Sump

B-ridge

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anyone interested in helping design and build my new sump? Nothing too fancy. Some baffles. Skinner holder. Maybe incorporate some filter sock holders. Welcome to suggestions. Thanks
 

sponge

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I do not have a drill bit to drill the tank ,but am willing to offer up some assistance . I built two sumps,one from a 55 gallon;the other is from a 75 gallon. I had glass cut for the baffles, and the return's are in the center . I would be careful as to measuring the inside of the tank . If the glass is to long ,like it was for me once;I ended up using a file to file down the side so it would fit straight .

What type of help do you need ?
 

icy1155

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Whatever you measure for the inside dimensions of the glass, reduce it by 1/8". That will give you enough room to get them in and the silicone will easily seal up the gap.
 
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B-ridge

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Help I need is silicone the baffles. Wanna build a skimmer stand also since were getting glass anyway. That’s it. Unless someone has anymore ideas
 

mattdg

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anyone interested in helping design and build my new sump? Nothing too fancy. Some baffles. Skinner holder. Maybe incorporate some filter sock holders. Welcome to suggestions. Thanks

I have a 4" filter sock holder, just removed from my frag system. You are welcome to it, if you'd like to come grab it. Happy to chat about sump design and/or show you what I've done with my systems, as well.
 

sponge

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This is the 75 gallon ,with the return in the center. The 220 and the 150 both have a wier in each back corner.
DSC01692_zps7aeulybx.jpg

This is my 55 gallon .I was wondering at the time as which way to go with the baffles . The 220 will get the 75 ,and the 150 is using the 55.
003-1.jpg
 

October Sky

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I can't really offer assistance, as the sump I built isn't designed well enough for the flow rate I'm going to use. I get bubbles because it's not tall enough. And my spacing requirements cause me to not desire another bubble trap. It's a "under/over/over/under" design 20L. My return pump just moves too much water to really make it work. If you go the route of not wanting to build your own, and it would work for you, I'd let it go for cheap (cost) or more important a trade.

That said, I have a 1" hole saw and a guide for it.
 

icy1155

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I can't really offer assistance, as the sump I built isn't designed well enough for the flow rate I'm going to use. I get bubbles because it's not tall enough. And my spacing requirements cause me to not desire another bubble trap. It's a "under/over/over/under" design 20L. My return pump just moves too much water to really make it work. If you go the route of not wanting to build your own, and it would work for you, I'd let it go for cheap (cost) or more important a trade.

There is any easy solution for that. Put a Tee in your return line with a valved line that goes back into the sump under the water level (so it doesn't create bubbles crashing in). Then divert as much flow as you need back to the sump using the valve. Presto, less bubbles in the display.
 

dutch27

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My best advice on all you really need to worry about, is that the operating depth of the sump isn't too high so the display can drain enough when the return is off. Do a rough calc of the volume you expect to lose down to the sump when the pump is off, then back that into a depth that you need to keep empty in the sump.

I'd also reconsider filter socks. I've never used them, but hear they're a real pain as they can clog up quickly. When I had a system with a sump I had the water from the display drain into the skimmer chamber to try and get the skimmer to pick up as much stuff as possible, and from time to time would siphon the sump out. I think Ross used to use a shop vac from time to time clean out his sump. Depends on how much you want to deal with swapping out and cleaning socks.

+1 to icy's tip on a T off of the return, it can also help throttle the flow to the display without back pressure on the pump, if you don't go with a DC pump that has variable output.
 

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