Struggles with my hard corals

Adam Schindler

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Hey everyone, first time posting here. So I was gifted a tank maybe 4 years ago. 90 gallon with a 20-30 gallon sump/refugium. It was in decent shape when I got it. Kept up with it for 3 years until just recently I moved. Lost a lot of established water in the move and I’m pretty sure the tank cycled. Massive hair algae bloom. So after balancing that and trying to dial everything back in here I am. Throughout the time after the move I lost chalices, caulustrea, a foxface, can’t keep an urchin alive for more than a month. I’ll post pics of the tank and the coral that is there. I’ll also get test results for everything a of now. Thanks for any advice.

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C. Eymann

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Post parameters, also, how are you measuring salinity? if refractometer, how often is it calibrated? and what are you using to calibrate it?
 
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Adam Schindler

Adam Schindler

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Ph-8.2 - 8.4
Ammonia- 0-.25
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-0
Phosphate- 0-.25
Calcium-460
KH-10
Mag- 1470
Sg-1.025
I use a instant ocean hydrometer. All testing done with api except mag which was salifert. I know the mag is a little high but other than that I thought everything was fine. But I’m far from knowledgeable on this stuff.
 

Silverfish

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Welcome. Don’t add any more livestock. concentrate on your present inhabitants, listen to the great advice fm the help you get and u will hv a thriving tank!
oh! Also....don’t get discouraged. Perseverance wins the day!
 

Duffer

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First get rid of that ammonia, next get some nitrates in your tank, corals like a little dirty water,next get that phosphate down below .10

Are you dosing? Alk swings will cause more stress on your corals and will die off
 

C. Eymann

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Ph-8.2 - 8.4
Ammonia- 0-.25
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-0
Phosphate- 0-.25
Calcium-460
KH-10
Mag- 1470
Sg-1.025
I use a instant ocean hydrometer. All testing done with api except mag which was salifert. I know the mag is a little high but other than that I thought everything was fine. But I’m far from knowledgeable on this stuff.

Problems Im seeing,
1. you are not using a refractometer
2. you are using API kits
3. N/P is out of balance, NO3 is bottomed out and PO4 is way too high
4. 10dkh is a bit high- most oceans around the world are 6.7-7.5

Also what are temperature? how is that being monitored/determined ?
 
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Adam Schindler

Adam Schindler

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Problems Im seeing,
1. you are not using a refractometer
2. you are using API kits
3. N/P is out of balance, NO3 is bottomed out and PO4 is way too high
4. 10dkh is a bit high- most oceans around the world are 6.7-7.5

Also what are temperature? how is that being monitored/determined ?
Digital in tank. 76-77 degrees
 

Dana Riddle

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I tend to think that inadequate water motion is the major cause of coral losses. Assuming of course that lighting, temperature and water parameters are correct. What powerheads? Lighting? Don't sweat the magnesium level, I run mine at 1500+.
 
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Adam Schindler

Adam Schindler

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I have a hard time gauging the api tests. That’s what I said 0-.25 for phosphate for instance. Same with the ammonia, I have a hard time seeing the difference colors at times.
 
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Adam Schindler

Adam Schindler

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It was cheap yes. But between that and the setting of my heater I think it’s close. What would you recommend instead? I used to have a glass one with suction cup but it broke
 

Duffer

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I have a hard time gauging the api tests. That’s what I said 0-.25 for phosphate for instance. Same with the ammonia, I have a hard time seeing the difference colors at times.
Well my friend if you want to keep some corals you are going to have to spend some money on better test kits to get a more accurate reading, Hanna and salfiert test kits are my go to
 

C. Eymann

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It was cheap yes. But between that and the setting of my heater I think it’s close. What would you recommend instead? I used to have a glass one with suction cup but it broke
Id put more faith n the old fashioned glass one than a $10 digital thermometer, there is a reason a quality, accurate digital thermometer is $70-$100.
 

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