Stocking list for a 75 Gallon

[Stblindtiger]

I currently have a 75 Gallon tank that has been cycling since Jan 1st. I added sand that I received when I bought my tank from the previous owner 18 days ago. The sand was dry, but I would imagine that some bacteria still survived. I also added a single Live Rock from Petco, as well as 5 lbs of new live sand. I ordered 2 Maroon Gold Stripe Clown fish, and the smallest Clean Up Crew that Dr Reef's Quarantined fish offered. The Clown fish are still being quarantined, and I don't expect to receive the clown fish, or clean up crew for at least another week, possibly 2 more weeks. The Clean up Crew will consist of 2 Cerith snails, 3 Nassarius snails, 2 Margarite snails, and 3 Nerite snails. So as of now the tank is cycled (still some ammonia present, but I have Nitrites and Nitrates present) and empty, but I have 2 Gold Stripe Maroon clownfish and a small clean up crew to be added whenever they are shipped to me.

I added a jar of AlgaeBarn's live Copepods (Poseidon's Feast) last week and have been dosing the tank daily with live photoplankton (Ocean Magik).

I also have a 32 ounce bottle of Fritz Aquatics 9 Nitrifying Bacteria for Salt water aquariums on hand right now which I was going to add to the tank prior to adding the fish and CUC just in case.

This is all of the equipment I am currently using, and the potential stocking list for my tank:

Equipment List:
Aquarium: Used 75 Gallon
Cabinet: Custom made Wood Stand that came with Aquarium
Lighting: Woino 36 Watt 216 RGB LED with Timer
Filter1: Used Marineland Penguin 350b Double Biowheel
Filter2: Used Rena Filstar xp 2 Canister filter
Heater: 2 Hitop 100-Watt Adjustable Heaters
Skimmer: IOAOI Hang on Protein Skimmer for tank up to 80 Gallons
Wavemaker: 2 Hygger 2100 GPH Magnetic Powerheads
40 lbs of Nature's Ocean Coral Base Rock
1 Medium Piece of CaribSea Original Life Rock
4 Small Pieces of Imagitarium Red Lava Rock
Salt: Red Sea Fish Pharm Coral Pro Marine Salt
RO Filter: Max Water 6 Stage 100 GPD RODI System

Livestock List:
AlgaeBarn's Poseidon's Feast (Live Copepods)
Daily dose of AlgaeBarn's Ocean Magik (Live Phytoplankton)
2 Maroon Gold Stripe Clownfish (future addition)
CUC: 2 Cerith snails, 3 Nassarius snails, 2 Margarite snails, and 3 Nerite snails (Future Addition)
Bubble Tip Sea Anemone (future addition)
Royal Gramma (future addition)
Yellow Tang (future addition)
Tailspot Blenny (future addition)
Blue green Mandarin (future addition)
Paired Wheeler Goby and Pistol Shrimp (future addition)
Six line Wrasse (Future Addition)
Zoas (future addition)
Hammer coral (future addition)
Torch Coral (Future addition)
Acropora Coral (Future Addition)
Linckia Blue Starfish (Future Addition)
Maxima Blue Clam (Future Addition)

Do you see any potential issues? Is this stocking list a little too big for a 75 gallon tank? I know the 75 gallon mark is right on the limit of what's needed for a yellow tang, but would I would still like to include one....

 

[thedon986]

I had a tailspot and my yellow and tomini tang bullied it a bit. Make sure you have plenty of hiding spaces if you must. I might avoid that one for a larger fish.

 

[th365thli]

If you're talking about size of tank, you're probably fine if you get a small yellow tang to start out with.

If you're talking about bio-load, you're probably also fine as your fish count isn't that large imo. Especially if you pack your canister filter with bio balls. You also have rock in the tank and sand which will house the bulk of bacteria. I would definitely get a hanna phosphate checker to monitor your phosphate import/export. If your phosphates are still high after a few months then consider adding a hang on back refugium or algae reactor, or upping water changes.

Tangs can be jerks so add it last, it will be the dominant fish. Six lines can be annoying to other fish as well. You are seeding with pods which is good, but don't underestimate how many pods a mandarin can eat. Ideally you want one from the LFS that is eating frozen, or you'll want to try and transition one to eat frozen asap. They can seriously clean out your tank. Tailspots look great, I found lawnmowers better for algae eating, just throwing that out there.

You most likely can support a LOT more snails or CUC. Do it slowly and as needed. I recommend hermit crabs (the small ones like blue leg etc.). I'm a huge proponent of micro bio-diversity in tanks, I think the more stages of exportation the more stable and happy a tank is. So go to reefcleaners or your lfs and see what's good. I find inverts to be just as fun as adding fish.

I've never heard of your light so make sure it puts out enough par for your future Acro. Same with the Maxima, it needs sps level lighting. Euphylias like hammers and torches generally like low to moderate flow and lower lighting. So if you're mixing LPS with SPS just be aware they have different requirements. Make sure your tank has high flow area and lower flow areas, but no stagnant areas. It's a balancing act. Most likely you will be continually adjusting your powerheads. And if you're gonna be doing sps and clams, recommend calcium and alkalinity test kits.

For reference I'm running a 65 which is PACKED with fish and coral and live rock, would shock some people on here. But they're all fat, eating, and lively. I started with mostly dry rock and now you can't tell with all the growth, critters, and coralline algae. I'm also running a 20 gallon sump with a fairly large refugium full of chaeto which helps with phosphate exportation. For you, exportation would be water changes and whatever algae is in your tank, so something to consider.

 

[Stblindtiger]

If you're talking about size of tank, you're probably fine if you get a small yellow tang to start out with.

If you're talking about bio-load, you're probably also fine as your fish count isn't that large imo. Especially if you pack your canister filter with bio balls. You also have rock in the tank and sand which will house the bulk of bacteria. I would definitely get a hanna phosphate checker to monitor your phosphate import/export. If your phosphates are still high after a few months then consider adding a hang on back refugium or algae reactor, or upping water changes.

Tangs can be jerks so add it last, it will be the dominant fish. Six lines can be annoying to other fish as well. You are seeding with pods which is good, but don't underestimate how many pods a mandarin can eat. Ideally you want one from the LFS that is eating frozen, or you'll want to try and transition one to eat frozen asap. They can seriously clean out your tank. Tailspots look great, I found lawnmowers better for algae eating, just throwing that out there.

You most likely can support a LOT more snails or CUC. Do it slowly and as needed. I recommend hermit crabs (the small ones like blue leg etc.). I'm a huge proponent of micro bio-diversity in tanks, I think the more stages of exportation the more stable and happy a tank is. So go to reefcleaners or your lfs and see what's good. I find inverts to be just as fun as adding fish.

I've never heard of your light so make sure it puts out enough par for your future Acro. Same with the Maxima, it needs sps level lighting. Euphylias like hammers and torches generally like low to moderate flow and lower lighting. So if you're mixing LPS with SPS just be aware they have different requirements. Make sure your tank has high flow area and lower flow areas, but no stagnant areas. It's a balancing act. Most likely you will be continually adjusting your powerheads. And if you're gonna be doing sps and clams, recommend calcium and alkalinity test kits.

For reference I'm running a 65 which is PACKED with fish and coral and live rock, would shock some people on here. But they're all fat, eating, and lively. I started with mostly dry rock and now you can't tell with all the growth, critters, and coralline algae. I'm also running a 20 gallon sump with a fairly large refugium full of chaeto which helps with phosphate exportation. For you, exportation would be water changes and whatever algae is in your tank, so something to consider.

The light I have is a 4 foot (sliding brackets on each end) LED light that I bought on Amazon. It is definitely something that worries me the more and more I research and learn about having a Saltwater Aquarium. Do I have it high enough with it just sitting on the glass, or should I build a canopy and hang it inside? What are the PAR values in different areas of my tank? Etc.... I also keep wishing that I knew what a sump was when I started setting up my tank! I have a 29 gallon tank that I am going to reseal and then use as a quarantine, but I think that is too big to fit under my current stand. Might have to look at buying another smaller tank to make a sump to hold my skimmer, heater, and possibly a refugium.

I thought my tank was already pretty much cycled, but then I checked my Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate levels yesterday after noticing a new algae growth and the Nitrate levels are through the roof right now. I switched the power supply to a battery backup pack and forgot to reset the timer on my light the other day. So the light was on all 24 hours for about 3 days, and now I'm starting to get my first algae outbreak. With all that light, and all the Nitrates, I guess I should have expected that! Will the Nitrates naturally go back down? They are about half way between 50 and 100 (75/80?) according to my API test.

I am currently running a cannister filter and a hang on the back bio-wheel filter both at the same time because that is what came with the tank when I bought it. I'm thinking that is probably a bit overkill, and that they might have used the hang on the back biowheel to hold Chaeto???? Is a Penguin 350 double biowheel filter big enough to be used as a Chaeto refugium if I take all the filter material out of the back of it?

 

[th365thli]

The light I have is a 4 foot (sliding brackets on each end) LED light that I bought on Amazon. It is definitely something that worries me the more and more I research and learn about having a Saltwater Aquarium. Do I have it high enough with it just sitting on the glass, or should I build a canopy and hang it inside? What are the PAR values in different areas of my tank? Etc.... I also keep wishing that I knew what a sump was when I started setting up my tank! I have a 29 gallon tank that I am going to reseal and then use as a quarantine, but I think that is too big to fit under my current stand. Might have to look at buying another smaller tank to make a sump to hold my skimmer, heater, and possibly a refugium.

I thought my tank was already pretty much cycled, but then I checked my Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate levels yesterday after noticing a new algae growth and the Nitrate levels are through the roof right now. I switched the power supply to a battery backup pack and forgot to reset the timer on my light the other day. So the light was on all 24 hours for about 3 days, and now I'm starting to get my first algae outbreak. With all that light, and all the Nitrates, I guess I should have expected that! Will the Nitrates naturally go back down? They are about half way between 50 and 100 (75/80?) according to my API test.

I am currently running a cannister filter and a hang on the back bio-wheel filter both at the same time because that is what came with the tank when I bought it. I'm thinking that is probably a bit overkill, and that they might have used the hang on the back biowheel to hold Chaeto???? Is a Penguin 350 double biowheel filter big enough to be used as a Chaeto refugium if I take all the filter material out of the back of it?

There's a lot to unpack here but I'll try my best to provide my opinions. I'm nowhere near an expert as some of the people here, but I can provide what worked for me.

I'm not sure about your light situation. First, are you keeping corals? Lighting matters if you're keeping corals. If you are:

The issue with buying cheaper lights from Amazon is not all provide PAR charts. And they may not be super accurate. This is why people pay the big bucks for name brands because they are proven reliable and provide appropriate PAR levels for coral. They will also provide PAR information.

That's not to say you can't get good lights from Amazon. I've been using two of these for my 3 foot long 65 and they've been working great for my lps and softy tank. You'll want something more legit for SPS though.

Your two options are:
1. Buy a PAR meter. It's probably good to have one just in case. Test your current lights. It's not just PAR, but you probably also want to make sure you get a proper blue/white ratio. The Amazon lights I linked above and name brand lights have spectrum adjustments. Corals need blue light.

2. Just go ahead and buy new lights. Also not a bad option, for piece of mind. I also like the look of mounted lights on the frame or from the ceiling better. Just my personal opinion.

3. Roll the dice. Hope your current setup is good enough for corals (assuming the product description is lacking). Don't recommend this. Don't spend hundreds of dollars on corals and have them start dying cuz your light is insufficient.

A 20 gallon sump should be sufficient for you needs. See if your stand can hold a 20 gallon long tank. A 20 gallon regular could work but I like the extra space. Then, you can buy a refugium kit like this from ebay

You'll need to silicone it, so it's gonna be DIY, but you can customize each chamber size to your liking. One thing to make sure is that your stand can actually hold the equipment. I almost f'd up because I realized the stand inside wasn't tall enough for in sump skimmers. Except for ONE which was the Bubble Magus curve 3ex. Whew

You'll need to either drill overflow holes in the tank or buy an overflow box like the on I use. You'll probably want to buy an air pump to help with the siphon.

This is getting too long, you can DM me for the details of my build, because my situation was very similar to yours. Used 65 with a stand a cabinet that could hold a 20 gallon long.

How are you cycling? With ammonia or food? The nitrates are coming from somewhere. Reduce your seeding and do a water change. The fact your getting algae means your close or there. Do a water change, retest. Wait a week, do another test. If levels stay good you're ready to add fish. Add ammonia or food minimally during this period.

Use the canister filter until you get a sump up and running (if you choose to go that route). Make sure you have bio balls in your canister. Once you have a sump, you can seed it with the bio balls. Most of your beneficial bacteria should be on your rock anyways. Ditch the bio wheel. It's too small for a proper fuge imo.

I highly recommend a sump. It's not strictly necessary but it makes life easier in my opinion. I HATE cannister filters, not because they're bad at filtering (they're quite good), but cleaning one is such a pain, compared to the relative ease of changing out filter socks and scooping out chaeto from a sump.

 

[Fishfreak2009]

If you're talking about size of tank, you're probably fine if you get a small yellow tang to start out with.

If you're talking about bio-load, you're probably also fine as your fish count isn't that large imo. Especially if you pack your canister filter with bio balls. You also have rock in the tank and sand which will house the bulk of bacteria. I would definitely get a hanna phosphate checker to monitor your phosphate import/export. If your phosphates are still high after a few months then consider adding a hang on back refugium or algae reactor, or upping water changes.

Tangs can be jerks so add it last, it will be the dominant fish. Six lines can be annoying to other fish as well. You are seeding with pods which is good, but don't underestimate how many pods a mandarin can eat. Ideally you want one from the LFS that is eating frozen, or you'll want to try and transition one to eat frozen asap. They can seriously clean out your tank. Tailspots look great, I found lawnmowers better for algae eating, just throwing that out there.

You most likely can support a LOT more snails or CUC. Do it slowly and as needed. I recommend hermit crabs (the small ones like blue leg etc.). I'm a huge proponent of micro bio-diversity in tanks, I think the more stages of exportation the more stable and happy a tank is. So go to reefcleaners or your lfs and see what's good. I find inverts to be just as fun as adding fish.

I've never heard of your light so make sure it puts out enough par for your future Acro. Same with the Maxima, it needs sps level lighting. Euphylias like hammers and torches generally like low to moderate flow and lower lighting. So if you're mixing LPS with SPS just be aware they have different requirements. Make sure your tank has high flow area and lower flow areas, but no stagnant areas. It's a balancing act. Most likely you will be continually adjusting your powerheads. And if you're gonna be doing sps and clams, recommend calcium and alkalinity test kits.

For reference I'm running a 65 which is PACKED with fish and coral and live rock, would shock some people on here. But they're all fat, eating, and lively. I started with mostly dry rock and now you can't tell with all the growth, critters, and coralline algae. I'm also running a 20 gallon sump with a fairly large refugium full of chaeto which helps with phosphate exportation. For you, exportation would be water changes and whatever algae is in your tank, so something to consider.

Totally agree with this! My 75 is extremely heavily stocked (as are all my tanks), but with a decent sized fuge, an oversized skimmer, vodka dosing, and a weekly 10 gallon water change, I keep things under control.

Feel free to check out my 75 gallon build thread for inspiration! I'm actually going to be upgrading it into a 100 gallon in the next couple months.

Build Thread - Fishfreak2009's 75 Gallon Mixed Reef

So my wife and I couldn't stay away from the hobby. I used to have a few different tanks, a 380 gallon FOWLR, a 180 gallon FOWLR, a 187 gallon FOWLR, a 75 gallon FOWLR, 13.5 gallon macro tank and a 110 gallon reef. After moving and having some various issues (stand broke on the 110 gallon reef...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Stblindtiger]

There's a lot to unpack here but I'll try my best to provide my opinions. I'm nowhere near an expert as some of the people here, but I can provide what worked for me.

I'm not sure about your light situation. First, are you keeping corals? Lighting matters if you're keeping corals. If you are:

The issue with buying cheaper lights from Amazon is not all provide PAR charts. And they may not be super accurate. This is why people pay the big bucks for name brands because they are proven reliable and provide appropriate PAR levels for coral. They will also provide PAR information.

That's not to say you can't get good lights from Amazon. I've been using two of these for my 3 foot long 65 and they've been working great for my lps and softy tank. You'll want something more legit for SPS though.

Your two options are:
1. Buy a PAR meter. It's probably good to have one just in case. Test your current lights. It's not just PAR, but you probably also want to make sure you get a proper blue/white ratio. The Amazon lights I linked above and name brand lights have spectrum adjustments. Corals need blue light.

2. Just go ahead and buy new lights. Also not a bad option, for piece of mind. I also like the look of mounted lights on the frame or from the ceiling better. Just my personal opinion.

3. Roll the dice. Hope your current setup is good enough for corals (assuming the product description is lacking). Don't recommend this. Don't spend hundreds of dollars on corals and have them start dying cuz your light is insufficient.

A 20 gallon sump should be sufficient for you needs. See if your stand can hold a 20 gallon long tank. A 20 gallon regular could work but I like the extra space. Then, you can buy a refugium kit like this from ebay

You'll need to silicone it, so it's gonna be DIY, but you can customize each chamber size to your liking. One thing to make sure is that your stand can actually hold the equipment. I almost f'd up because I realized the stand inside wasn't tall enough for in sump skimmers. Except for ONE which was the Bubble Magus curve 3ex. Whew

You'll need to either drill overflow holes in the tank or buy an overflow box like the on I use. You'll probably want to buy an air pump to help with the siphon.

This is getting too long, you can DM me for the details of my build, because my situation was very similar to yours. Used 65 with a stand a cabinet that could hold a 20 gallon long.

How are you cycling? With ammonia or food? The nitrates are coming from somewhere. Reduce your seeding and do a water change. The fact your getting algae means your close or there. Do a water change, retest. Wait a week, do another test. If levels stay good you're ready to add fish. Add ammonia or food minimally during this period.

Use the canister filter until you get a sump up and running (if you choose to go that route). Make sure you have bio balls in your canister. Once you have a sump, you can seed it with the bio balls. Most of your beneficial bacteria should be on your rock anyways. Ditch the bio wheel. It's too small for a proper fuge imo.

I highly recommend a sump. It's not strictly necessary but it makes life easier in my opinion. I HATE cannister filters, not because they're bad at filtering (they're quite good), but cleaning one is such a pain, compared to the relative ease of changing out filter socks and scooping out chaeto from a sump.

Well I found a 20 gallon sump on Facebook marketplace, rinsed it out a bit, and added it to my tank. I have an order in to Dr Reef’s quarantined fish for two clownfish, so I have been trying to get everything up and running before that order arrives.

The sump couldn’t fit through the doorway of the stand so I had to drain the tank, remove all the rock and some of the sand and slide the tank out of the way so I could drop in the “new” sump.

I was able to get everything set up, but in a misguided effort to save some water, I only did about a 50% water change. I also added an additional 20 lbs of baserock, and removed the 4 pieces of lava rock that I had in there. It just wasn’t worth the “risk” of it adding metals to my water and having to deal with that issue later on down the road.

After getting everything running I did a water check and of course my nitrates were still a bit high (around 30). So I plan on doing another water change after work today (25 gallons), and possibly one more this weekend just to get the Nitrates back down to a more manageable level before my first fish arrive Thursday of next week.

I’m not adding any coral for at least another month or two so I’m going to hold off on switching g out the lights. The new aqua scape I put together has more levels where I can play around with placements, so I’m hoping that can help too.

 

[dedragon]

The only problems i see right now would be the sump and the light being used. The sump looks to be a diy sump using a tank that had a rim. If it is, removing the rim is gonna cause problems overtime as those tanks usually have thin glass. Over time the glass will begin to bow and can either cause the sump to crack or the silicone on the edges to come off and then leak. Im not certain that is what was done with the sump from the pictures but should be easy to tell if this was done in person, so let us know.

The light is nowhere near strong enough for a clam or an anemone so you will either have to replace the light or add on additional lights like 3x orphek or3 or quanta reef, or maybe 2x ai blade if you wanted to try a brand new light. If you wanted to replace it entirely (which is honestly the best way to go) there are budget options like 2x smatfarm g5 or 2x noopsyche k7 pro iii

 

[Stblindtiger]

The only problems i see right now would be the sump and the light being used. The sump looks to be a diy sump using a tank that had a rim. If it is, removing the rim is gonna cause problems overtime as those tanks usually have thin glass. Over time the glass will begin to bow and can either cause the sump to crack or the silicone on the edges to come off and then leak. Im not certain that is what was done with the sump from the pictures but should be easy to tell if this was done in person, so let us know.

The light is nowhere near strong enough for a clam or an anemone so you will either have to replace the light or add on additional lights like 3x orphek or3 or quanta reef, or maybe 2x ai blade if you wanted to try a brand new light. If you wanted to replace it entirely (which is honestly the best way to go) there are budget options like 2x smatfarm g5 or 2x noopsyche k7 pro iii

Thanks for replying!

Thankfully, the sump was not an old tank with the rim taken off. The previous owner had it made out of 1/4 inch glass (might be thicker... I'll have to double check when I get home. The black stuff around the top of the tank was sealant that he put on the top edge of the glass to create a "waterproof" seal between the glass and the lid he had on it to prevent evaporation. I DIY'd a plexiglass lid to go over top of it, drilled out some access holes for the skimmer, intake and return plumbing, ran some waterproof sealant tape around the edges, then set it on top. I probably should drill some holes for the electrical cords and skimmer bag holder, but most likely won't do that until I figure out how to add in a ATO system. I can definitely see how you would think it was a tank with the rim taken off of it though!

How can you tell that the light isn't strong enough for an anemone?

 

[Uncle99]

Lights grow maybe softies. Too low for anything else.
Starfish, won’t last long.
1 yellow tang fine.
Enjoy.

 

[dedragon]

How can you tell that the light isn't strong enough for an anemone?

Been doing this awhile and have just used many different lighting options including diy leds. These lights are low wattage, dont have optics, and use low output rgb leds. To give a easier comparison, 2x smatfarms will use around 190watts of power compared to the 36 watts from the woino and I would say 2x smatfarms is only moderate amount of light that can be used. For amount of just watts I would say to aim for between 165watts up to even 350watts (yes i know it isnt the best way to measure lights but is easier in this situation)

 

[Stblindtiger]

Been doing this awhile and have just used many different lighting options including diy leds. These lights are low wattage, dont have optics, and use low output rgb leds. To give a easier comparison, 2x smatfarms will use around 190watts of power compared to the 36 watts from the woino and I would say 2x smatfarms is only moderate amount of light that can be used. For amount of just watts I would say to aim for between 165watts up to even 350watts (yes i know it isnt the best way to measure lights but is easier in this situation)

Thanks dedragon! I just found the Smatfarm lights on Amazon and noticed that they were 96 W compared to the bar I have now that is only 36 W!

Sucks when you order and use the wrong parts and then can't return them! Just another reason to go slow I guess...

Now I'll have to figure out how to order new lights and add them to the tank without my wife figuring out I wasted money on the old light.... wish me luck!

 

[dedragon]

There are a lot of good and bad lights out there and most lie about par output. Bulkreefsupply is a good resource for information or some products you might need and might not be available at your LFS. They have a very good beginner video guide as well as product testing videos, which might help you out. Good luck on the build

 

[Stblindtiger]

Now that I updated my lights and a few other aspects of my set up (added refugium, removed canister filters)I just added my first fish yesterday! What do you think of this updated future stocking list?

Equipment List:
-Aquarium: Used Non Drilled 75 Gallon with CS50 Siphon Overflow (attached Kohler Aqualift 3 GPH Pump to prevent losing siphon)
-Wavemaker: 2 Hygger 2100 GPH Magnetic Powerheads
-Salt: Red Sea Fish Pharm Coral Pro Marine Salt
-RO Filter: Max Water 6 Stage 100 GPD RODI System
-60 lbs of Nature's Ocean Coral Base Rock
-1 Medium Piece of CaribSea Original Life Rock
-Cabinet: Custom made Wood Stand that came with Aquarium
-Amazon Basics Standby UPS 800VA 450W Surge Protector Battery Power Backup
-Display Tank Lighting: 2 SMATFARM 95 Watt G5 Aquastar LED's

-Sump/Refugium: Custom 3 section 15 Gallon (20 Gallon Total Capacity) Glass
*Section 1 of Sump:
-Mechanical Filter: Bubblefin Pre-Sump Filter Sock 4"
-Skimmer: IOAOI Hang on Protein Skimmer for tank up to 80 Gallons
*Section 2 of Sump:
-BioFilter Media: Little pieces of rock/shell/dead coral, and Fluval BioMax Filter Media scattered along the bottom
-Heater: 2 Hitop 100-Watt Adjustable Heaters
-Chaeto
-Refugium Lighting: Hygger 24/7 6 W LED mounted 6" above Chaeto on the outside of Refugium Lid
*Section 3 of Sump:
-30 PPI Foam pads in last set of sump baffles to keep Chaeto in
-Return Pump: Hygger 2120 GPH Saltwater Aquarium Submersible Pump 24 V w/ Controller

-ATO: F-Zone Auto top Off System with Dual Optic Sensor
-2 Gallon Reservoir

Livestock List:
Current stocking:
AlgaeBarn's Poseidon's Feast (Live Copepods)
Daily dose of AlgaeBarn's Ocean Magik (Live Phytoplankton)
Coraline Algae (Pink bottle added 1/30/23, Purple Bottle added 2/17/23)
Daily dose of Brightwell Aquatics Coraline Accelerator (Multi-Nutrient Supplement)
2 Maroon Gold Stripe Clownfish (2/16/23)
CUC: 7 Cerith snails, 8 Nassarius snails, 7 Margarite snails, and 8 Nerite snails (2/16/23)

Possible Future fish/Invertebrate additions:
Paired Wheeler Goby and Pistol Shrimp (future addition)
Bubble Tip Sea Anemone (future addition)
Royal Gramma (future addition)
Lawnmower Blenny (future addition)
Blue green Mandarin (future addition)
Exquisite Wrasse (Future Addition)
Leopard Wrasse (Future Adition)
Yellow Tang (future addition)
Linckia Blue Starfish (Future Addition)
Maxima Blue Clam (Future Addition)


Future Coral additions (very tentative... haven't researched a lot about these yet):
Zoas (future addition)
Hammer coral (future addition)
Torch Coral (Future addition)
Acropora Coral (Future Addition)