plan of attack based on any changes you've seen.