Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Get an icp test to see what’s wrong with your water.
I can tell you with a relative degree of certainty that the issue is due to low nutrients. If you’re going to run 7-8.5 dkh, keep your nitrates between 5-10ppm. Phosphates should be between .03-.1ppm. It looks like stn to me. This is how you prevent it. Just remember, a tank that’s too clean is a sterile tank.
Hydra 26’s can keep sps, including acros just fine. Lighting is VERY RARELY the problem when it comes to losing sps frags, especially when there’s tissue loss at the bottom. For reference, I’ve seen acros do fine, albeit growing slowly on 80 par. The real killers are parameter swings. This can kill corals very quickly. The other is starvation by over maintaining your tank and stripping too many nutrients from the water column. This tends to kill corals over a period of days to a few weeks.
Everything looks pretty good. Consider letting alk fall to 7.5 ish. It will be interesting to see what Icp testing finds. What brand test did you use?
I don’t think lighting is an issue. I have primes over my tank. I started experiencing success when I stopped chasing the alk ghost keeping my alk between 10 and 11 dkh. In fact, anytime my alk was over 8.5 all growth stopped in my tank. My alk averages between 7.9 and 8.3. I’ve gone periods of time within 7.2. But that’s when I could see actual growth (encrusting, new coralites, etc...). I am constantly fragging the green slimer so be careful what you wish for.Hydra 26’s can keep sps, including acros just fine. Lighting is VERY RARELY the problem when it comes to losing sps frags, especially when there’s tissue loss at the bottom. For reference, I’ve seen acros do fine, albeit growing slowly on 80 par. The real killers are parameter swings. This can kill corals very quickly. The other is starvation by over maintaining your tank and stripping too many nutrients from the water column. This tends to kill corals over a period of days to a few weeks.
I would. I and a lot of other people here have gone through the exact same thing after carbon dosing or running an algae scrubber/refugium too aggressively and stripping our tanks of resources. I’ve always had problems with nitrates under 5ppm and now I keep them at 10ppm. It just makes things way easier. You’ll find a balance between having healthy coral and not having nuisance algae, it just takes a little hunting to find that range for your individual tank. Personally, i’d add a little bit of nitrates (I’ve used seachem nitrogen) to get a 1ppm increase and test the next day.So I should raise my No3 ?
Same here for me. I run my tank at 7.4 dkh because for some weird reason, it wants to run at 7.4 dkh. I’m seeing far better growth than I ever saw back when I tried to maintain 8.1 dkh.I don’t think lighting is an issue. I have primes over my tank. I started experiencing success when I stopped chasing the alk ghost keeping my alk between 10 and 11 dkh. In fact, anytime my alk was over 8.5 all growth stopped in my tank. My alk averages between 7.9 and 8.3. I’ve gone periods of time within 7.2. But that’s when I could see actual growth (encrusting, new coralites, etc...). I am constantly fragging the green slimer so be careful what you wish for.
I don’t think lighting is an issue. I have primes over my tank. I started experiencing success when I stopped chasing the alk ghost keeping my alk between 10 and 11 dkh. In fact, anytime my alk was over 8.5 all growth stopped in my tank. My alk averages between 7.9 and 8.3. I’ve gone periods of time within 7.2. But that’s when I could see actual growth (encrusting, new coralites, etc...). I am constantly fragging the green slimer so be careful what you wish for.
I would. I and a lot of other people here have gone through the exact same thing after carbon dosing or running an algae scrubber/refugium too aggressively and stripping our tanks of resources. I’ve always had problems with nitrates under 5ppm and now I keep them at 10ppm. It just makes things way easier. You’ll find a balance between having healthy coral and not having nuisance algae, it just takes a little hunting to find that range for your individual tank. Personally, i’d add a little bit of nitrates (I’ve used seachem nitrogen) to get a 1ppm increase and test the next day.
Same here for me. I run my tank at 7.4 dkh because for some weird reason, it wants to run at 7.4 dkh. I’m seeing far better growth than I ever saw back when I tried to maintain 8.1 dkh.
@nanchil, do you have coraline algae growing in your tank?
The reason I ask is that is a good sign that your tank is ready for coral. If you don't have it, it doesn't mean you can't have coral, just an indicator.
I disagree that it couldn't be the light. We know nothing about your light setup, only the type of lights you have.
The more things you add to your tank such as NoPoX, dosing various other elements and nutrients, and substances to control things, the more things can go wrong.
I really have no idea what you are changing in your tank, but it sounds like you are making a lot of changes and then saying your tank is stable because you are able to keep ALK around 8.0. There is more to stability than that.
Thanks. The last changes i made was like 3 months back. For the last two to three months i haven't changed or added anything to the tank. I stopped NOPOX and chemipure when I was asked by the members here. In fact I am not adding anything except BRS Alk and BRS Ca. The light schedule I am following Saxby settings. The Alk is stable for more than 2 months. Been testing Alk daily basis for the last 3 months. And yes I have Coraline all over the tank and rocks.
How about some pictures of your current tank and setup.
How about a list of your current equipment in use. GFO? Anything else? Current stocking list? Did you ever rent a PAR meter?