- Joined
- Aug 27, 2018
- Messages
- 1,120
- Reaction score
- 2,125
Today I supplement some content about last article, put a picture, let everyone know what is a faint yellow-green, I deliberately did not wipe the tank for 4 days, in order to make everyone more convenient comparison.
Special Reminder:
1. The photo just my personal tank wall situation, you can correspond to the color of the state of the coral in the tank. I have said SPS color dark or light, they both are not wrong, if you looking for the lighter color, you can keep the nutrients lower, then the algae color of tank wall will be more light.
2. The picture is 4 days without wiping the situation, if is 2-3 days did not rub, the tank wall color will be more lighter. This is like the ATS above (ATS is used to balance nutrients), the algae will growth more and more thicker day by day, the color will more and more dark, this point everyone need to clear.
3. I have lot of Labridae, so the main tank has mostly no Aeolosoma hemprichii, except for gastropod and sailfin can eat some algae, the tank wall will always keep the algae. If your tank wall have many biological eat the algae, and eat it barely, then you should care.
4. The algae must have light enough to growth. I use the T5+LED fill light (almost can fill the tank surface), so the lighting of tank wall are abundant. However, some aquarists use the small illumination, and there is less light shining on the tank wall, at this time the algae color will effect by the less shining of tank wall, especially those downlight LEDs. In addition to lighting, the main reason is the influence of tank of nutrients, this we all know.
The nutrients can be easily divided into: organic C, nitrate N, phosphate P. Among them, phosphate can be divided into inorganic phosphorus, organic phosphorus (organic phosphorus is also a class of organic matter)
To saying about the NO3 problems: The NO3 testing is convenient, many people have encountered this problem, and on many condition this nutrient salt data almost rising and falling at the same time, so most people will judge fat or thin based on this.
Actually, NO3 just an indicator, not all of nutrients, even the NO3 are not the mainly problem, only reference index, and the more is the balance of these types of data, then balance can maintain a better health and color increase.
Briefly speaking of the tank wall problem: the nutrients balance of the above determines the type of the algae (color), which is the basis. On this basis situation, those nutrients will affect the SPS color.
Now I give a definition of what I always say about the "fat water" and "thin water": "Fat water" refers to the proportion of the above-mentioned balance of nutrients on the basis of the relative values are higher. "thin water" refers to the proportion of the above-mentioned balance of nutrients on the basis of the relative values are lower. If the nutrients are imbalance, then it can not name "fat water" or "thin water", just can name it "bad water" , just like I said the Berlin system principles saline. Here's what's new today.：The last time we talked about algae phase if there is no problem, then what is the impact of the problem? Of course, a lot.
First, let's start with simple questions : impurities
I have mentioned about this questions, after the impurities ratio exceeded, the coral will turn to the coffee color. Note, I still talking about the ratio but not content. Because the ratio always the most important. This mean that in your impurities content unchanged the "fat water" and fertilizer, the smaller the proportion of impurities, whereas the "thinner the water", the higher the proportion of the same amount of impurities.
This is also one of the reason why people's tank "thin water" but the coral still coffee color. Cause you are relying the algae tank ATS adsorption and other method to lose weight at the same time, it may not be equal to the proportion of lost impurities problem. The normal tank should be "thin water" & light color or "fat water" & dark color.
Second, the problem of excess trace elements.
Note, the trace elements I said are refers to those various elements of the agents. Typical trace elements such as TM ion water (ionized water is actually a liquid trace elements), other famous brand have these trace elements. Are these comprehensive trace elements useful? It is sure, but I always been against adding trace elements(I'm talking about the chaos plus trace elements), because trace elements is more for the health and growth of coral services. But, for the health and growth, the nutrients above are much more important than trace elements. This analogy is like you meet a refugee, this time you are sure regardless of bun or rice, you will first consider the question of whether he can eat enough (focus on more important nutrients), later talk about his health (add trace elements).
But most of aquarium hobbyist I have meet, they just start to learn the SPS, the basic idea is not clear, even the food problem is not solved, various of trace elements be add. From the color increase point of view, those comprehensive trace elements effects are not obvious, but may have side effects.
How is the side effects come from? The reason is you has add the comprehensive trace elements, but your coral's status are not necessarily good, even if the status is ok, your coral absorption are still not completely proportional, after the long time result lead to accumulation elements exceeded.
Any substance in the aquarium will have toxicity and side effects, the heavy status will burn head and peel off, until it die. The medium reaction are change to coffee color, and status is not good. The mild reaction are excess substances embodied in the form of algae, and then erupt all sorts of strange algae.
Severe reaction like Ca, Mg, K element exceed, for example, K element exceed you can understand that your water becomes a very concentrated solution of potassium chloride. Medium or mild
So, those comprehensive trace element only suit for who have experience, especially experienced lazy. They can judge some foresight problem through experience, and then make corresponding adjustment. But most of people especially newcomers, newcomers have other more serious problems, it's no distinction for you to add trace elements or not add, so I do not recommend you add trace elements.
Third: Light
I'm finally going to say something that interests everyone, before said this problem, to talk about where is the coral color coming from? In fact, a lot of information has been written, simply say:
There are symbiotic algae in the coral, when there is sufficient light, they will discharge part of the symbiotic algae, in order to self-balance of energy supply, and then the coral color fades, which is commonly known as the sun White. What will be after the spit algae? First, color turn to lighter, except for lighter, also will produce the resist glare to substance, this is one of the well-known principles of color increase. On the contrary, if the coral color light not enough, it will gather more symbiotic algae, and then display the coffee color. You can imagine some SPS on the back of the color, there is lack of light result. If there is not easy to understand, please look at the picture as below shown:
This is a coral in my friend's tank (without considering the health of the first), buy is basically the whole coffee color, 2 months later, the coral can see the light into a blue, and no light is still the place of coffee color (look carefully, the difference is extremely obvious).
This figure can be very obvious description 2 points：
The first point is the importance of adequate lighting to the outstanding. Another point is the importance of the shine.
If my friend's light shines infinitely well, can shine more current coffee color place, then obviously, now coffee color part of nature will become less, this coral will become the whole is blue.
Cause we usually are in the aquarium on the edge of appreciation, so you see is actually the side of the SPS, so a drenched lamps for SPS is very important, especially in the case of high-density feeding and large coral.
Of course, the light can not be too strong, this before I have said many articles, too strong light will only produce more side effects, such as the above Coral has had a problem, the blue part is very healthy. I just before the article has already said that the usual configuration of the case, your lamp is enough, no need to overly strengthen the power, overly lengthen the time to turn on the lights. But the role of the spectral problem is still exaggerated, because the halogen is the full spectrum, but T5 is the principle of fluorescent tubes hair color, you can go to know, he is not the full spectrum, but the actual feeding time, regardless of halogen or T5, for SPS effect is very good. As for those downlight type LED, you raise SPS, the biggest problem is the first to face the dainty problem.
Trace elements syndrome is not good, so what works? The next article will continue to complement the outstanding remaining important issues.
To be continued unfinished..........
Orginal: HeTieming
Mr. He accompany you to play with saltwater
Special Reminder:
1. The photo just my personal tank wall situation, you can correspond to the color of the state of the coral in the tank. I have said SPS color dark or light, they both are not wrong, if you looking for the lighter color, you can keep the nutrients lower, then the algae color of tank wall will be more light.
2. The picture is 4 days without wiping the situation, if is 2-3 days did not rub, the tank wall color will be more lighter. This is like the ATS above (ATS is used to balance nutrients), the algae will growth more and more thicker day by day, the color will more and more dark, this point everyone need to clear.
3. I have lot of Labridae, so the main tank has mostly no Aeolosoma hemprichii, except for gastropod and sailfin can eat some algae, the tank wall will always keep the algae. If your tank wall have many biological eat the algae, and eat it barely, then you should care.
4. The algae must have light enough to growth. I use the T5+LED fill light (almost can fill the tank surface), so the lighting of tank wall are abundant. However, some aquarists use the small illumination, and there is less light shining on the tank wall, at this time the algae color will effect by the less shining of tank wall, especially those downlight LEDs. In addition to lighting, the main reason is the influence of tank of nutrients, this we all know.
The nutrients can be easily divided into: organic C, nitrate N, phosphate P. Among them, phosphate can be divided into inorganic phosphorus, organic phosphorus (organic phosphorus is also a class of organic matter)
To saying about the NO3 problems: The NO3 testing is convenient, many people have encountered this problem, and on many condition this nutrient salt data almost rising and falling at the same time, so most people will judge fat or thin based on this.
Actually, NO3 just an indicator, not all of nutrients, even the NO3 are not the mainly problem, only reference index, and the more is the balance of these types of data, then balance can maintain a better health and color increase.
Briefly speaking of the tank wall problem: the nutrients balance of the above determines the type of the algae (color), which is the basis. On this basis situation, those nutrients will affect the SPS color.
Now I give a definition of what I always say about the "fat water" and "thin water": "Fat water" refers to the proportion of the above-mentioned balance of nutrients on the basis of the relative values are higher. "thin water" refers to the proportion of the above-mentioned balance of nutrients on the basis of the relative values are lower. If the nutrients are imbalance, then it can not name "fat water" or "thin water", just can name it "bad water" , just like I said the Berlin system principles saline. Here's what's new today.：The last time we talked about algae phase if there is no problem, then what is the impact of the problem? Of course, a lot.
First, let's start with simple questions : impurities
I have mentioned about this questions, after the impurities ratio exceeded, the coral will turn to the coffee color. Note, I still talking about the ratio but not content. Because the ratio always the most important. This mean that in your impurities content unchanged the "fat water" and fertilizer, the smaller the proportion of impurities, whereas the "thinner the water", the higher the proportion of the same amount of impurities.
This is also one of the reason why people's tank "thin water" but the coral still coffee color. Cause you are relying the algae tank ATS adsorption and other method to lose weight at the same time, it may not be equal to the proportion of lost impurities problem. The normal tank should be "thin water" & light color or "fat water" & dark color.
Second, the problem of excess trace elements.
Note, the trace elements I said are refers to those various elements of the agents. Typical trace elements such as TM ion water (ionized water is actually a liquid trace elements), other famous brand have these trace elements. Are these comprehensive trace elements useful? It is sure, but I always been against adding trace elements(I'm talking about the chaos plus trace elements), because trace elements is more for the health and growth of coral services. But, for the health and growth, the nutrients above are much more important than trace elements. This analogy is like you meet a refugee, this time you are sure regardless of bun or rice, you will first consider the question of whether he can eat enough (focus on more important nutrients), later talk about his health (add trace elements).
But most of aquarium hobbyist I have meet, they just start to learn the SPS, the basic idea is not clear, even the food problem is not solved, various of trace elements be add. From the color increase point of view, those comprehensive trace elements effects are not obvious, but may have side effects.
How is the side effects come from? The reason is you has add the comprehensive trace elements, but your coral's status are not necessarily good, even if the status is ok, your coral absorption are still not completely proportional, after the long time result lead to accumulation elements exceeded.
Any substance in the aquarium will have toxicity and side effects, the heavy status will burn head and peel off, until it die. The medium reaction are change to coffee color, and status is not good. The mild reaction are excess substances embodied in the form of algae, and then erupt all sorts of strange algae.
Severe reaction like Ca, Mg, K element exceed, for example, K element exceed you can understand that your water becomes a very concentrated solution of potassium chloride. Medium or mild
So, those comprehensive trace element only suit for who have experience, especially experienced lazy. They can judge some foresight problem through experience, and then make corresponding adjustment. But most of people especially newcomers, newcomers have other more serious problems, it's no distinction for you to add trace elements or not add, so I do not recommend you add trace elements.
Third: Light
I'm finally going to say something that interests everyone, before said this problem, to talk about where is the coral color coming from? In fact, a lot of information has been written, simply say:
There are symbiotic algae in the coral, when there is sufficient light, they will discharge part of the symbiotic algae, in order to self-balance of energy supply, and then the coral color fades, which is commonly known as the sun White. What will be after the spit algae? First, color turn to lighter, except for lighter, also will produce the resist glare to substance, this is one of the well-known principles of color increase. On the contrary, if the coral color light not enough, it will gather more symbiotic algae, and then display the coffee color. You can imagine some SPS on the back of the color, there is lack of light result. If there is not easy to understand, please look at the picture as below shown:
This is a coral in my friend's tank (without considering the health of the first), buy is basically the whole coffee color, 2 months later, the coral can see the light into a blue, and no light is still the place of coffee color (look carefully, the difference is extremely obvious).
This figure can be very obvious description 2 points：
The first point is the importance of adequate lighting to the outstanding. Another point is the importance of the shine.
If my friend's light shines infinitely well, can shine more current coffee color place, then obviously, now coffee color part of nature will become less, this coral will become the whole is blue.
Cause we usually are in the aquarium on the edge of appreciation, so you see is actually the side of the SPS, so a drenched lamps for SPS is very important, especially in the case of high-density feeding and large coral.
Of course, the light can not be too strong, this before I have said many articles, too strong light will only produce more side effects, such as the above Coral has had a problem, the blue part is very healthy. I just before the article has already said that the usual configuration of the case, your lamp is enough, no need to overly strengthen the power, overly lengthen the time to turn on the lights. But the role of the spectral problem is still exaggerated, because the halogen is the full spectrum, but T5 is the principle of fluorescent tubes hair color, you can go to know, he is not the full spectrum, but the actual feeding time, regardless of halogen or T5, for SPS effect is very good. As for those downlight type LED, you raise SPS, the biggest problem is the first to face the dainty problem.
Trace elements syndrome is not good, so what works? The next article will continue to complement the outstanding remaining important issues.
To be continued unfinished..........
Orginal: HeTieming
Mr. He accompany you to play with saltwater
