^^Agreed. Dump em in. I thought they ate dinos... I say add em all. They'll definitely still be there when you're done with your battle. I had similiar worries at one time
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my livestock are doing great fish are fat and healthy. corals are growing. just disgusting to see. with the new tank I'm going to be making sure I keep a close eye on my po4 and no3 in the beginning.I don’t know for sure but I don’t think pods die from the Dinos. I saw them cleaning my glass when I had them. I still have pods and the Dino are gone. Dino is definitely ugly, as far as I can tell I’ve not lost any livestock to them.
I've dosed tigger pods twice now. haven't committed to spending $40 on shipping from algae barn so been buying the pods from my lfs.^^Agreed. Dump em in. I thought they ate dinos... I say add em all. They'll definitely still be there when you're done with your battle. I had similiar worries at one time
Omg the money I spent on pods from AB and my LFS....coulda had a better setup! lol I can't hate tho, maybe it got me through the ugly stage (although I was trying a lot of different things at that time so who knows exactly). You can definitely culture them pretty easy tho. I did that for about a few months using the tigger pods from reefnutritionI've dosed tigger pods twice now. haven't committed to spending $40 on shipping from algae barn so been buying the pods from my lfs.
thanks for the link. will take a look into it. I already culture phyto.Omg the money I spent on pods from AB and my LFS....coulda had a better setup! lol I can't hate tho, maybe it got me through the ugly stage (although I was trying a lot of different things at that time so who knows exactly). You can definitely culture them pretty easy tho. I did that for about a few months using the tigger pods from reefnutrition
these helped with that
Culturing Tigger-Pods®
How to culture Reef Nutrition Tigger-Pods® - Live, large, red Tigriopus californicus copepods Materials Culture container We recommend at least 2 culture vessels in case one has issues. The vessels can be a 5 or 10 gallon aquarium, Tupperware container, etc. that holds water. Deep containers...reefnutrition.com
Raising Live Rotifers & Copepods
An article describes in depth how to raise rotifers and copepods (Tigriopus Californicus) as a live food source for your reef tank, especially mandarin gobys.www.brineshrimpdirect.com
Just a heads up, you will also be transferring the Dinos to the new tank. No way around it that I know of.my only issue right now anyway is that I'm literally transferring all this stuff to a 40g in a month. if anything I'll buy pods to seed the new tank.
dry rock. I'm ready for the uglies. and honestly the dinos don't grow much on my rocks. it's mostly in my sand bed. very minimal dinos on the rocks.Just a heads up, you will also be transferring the Dinos to the new tank. No way around it that I know of.
What rock will you be adding to the 40?
sand isnt getting transfered. I'm using new sand.Just a heads up, you will also be transferring the Dinos to the new tank. No way around it that I know of.
What rock will you be adding to the 40?
If it was me, I would not add sand at all to the new setup. Make sure the Dinos are gone and everything stabilized. Then add the sand later. Why? IMO sand is a breeding ground for Dinos.sand isnt getting transfered. I'm using new sand.
This is an interesting approach. Especially if they're the type that retreat into the sandbed at night... Not a bad Idea!If it was me, I would not add sand at all to the new setup. Make sure the Dinos are gone and everything stabilized. Then add the sand later. Why? IMO sand is a breeding ground for Dinos.
my only thought with adding sand after is that it actually may throw off things. if the tank is established and then I add sand won't that mess with the stability of the tank from that point on? and I anticipate that I may get dinos, but I feel like if I everything is cleaned before the new tank and I don't let phosphates or nitrates drop after it's cycled I feel like the dinos shouldn't populate to the point theyre at now.If it was me, I would not add sand at all to the new setup. Make sure the Dinos are gone and everything stabilized. Then add the sand later. Why? IMO sand is a breeding ground for Dinos.
I wouldn’t sweat the dinos then. Just start the new tank and move your livestock over.new tank coming this month. moving to a 40g. I don't like this small tank. parameters are just difficult to keep in check.
moreso doing this as a learning experience.I wouldn’t sweat the dinos then. Just start the new tank and move your livestock over.
Just install a strong UV , Dino will be goneokay so I've read so many threads on dinos.
my current parameters are
.05 po4
5 nitrate
1.025 salinity
8.5 alk
430 calcium
I have been dosing mb7 and seachem pristine on opposing days. I run uv sterilizer at night (free floating dinos). my lights arent on that strong (250 par at the top of the tank)
I did a blackout a few weeks ago. I dosed hydrogen peroxide during that time.
I clean the tank daily and remove filter floss.
still cannot for the life of me figure out why I haven't seen a reduction in dinos despite this.
it hasn't been a short amount of time either. I know this can take a while to figure out, but I assumed by now I would have less buildup. they seem a bit less stringy now, but that's about it.
any advice would be appreciated. I'm not defeated, but just hate having to clean like crazy daily.
No issues from the temp increase. I also shut down my Blue led bars and only ran T5, which is contrary to a lot of the advice I read about running only blues. Dino’s tended to grow on the glass with the LED bars.were corals irritated? what about fish? thanks!
thanks. I am actually starting to get hair algae currently. and I will update here tomorrow when my microscope comes in. my wife cleaned the tank for me today so I cant snag a picture today..05 PO4 is the issue.
That needs to come up to around 0.1 or higher.
The idea behind increasing nutrients is to grow algae to outcomepte the dinos for space. Yoiur not going to grow much algae at .05. If you read the massive dino thread, you'll see this is the typical recommendation.
Depending on the test kit your using, that .05 may very well be within the margin of error for the test and actually still be 0.
Are you sure it's dino's and not cyano? By the description of it not being on your rock and only the sandbed, I wonder if it's dino's at all?
Dino's typically cover everything, and do not just stay on the sandbed. Cyano on the other hand, can and will stay on the sandbed if your sandbed is a nutrient sink.
I've dealt with every form of dino's over the years, that's how I know how to treat them.
Pics of the tank would help get a correct ID. And if it is truly dino's, the microscope will get a proper ID on the type, and then you can form a battle plan.
While vetteguy usually give solid info, I completely disagree with his assessment of dino therapy.
yeah I get them on the glass, takes a few days to populate there though.No issues from the temp increase. I also shut down my Blue led bars and only ran T5, which is contrary to a lot of the advice I read about running only blues. Dino’s tended to grow on the glass with the LED bars.
I have one that supposedly should be plenty powerful for my tank but it hasn't resulted in much of a difference. I think mine retreat into the sand at night.Just install a strong UV , Dino will be gone