Sump setup

[sarimus]

Hi all
We purchased a 450 litre tank with a 4 compartment sump and are building a reef tank. Where we come from ( small one horse town) there isn’t anywhere to go for set up help.
I’ve attached a picture of how I’ve setup the sump and wondering if it’s ok like that.
I’ve put this in order
1st space Fine filter pad to catch crap and I can easily pull it out and change it, under that black foam
2nd space. Bio media
3rd space, skimmer and more bio media
4th space, return pump.

And advice would be greatly appreciated.
Kind regards
Maryanne

 

[Gumbies R Us]

@BeanAnimal

 

[get-salty]

Looks legit..

But any reason why you're running the drain all the way across to the right side?
most setup including mine, drain runs straight down from the display (left chamber), refugium - if you want, skimmer, and then return - far right.

I mean, your setup will work 100%.

 

[martin.a]

I too would run the drain to the left and use a long return pipe from the pump in the right compartment. I would also consider a mat roller. They are really convenient.

 

[mfinn]

I noticed the drain going all the way from left to the far right side too.
Reverse it maybe?

If you are planning on using live rock in the display you could eliminate the bio-balls.
I would move the skimmer one compartment away from the return pump section, and maybe add a refugium with macro-algae? Moving the skimmer will help stop micro bubbles going into the display tank.

 

[get-salty]

I noticed the drain going all the way from left to the far right side too.
Reverse it maybe?

If you are planning on using live rock in the display you could eliminate the bio-balls.
I would move the skimmer one compartment away from the return pump section, and maybe add a refugium with macro-algae? Moving the skimmer will help stop micro bubbles going into the display tank.

+1
eliminate all of the bio medias ; )

 

[sarimus]

Thanks for the replies
Ok I will swap it all around.
One more question though, if I remove all the bio media as in those seachem bits and the plastic bio balls and the bio logs, what does the bio filtering, just live rock. We did build the aqua scape with some life rock, but by the sounds of it that isn’t really live rock.

 

[EricR]

I agree with the above suggestions.

The only other thing I'd wonder about is how the dividers between the chambers are setup since I can't see those.
*if they're different right-to-left vs left-to-right you'd want to consider that for deciding which direction flow should move. (Kinda looks like you could turn the sump 180 degrees if needed to get the drain side on the left if needed but not sure).

 

[Marco_99]

Thanks for the replies
Ok I will swap it all around.
One more question though, if I remove all the bio media as in those seachem bits and the plastic bio balls and the bio logs, what does the bio filtering, just live rock. We did build the aqua scape with some life rock, but by the sounds of it that isn’t really live rock.

Beneficial bacteria do the work and will eventually consume your rock surfaces and sand, doesn’t matter if it’s live or not to begin with, it will be over time. You have a fair amount of rock and sand so the media below is probably not necessary. All those balls and logs will more likely turn into more of a detritus trap which may cause you more harm/work than good.

 

[mfinn]

Thanks for the replies
Ok I will swap it all around.
One more question though, if I remove all the bio media as in those seachem bits and the plastic bio balls and the bio logs, what does the bio filtering, just live rock. We did build the aqua scape with some life rock, but by the sounds of it that isn’t really live rock.

The live rock is the biofilter.
But you need to use actual live rock. Not a dry rock. If you start with dry rock you need to cycle it. There are several methods. The easiest is using bacteria in a bottle.

 

[Kokanuty]

If the baffles are already siliconed in you can just rotate the sump if possible, otherwise you can hardline a PVC to the right side for the 1st chamber. Obviously the baffles need to be high to low and some go under. Once they are in you cant run it backwards unless you redo it. I prefer short return lines over short drains because water friction in the lines can cause quite a bit of GPH loss.

 

[martin.a]

From my very limited experience with just a few tanks:

Use real live rock to start your tank. It's a game changer. You can possibly arrive at the same outcome using only dry media AND microbiom brought with live creatures you get when settling your tank. (I tried this and gave up.) Put the live rock into sump. You may use some light in there, or not.

You can relatively easily get live rock in Australia. Google: live rock site:.au
I got mine - "XMAS Live Rock 1kg (Pest free)" from reefhaven.com.au shipped to Canberra. Good experience, although the rocks were really 'sanitized' from most living creatures. Probably this was the only way to ensure it's pest free. Anyway, the microbiom was very good, rocks were covered with coraline algae. I would buy again. Of course, if you can, rather pickup in person. Also, seed your tank with copepods and amphipods as soon as possible. The rocks I got already came with them, they needed phytoplankton dosing to take off.

Use of plastic or generally artificial media is 'debatable'. Personally, I don't like it, but all the microbiom (and the pods) need surface to live on.

I would also suggest getting gate valve for your drain pipe. It's relatively expensive, but less frustrating than ball.

 

[sarimus]

Ok thanks for all the replies and I’ve took note and adjusted.
I can’t change the drain end as the direction of the sump is the way in the picture and I can’t get the sump out to swap it around.
All the bio media is gone and the skimmer is moved over next to the drain.
Would you put anything in the vacant compartment.
Thanks again
Trevor

 

[sarimus]

One more question lol.
Who would remove that foam and white fleece Matt and put in a Red Sea reef Matt 500.

 

[get-salty]

Ok thanks for all the replies and I’ve took note and adjusted.
I can’t change the drain end as the direction of the sump is the way in the picture and I can’t get the sump out to swap it around.
All the bio media is gone and the skimmer is moved over next to the drain.
Would you put anything in the vacant compartment.
Thanks again
Trevor

that looks better but take this into consider as well...
- have someone run hard plumbing for that drain bc you need to add a gate valve to control the flow.
- I'd remove that white filter as it seems like it would get clogged real fast - RS roller mat would be good.

sucks that you cannot slide that sump out on that right side. that right panel doesnt open?
other than adding a gate valve to the drain, you're on the right track.

 

[sarimus]

He the right side panel can come out, oh now I think I understand, the grey flexible pipe you saying hard plumb that and put a gate valve on it. So you use the gate valve to regulate the amount of water that enters the sump.

 

[get-salty]

He the right side panel can come out, oh now I think I understand, the grey flexible pipe you saying hard plumb that and put a gate valve on it. So you use the gate valve to regulate the amount of water that enters the sump.

that is correct !