T5HO wiring question

Algae_Farmer

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Howdy, I have a 4 bulb T5HO fixture powered by a single electronic ballast. I was hoping to split the wiring into two separate circuits so I could run 2 blue bulbs off of a separate timer than my white bulbs, before I realized it was a single ballast. The label on the ballast suggests that there is a way to operate two lamps independently of the other two (by switching one of the neutrals with the grey/red wire - see pic of diagram on ballast). I'm trying to figure out how I could set up two timers with this configuration. Seems like I could use a regular plug in timer for the overall, I'm just not sure how to switch the second circuit with a timer since it's not line power, and just a neutral wire at that point. Any ideas or suggestions? Short of buying a different fixture... :)

20200106_061330.jpg
 

WVNed

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Is the grey red attached to the black wire now?
If it is
Simple test disconnect the red/grey wire and see if you only get 2 lamps on.
you would need to make another cord for the light.
one cord attaches to black - white wires
other attaches to grey/red - white wires
Plug each cord into separate timers

https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/f5/f53ba222-fcc1-46ba-a644-f85e42631717.pdf
look at the part of this about 50% dimming with occupancy sensor.
You are replacing the sensor with a timer. The only difference is you would need a second neutral to the timer to power it.
 

oreo54

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Looks like it's set up to be all on or 2 on using a switch (S) on the secondary circuit..
 

jda

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In the VHO days, you would shorten the ballast life if you did this. ...either run all 4 or just 2. They are not made to think that they are running 4 bulbs and having the circuit clipped. It might not even turn on at all if you have 4 selected and have an open circuit on the secondary.
 

oreo54

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In the VHO days, you would shorten the ballast life if you did this. ...either run all 4 or just 2. They are not made to think that they are running 4 bulbs and having the circuit clipped. It might not even turn on at all if you have 4 selected and have an open circuit on the secondary.


Ballast is designed to be switched on/off at the "S".. putting a timed switch at that point shouldn't be an issue..
Looks like a split ballast so prob 2 independent circuits..

Putting a timer on the main to turn on 2 tubes (secondary "switch" off) then time switching the "s" part (giving 4 tubes) shouldn't be an issue..



Def wouldn't switch on the bulb side though..even if in reality it wouldn't be an issue..
Powering primary.. having secondary "open"..

YMMV..

whats confusing is wiring "s" to neutral (or any hot) statement but it's def built to be 2 or 4 tubes on..
 
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Algae_Farmer

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The grey/red wire is currently connected to the white neutral wires coming in from the line voltage. I agree it seems odd that it says neutral or any hot, not quite sure what to do with that... FWIW I'm an "experienced amateur" electrician, though the split ballast concept hadn't occurred to me. Are you saying there are effectively two ballast in one casing, and I could possibly operate them independently? That still leaves me wondering how to use an off-the-shelf timer if it's the neutral that we're switching...
 

oreo54

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The grey/red wire is currently connected to the white neutral wires coming in from the line voltage. I agree it seems odd that it says neutral or any hot, not quite sure what to do with that... FWIW I'm an "experienced amateur" electrician, though the split ballast concept hadn't occurred to me. Are you saying there are effectively two ballast in one casing, and I could possibly operate them independently? That still leaves me wondering how to use an off-the-shelf timer if it's the neutral that we're switching...
Well the split ballast is somewhat conjecture on my part.
As to the other part a simple AC single pull relay w/ a coil switched on w/ a timer is basically a controlled switch..

Seen a few diagrams where that grey/red wire was attached to a neutral..

Besides think of it as nothing mor ethan a wall switch but instead of the hot it is on the neutral side..
 

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Can you post the rest of that ballast top? What kind is it? Workhorse? Advance?

I am nearly positive that you get to run 2 bulbs or 4 and that the S is for your physical configuration since the ballast cannot auto detect like an IceCap, or the like - S matches your physical. You cannot run 4 bulbs and then switch with the S wire.
 

oreo54

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for all intents and purposes it's a Phillips like this:
ICRP-4PSP54-90C

ballast.jpg


Switch on 4 tubes.. switch off 2 tubes..

One of the reasons to go led .. no messing w/ this cr@p... ;)


Bottom line is you need to energize White/black w/ switch open for 2 tubes.. Closed for 4 tubes.
side note needs confirming

How you do that is up to you..
Instead of a switch a timed sp/st relay is fine..


Also apparently it runs parallel per 2 tubes anyways. One goes out other stays on..

Don't think the timer posted will work..It's switching between 2..so one is always "off"..not what you want AFAICT.
Customer support number listed.. try it..

IF it's a Philips or possibly advance what would NEED to be confirmed is IF you put the grey/red to the HOT side does the balllast hot/neutral need to be reversed..
Seems it would dead short if not..BUT GUESSING here.

most switches are USUALLY on the hot side..
 
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Algae_Farmer

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This all makes sense, thanks for the great discussion. Attached is the rest of the ballast FWIW. I'll probably take it apart and fiddle with it to see what happens. If I blow it up it'll be good excuse to replace it. "I don't know honey it just went bad I think..."

20200106_050656.jpg
 

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Use 2 timers plugged into a power strip. One swithes white/black. Other only switches white.
I dont know about your ballast but the one I posted the data sheet for uses a sensor for occupancy dimming and doesn't require the light to be restarted to turn off 2 lamps.
 
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Algae_Farmer

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This all makes sense, thanks for the great discussion. Attached is the rest of the ballast FWIW. I'll probably take it apart and fiddle with it to see what happens. If I blow it up it'll be good excuse to replace it. "I don't know honey it just went bad I think..."

20200106_050656.jpg
 
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Algae_Farmer

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Following up on this, I was able to retrofit a solution fairly easily for ~$15. I put the whole fixture on a regular plug in timer (to control the blues - first on, last off), then split the grey/red (neutral) wire and added an externally powered timer (for the whites) as shown in the pic attached. Not sure I'd recommend the Chinese timer long term (bizarre button operation and hilarious (terrible) instructions - hopefully the electronics are higher quality than the instructions :) ) but it's working for now.
Thanks again for all your help folks!

20200128_053110.jpg
 

siggy

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Nifty
 

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