SUMP HELP

[ngbski_]

LOOKING TO BUILD MY OWN SUMP .. okay look I’ll take any help (online tips/hands on in the Los Angeles area lol) but essentially under my 40 gallon breeder I want to have a 10 gallon sump, NO HOLES DRILLED, more so was thinking 2 pvc pipes running out the back of my tank and into each side of the sump, 1 pulling water, and 1 returning. My questions are. 1.) How will I get water to be pulled continuously from the main tank? 2.) How would I get water to return to the tank at a consistent flow? & 3.) How would I prevent ANY type of flooding to the main or sump? Thank Bros & Brokishas

 

[Fish Fan]

First, your tank looks very nice, do you *need* a sump?

You prevent flooding by having at least two and even three drains. This article has more on the three most popular drain systems (though I do not suggest using a single drain "Durso"):
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/cont...5pxqb2KU1t2gfSWny7Iuy1VYljxmd45zXGSnbqxruAVFw

Drilling a tank is not hard if you want to try. But, you can get a reliable Hang On Back overflow, like those from Eshopps that do not require drilling.

You want you sump to be large enough to handle all the water that drains back into it when the power goes off for any reason. You might be alright with a ten gallon, but I'd go for a 20 gallon long sump, I think you'll appreciate the extra room.

If you want to DIY a sump, I think the best value going are the baffle kits from Modular Marine on eBay. I think they are a better deal than Jax Racks and Fijicube baffle kits:
https://www.ebay.com/str/marinebiosystems

Good luck!

 

[ngbski_]

First, your tank looks very nice, do you *need* a sump?

You prevent flooding by having at least two and even three drains. This article has more on the three most popular drain systems (though I do not suggest using a single drain "Durso"):
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/cont...5pxqb2KU1t2gfSWny7Iuy1VYljxmd45zXGSnbqxruAVFw

Drilling a tank is not hard if you want to try. But, you can get a reliable Hang On Back overflow, like those from Eshopps that do not require drilling.

You want you sump to be large enough to handle all the water that drains back into it when the power goes off for any reason. You might be alright with a ten gallon, but I'd go for a 20 gallon long sump, I think you'll appreciate the extra room.

If you want to DIY a sump, I think the best value going are the baffle kits from Modular Marine on eBay. I think they are a better deal than Jax Racks and Fijicube baffle kits:
https://www.ebay.com/str/marinebiosystems

Good luck!

Thank u just put me on a good amount of game with those links, honestly ill probably go with an eshopps, drilling is more of a “next upgraded tank” typa thing for me before i aquascape & everything .. but okay so any of those drain types are compatible with an overflow box??

 

[ngbski_]

Thank u just put me on a good amount of game with those links, honestly ill probably go with an eshopps, drilling is more of a “next upgraded tank” typa thing for me before i aquascape & everything .. but okay so any of those drain types are compatible with an overflow box??

To answer do I NEED a sump? lol honestly you tell me I plan on having 2 clown (already have) 1 royal gramma & 1 firefish with a AC70 hob filter. I’ve just been thinking about a sump it seems like a super filter that would help the quality for fish a lot

 

[Fish Fan]

To answer do I NEED a sump? lol honestly you tell me I plan on having 2 clown (already have) 1 royal gramma & 1 firefish with a AC70 hob filter. I’ve just been thinking about a sump it seems like a super filter that would help the quality for fish a lot

I don't know. You can easily run the tank you're describing without a sump. A sump offers more versatility, but definitely complicates things. I've run many tanks with AC's, they are my prefered HOB filter, even over the Seachem Tidal HOB filters. I think a HOB would be perfectly fine for a tank that is mostly looking to keep fish.

 

[ngbski_]

I don't know. You can easily run the tank you're describing without a sump. A sump offers more versatility, but definitely complicates things. I've run many tanks with AC's, they are my prefered HOB filter, even over the Seachem Tidal HOB filters. I think a HOB would be perfectly fine for a tank that is mostly looking to keep fish

I don't know. You can easily run the tank you're describing without a sump. A sump offers more versatility, but definitely complicates things. I've run many tanks with AC's, they are my prefered HOB filter, even over the Seachem Tidal HOB filters. I think a HOB would be perfectly fine for a tank that is mostly looking to keep fish.

Cool. Pretty much reassures all the research I did, just thought a 2nd opinion would help. I do 25% water changes weekly out of a 44gal husky bin I have so the water parameters are consistent & quick for changes. Basically just temp match before and boom

 

[Decamicron Labs Verified Sponsor]

I agree, it might not be something you really need. However, if you are still set on doing it, we were going to use these for our facility

 

[ngbski_]

I agree, it might not be something you really need. However, if you are still set on doing it, we were going to use these for our facility

That’s sick honestly if I could figure out the perfect flow on the return pump & a way to have that sit a bit more sturdy on my frame I might just have a filtration upgrade soon lol. I’m sure black PVC is just as safe ??

 

[Decamicron Labs Verified Sponsor]

That’s sick honestly if I could figure out the perfect flow on the return pump & a way to have that sit a bit more sturdy on my frame I might just have a filtration upgrade soon lol. I’m sure black PVC is just as safe ??

Yes thats another thing, I would suggest using an aquarium sponge where it sits on your tank to prevent damage caused by vibration and movement in general. You could also consider 3D printing pieces if you have one.

I can't advise on whether a particular material is safe or not for liability purposes as I am representing a company. I would suggest purchasing from a reputable source like BRS after doing some due diligence.

 

[ngbski_]

Yes thats another thing, I would suggest using an aquarium sponge where it sits on your tank to prevent damage caused by vibration and movement in general. You could also consider 3D printing pieces if you have one.

I can't advise on whether a particular material is safe or not for liability purposes as I am representing a company. I would suggest purchasing from a reputable source like BRS after doing some due diligence.

I get you, just wondering if there’s a more in depth video on the assembly of the pvc pipe version I’m a visual learner & the jump from parts to fully assembled scrambled my brain lowkey ha

 

[Decamicron Labs Verified Sponsor]

I believe this video shows it

I get you, just wondering if there’s a more in depth video on the assembly of the pvc pipe version I’m a visual learner & the jump from parts to fully assembled scrambled my brain lowkey ha

 

[ngbski_]

I believe this video shows it

HEEEEE

 

[mcarroll]

LOOKING TO BUILD MY OWN SUMP .. okay look I’ll take any help (online tips/hands on in the Los Angeles area lol) but essentially under my 40 gallon breeder I want to have a 10 gallon sump, NO HOLES DRILLED, more so was thinking 2 pvc pipes running out the back of my tank and into each side of the sump, 1 pulling water, and 1 returning. My questions are. 1.) How will I get water to be pulled continuously from the main tank? 2.) How would I get water to return to the tank at a consistent flow? & 3.) How would I prevent ANY type of flooding to the main or sump? Thank Bros & Brokishas

Weird....it's like in Google the 1990's never happened.....all the good guides to DIY overflows were made back then....now all you see via the algorithm is retrograde stuff on video like the above. I'd be willing to run one of those if my tank was outdoors, but that's it. (And I wouldn't like it.)

Since you asked, nobody "needs" a sump any more than they "need" a fish tank in their house. Both are elective. Both can make things nicer.

I Think You Need A Standard Overflow Box
A standard U-tube style overflow box is your basic unit for getting a sump working with a standard (no holes) display tank. No drain setup is more tried and true as folks have been running these *at least* since the 1980's. Eshopps, Pro Clear, Lifereef and probably others still make them (eg):

With this you get an adjustable weir (the part in front with the teeth) that prevents blockages and sets the display tank's water level.

You get a clear U-tube for the siphon so you can tune the flow correctly. Flow can't be too low or bubbles will slowly accumulate in the siphon eventually breaking the siphon. With this setup you will see them accumulating well before there's a chance of breaking siphon so you can correct your setup.

In the back you get a drain box with a stand pipe. The stand pipe and the front weir together hold the water level of the overflow box above the siphon tube ends, thus maintaining the siphon through power outages and other system shutdowns.

The whole system works on gravity, so once the siphon is setup up and the flow rate is correct they are virtually bulletproof. A mesh covering for the weir and teeth is called for if you will have snails breeding or algae mats at risk of getting to the drain. Just the teeth are good for most "clean reef" situations, but many reefs aren't "most situations". So extra protection is possible. (My buddy does this on all his drains no matter what style they are. I have never done it. Depends what you're going to be doing in the tank.)

The water flow rate from your return pump is what sets the flow rate through the drain box. Again there has to be a minimum flow rate to keep bubbles from "settling" at the apex of the U-tube....and you'll see whether you've got it right or not. In general, a 1" drain setup is good for a maximum of 600 GPH, but will be silent only up to about 50% of that flow....so about 300 GPH should be close to ideal, and should keep bubbles from accumulating as well.

For a tank this size, if flooding or leaks are of utmost concern, you should also consider alternatives. Like running an in tank filter system like a Tunze 9004 protein skimmer + Comline filter. The filter unit is also a place for your ATO sensor and heater to be hidden. Using just the 9004 skimmer (without the Comline) is probably fine if your bioload will be moderate.....having a low bioload is a good idea in general.

I hope this helps!

 

[ngbski_]

Bru yall are the best

 

[ngbski_]

Weird....it's like in Google the 1990's never happened.....all the good guides to DIY overflows were made back then....now all you see via the algorithm is retrograde stuff on video like the above. I'd be willing to run one of those if my tank was outdoors, but that's it. (And I wouldn't like it.)

Since you asked, nobody "needs" a sump any more than they "need" a fish tank in their house. Both are elective. Both can make things nicer.

I Think You Need A Standard Overflow Box
A standard U-tube style overflow box is your basic unit for getting a sump working with a standard (no holes) display tank. No drain setup is more tried and true as folks have been running these *at least* since the 1980's. Eshopps, Pro Clear, Lifereef and probably others still make them (eg):

With this you get an adjustable weir (the part in front with the teeth) that prevents blockages and sets the display tank's water level.

You get a clear U-tube for the siphon so you can tune the flow correctly. Flow can't be too low or bubbles will slowly accumulate in the siphon eventually breaking the siphon. With this setup you will see them accumulating well before there's a chance of breaking siphon so you can correct your setup.

In the back you get a drain box with a stand pipe. The stand pipe and the front weir together hold the water level of the overflow box above the siphon tube ends, thus maintaining the siphon through power outages and other system shutdowns.

The whole system works on gravity, so once the siphon is setup up and the flow rate is correct they are virtually bulletproof. A mesh covering for the weir and teeth is called for if you will have snails breeding or algae mats at risk of getting to the drain. Just the teeth are good for most "clean reef" situations, but many reefs aren't "most situations". So extra protection is possible. (My buddy does this on all his drains no matter what style they are. I have never done it. Depends what you're going to be doing in the tank.)

The water flow rate from your return pump is what sets the flow rate through the drain box. Again there has to be a minimum flow rate to keep bubbles from "settling" at the apex of the U-tube....and you'll see whether you've got it right or not. In general, a 1" drain setup is good for a maximum of 600 GPH, but will be silent only up to about 50% of that flow....so about 300 GPH should be close to ideal, and should keep bubbles from accumulating as well.

For a tank this size, if flooding or leaks are of utmost concern, you should also consider alternatives. Like running an in tank filter system like a Tunze 9004 protein skimmer + Comline filter. The filter unit is also a place for your ATO sensor and heater to be hidden. Using just the 9004 skimmer (without the Comline) is probably fine if your bioload will be moderate.....having a low bioload is a good idea in general.

I hope this helps!

Most definitely this is all mind candy for me lol !