Starting Brightwell Phospahte E today need advice.

Zeal

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Phosphate currently at 1 starting to panic. phosphate E is coming in today so I’ll be dosing it today.

Should I dose it near the filter or into the filter pad?
 

Saltyreef

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Hey! its me! from your other thread! Last we saw your phosphate is at .1ppm not 1ppm

You may be better off putting the chemipure elite back in your tank and letting the GFO it contains slowly bring your phosphate down to .02 - .04ppm.
Just a thought to save some $$ and stress.
 

Montiman

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I have used Phosphate E myself and would agree that it may not be the best option in your case. It is much better at reducing really high levels not moderately low levels like you have.

I have never dosed any lanthanum product into a filter sock. Always directly into the display tank and I have never had issues. I would never ever dose more lanthanum than would decrease phosphate by greater than .5ppm in 1 day. I know many people who have killed live stock by exceeding this dose.
 
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Zeal

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Hey! its me! from your other thread! Last we saw your phosphate is at .1ppm not 1ppm

You may be better off putting the chemipure elite back in your tank and letting the GFO it contains slowly bring your phosphate down to .02 - .04ppm.
Just a thought to save some $$ and stress.
I’m running chemipure elite
 
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Zeal

Zeal

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at this point idk what to do. BRS among other people recommended Phosphate E, even if I dose half a ML to bring it down just a bit then keep running chemipure elite to hold it I’ll be happy.
 

amoore311

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I'm not sure why people are saying lanthanum isn't good to deal with lower levels of phosphate. I've been dosing it just fine and my phospates don't ever get over .1-.2

I dose it directly into the neck of my protein skimmer. You want to dose it near whatever your best means of mechanical filtration.

If you have an overflow that leads to a filter pad or sock, dose it right into your overflow box.


There's also no reason to get "scared". High Phosphates are not going to kill anything.
 

Saltyreef

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Sorry, I was under the impression you removed it. Maybe theres not enough gfo in it to help. Usually about 1/8th cup gfo in my 40g is enough to bring levels down after a few days and then i simply remove the bag.
I wouldnt be nervous to use the brightwell product. Just try about 1/4 of recommended dosage first and test phosphate after the stated removal time.
 
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Zeal

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I'm not sure why people are saying lanthanum isn't good to deal with lower levels of phosphate. I've been dosing it just fine and my phospates don't ever get over .1-.2

I dose it directly into the neck of my protein skimmer. You want to dose it near whatever your best means of mechanical filtration.

If you have an overflow that leads to a filter pad or sock, dose it right into your overflow box.


There's also no reason to get "scared". High Phosphates are not going to kill anything.
Im seeing tiny bits of Dinos in my tank. Check previous thread:)

Im going to dose it directly into my skimmer or media basket, since I have a AIO tank
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Im seeing tiny bits of Dinos in my tank. Check previous thread:)

Im going to dose it directly into my skimmer or media basket, since I have a AIO tank

Be very careful. Lowering phosphate too much may make the dinos worse which is a far worse problem than elevated phosphate.
 

ArmyReefer

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Be very careful. Lowering phosphate too much may make the dinos worse which is a far worse problem than elevated phosphate.
Randy

this post is a little old but could I get some clarification on your above statement please? I got Dino's about a month ago and have been fighting them ever since. understanding that water changes only fuel Dinos I have not done a water change in 2 months. (normally do monthly) when Dino's broke out in my tank my levels were at Phosphate .07 and Nitrates were at 5. They are now .18 and 12. In the beginning I lowered my lighting period and took all whites out while I tried dosing microbacter 7. (kept getting worse) then I started dosing Dino X with manual removal into my a sock in my sump every day. (not getting worse, but does not seem to be doing much). Now I decided to raise my temperature in my tank from 79 to 82. It has been at 82 now for almost 48 hours (cant tell if its having an effect yet). But a lot of my corals are looking unhappy, my acros have browned out, and I can only attribute this to the jump in phosphate (my tank has never been this hight before). Since I am trying temperature now, I thought it would be safe to bring down my phosphate to .07-.01 which Is where I like to keep it. With so much info out there on Dino's I honestly don't know what to do to make sure my nutrients don't keep rising.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Randy

this post is a little old but could I get some clarification on your above statement please? I got Dino's about a month ago and have been fighting them ever since. understanding that water changes only fuel Dinos I have not done a water change in 2 months. (normally do monthly) when Dino's broke out in my tank my levels were at Phosphate .07 and Nitrates were at 5. They are now .18 and 12. In the beginning I lowered my lighting period and took all whites out while I tried dosing microbacter 7. (kept getting worse) then I started dosing Dino X with manual removal into my a sock in my sump every day. (not getting worse, but does not seem to be doing much). Now I decided to raise my temperature in my tank from 79 to 82. It has been at 82 now for almost 48 hours (cant tell if its having an effect yet). But a lot of my corals are looking unhappy, my acros have browned out, and I can only attribute this to the jump in phosphate (my tank has never been this hight before). Since I am trying temperature now, I thought it would be safe to bring down my phosphate to .07-.01 which Is where I like to keep it. With so much info out there on Dino's I honestly don't know what to do to make sure my nutrients don't keep rising.

My concern with dinos is low nutrients, not high. That seems to be a condition that allows them to thrive, maybe because some other organism that normally out-competes then (like maybe green algae) cannot do so at low nutrient levels.
 

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