sump design thread

reef tank 2.0

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I have this thread started in my build thread but I think I might get more responses for it if I post here and keep this updated with questions as I go

I have not run any of my plumbing yet, although the hole has been cut in the floor!! I am now in the basement trying to figure out how to secure the lines in place and which route i'd like them to go. All PVC is 1".

this is certainly fairly simple. the sump layout is slightly offset from the display tank above, so it is not a perfect drop down.

let me know if any of this raises a red flag. I don't have a lot, and I am trying to replicate, for the most part, the set up I had before. I never found that I needed anymore than what I am working with.

once the lines pass through the floor, they will each hit a union. (D, R, E - Drain line, Return Line, Emergency Drain Line)

Drain Line - I am still debating whether I use 45's or 90's. I think I will use 45's so there are no flow restrictions, other than the 3 or so 45's. Would it matter if they were 90's? I would like 90's only for the fact that that allows me to leave a lot of the wall space clear for future use, i can keep the line high and tight. Using 45's could potentially have the line taking a good chunk of the wall up for maybe adding / hanging other devices.

Return Line - i'll have this come up vertically and hit three gate valves. one valve would hit the carbon reactor, the second valve would hit the GFO reactor, and the third valve would be a spare for future use. (I hope this vertical run won't take up a whole lot of wall space, and that I have enough room to do what I want). Once it hits the last valve, then it would make it's way up to the Display Tank.

Emergency line - Once it hits the union, I was thinking of adding a hose barb right below. from that hose barb, I'd install a run of flexible tubing that would eventually make it's way to the Skimmer portion of my sump. Since this is a last resort drain, I'm thinking that I can get away with tubing rather than hard pvc. On the attached pdf, i show this line as an exaggerated curvy line. Obviously that's not how it will be installed.

As for the sump, I'll have the skimmer on the left, rocks and heaters in the center and then the return pump on the right. Since there are no baffles, Everything will be in it's own compartment with imaginary dividers :). i will place a small powerhead in the sump to help with flow across the rocks. Not quite sure if a powerhead is needed, but what harm could it cause? Once I start dosing, I'll need a powerhead to help mix the dosing supplements. I am planning on having two heaters in the sump. And as much rock as I can fit in the center. I have a lot of rock left over from my 135 tank, so I should be good there. I started my last tank with dry rock, so I will be taking the same steps this time around.

this sump can literally slide left or right. Where I show it, does not mean it's in it's final home. I'll slide it left and right as needed once plumbing starts to take place.

I am using schedule 80 parts and pieces, as well as unions. I like the grey color. I will most likely continue the black pipe scheme I have going at the display tank. I'll paint all that once i dry fit everything. i hear some people have a bit of trouble with unions leaking. I certainly hope that isn't the case for me, especially behind the display tank.

In my post #5 above, you'll see the upper half of the plumbing lines that come off the Display tank. I have unions and gate valves up there to adjust flow. all accessible.

where the lines come through the floor, and where the basement wall is, there is a good gap, i don't have that dimension yet. But I think I'll need stand offs. but that doesn't affect what I'm planning here.

Hopefully everyone can see the attached pdf. Here is a naked view of the wall that I have to play with.
the upper right corner of the photo is where the plumbing lines pass down through the floor.

oh, and as for electric......i have one circuit going to that GFCI receptacle in the upper left corner of the photo. i will have a surge suppressor plugged into it. that'll most likely have 10-12 outlets on it, although they won't ever be all used.

i'll talk about the water storage area once I get this part squared away.

 

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  • sump layout (1).pdf
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TX_REEF

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I'd go with 40s or sweeping 90s to prevent flow restriction where possible. You can also use a heat gun to carefully bend and shape PVC to create your own curved segments, reducing the need for elbows.
 

bubblybubbles

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Definitely use 45s if possible or, at minimum, use 90s. I wouldn't bend pvc, especially with heat, as it will cause weak points that may give under pressure. If you glue joints properly, you won't have any leaks to worry about (at least not if the fittings are of good quality).
 

TX_REEF

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Definitely use 45s if possible or, at minimum, use 90s. I wouldn't bend pvc, especially with heat, as it will cause weak points that may give under pressure. If you glue joints properly, you won't have any leaks to worry about (at least not if the fittings are of good quality).
I have to respectfully disagree with your conclusion, although you are correct in theory. The PSI at which heat formed PVC will fail is still in extreme excess of anything that would be experienced by normal home reef tank plumbing.

 

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