Still too early to say!!! Just have the flame suit on stand by. LOL But you just have to do what works for you. My PBT was in QT for over 6 weeks and never got ick until the display ad the display tank never had ick for 6 month.
Take out Tang with ICH or leave in?
- Thread starter MounteeFrag
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Still too early to say!!! Just have the flame suit on stand by. LOL But you just have to do what works for you. My PBT was in QT for over 6 weeks and never got ick until the display ad the display tank never had ick for 6 month.
That's the thing about ich. Shows up at anytime . I like QT for other things like velvet etc or to make sure they are eating. But I also have concern over a 10g for a larger fish. I wouldn't eat if not happy either. Personally I've never had a QT and been lucky so far. That's the thing about this hobby what works for some may not work for another and visa versa. Makes it very interesting. !
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MounteeFrag
Well-Known Member
Most people don't have room or the funds to have a QT. I'm lucky i have a 10 gallon i threw together with extra equipment laying around the fish room. I buy my fish from one of the best LFS in the country. Everything in my tank was looking good. I added all the Tangs at once (except the naso, i couldn't catch him in my 75, i added him 4 days later) they never fought after the first day and they all ate and was fat and happy. Then i noticed the spots. Then he stopped eating.
This morning i did a water change in the hospital tank. He seems to be swimming a little better, not just in circles. He still bumps into things like he's blind. He is still not eating. Still has spots.
This morning i did a water change in the hospital tank. He seems to be swimming a little better, not just in circles. He still bumps into things like he's blind. He is still not eating. Still has spots.
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MounteeFrag
Well-Known Member
Hopefully someone with some experience can chime in. I believe my Powder Blue is blind. I have tried to research and there is articles but they always end up going off subject with no resolution. Remember when I noticed him not eating and having signs of ich i moved him to the hospital tank and he didn't even know i was there. Now he is almost all clear of white spots and still not eating and still bumping into things.
sawdonkey
Valuable Member
Are you treating this fish in the hospital tank? Is there a film over his eyes?
As for using luck for your ich defense.....your luck will run out eventually. I once lost a tank full if fish that I had for 3-4 years. I was too stubborn a few years later and almost lost all of my fish again due to ich. Luckily I had my old 46 gallon sitting around and was able to copper treat all fish and nobody died. I don't take my chances any more. A 20 gallon tank, powerhead, a bottle of cupramine, and heater is pretty cheap.
As for using luck for your ich defense.....your luck will run out eventually. I once lost a tank full if fish that I had for 3-4 years. I was too stubborn a few years later and almost lost all of my fish again due to ich. Luckily I had my old 46 gallon sitting around and was able to copper treat all fish and nobody died. I don't take my chances any more. A 20 gallon tank, powerhead, a bottle of cupramine, and heater is pretty cheap.
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MounteeFrag
Well-Known Member
Yes im treating the fish in the hospital tank. There is no film over his eyes. I looked at him today and he has no white spots at all. He is breathing fine, swimming around bumping into the pvc pipe, heater and powerhead.
I know others will disagree but i believe that a healthy/fat fish will be able to fend off ich. I have spent the money on my tank to make sure everything is as stable as possible. My controller keeps everything stable, PH, temp, dosing even feeding is all programmed. I have or had 8 fish in a 240 gallon display tank, now 7 with the powder blue in the hospital. Everyone has plenty of room. With that being said there should be no stress or very little. I can deal with a blind fish but he's not eating.
I know others will disagree but i believe that a healthy/fat fish will be able to fend off ich. I have spent the money on my tank to make sure everything is as stable as possible. My controller keeps everything stable, PH, temp, dosing even feeding is all programmed. I have or had 8 fish in a 240 gallon display tank, now 7 with the powder blue in the hospital. Everyone has plenty of room. With that being said there should be no stress or very little. I can deal with a blind fish but he's not eating.
Crzyfshldy
New Member
I know I'm going to get slaughtered for this...but here goes anyway...
I wasn't able to QT my regal before I added it to my 220 DT (other fish were Sailfin, Foxface , 2 clowns, and a Blenny). I had never had an ich issue before but pushed my luck with the regal. That was in January. I could NOT catch her to get her out. I have a TON of rock work and corals so didn't want to risk messing up all the corals and expose the rocks if I didn't have to. It did spread to my sailfin and foxface. They actually got worse than the regal. My LFS guy advised me to try seachem metro and focus along with garlic guard mixed in their food. It seemed to keep it from getting worse but it kept returning. One of them always had it for months! Actually until April. I finally gave in to the "snake oil" and tried Kick Ich. It was pretty expensive bc I had to buy two bottles to complete the entire treatment. I normally kept my temp at 77 so I raised it to 80. I also usually kept my salinity at 1.026 and I lowered it to 1.023. By the end of the first week of treatment all my fish were looking great. No spots...but I had been there before, so I didn't get too excited. By the end of the treatment they were all still looking great. No ich since then at all!!! None of my corals or inverts had any ill effects at all. I did turn my skimmer off and didn't do a water change for two weeks (which did cause me to seriously twitch). I kept water ready for an emergency water change just in case, and tested at least every other day. Soooo...that's my ich story for what it's worth.
I wasn't able to QT my regal before I added it to my 220 DT (other fish were Sailfin, Foxface , 2 clowns, and a Blenny). I had never had an ich issue before but pushed my luck with the regal. That was in January. I could NOT catch her to get her out. I have a TON of rock work and corals so didn't want to risk messing up all the corals and expose the rocks if I didn't have to. It did spread to my sailfin and foxface. They actually got worse than the regal. My LFS guy advised me to try seachem metro and focus along with garlic guard mixed in their food. It seemed to keep it from getting worse but it kept returning. One of them always had it for months! Actually until April. I finally gave in to the "snake oil" and tried Kick Ich. It was pretty expensive bc I had to buy two bottles to complete the entire treatment. I normally kept my temp at 77 so I raised it to 80. I also usually kept my salinity at 1.026 and I lowered it to 1.023. By the end of the first week of treatment all my fish were looking great. No spots...but I had been there before, so I didn't get too excited. By the end of the treatment they were all still looking great. No ich since then at all!!! None of my corals or inverts had any ill effects at all. I did turn my skimmer off and didn't do a water change for two weeks (which did cause me to seriously twitch). I kept water ready for an emergency water change just in case, and tested at least every other day. Soooo...that's my ich story for what it's worth.
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MounteeFrag
Well-Known Member
He expired. I was treating him in a hospital tank and was looking fine no spots. He would not eat at all, blind as a bat. After about 2 weeks i noticed he looked like his slime coat was falling off of him and he was dragging it around with him. He was at the top of tank gasping for air. He expired about 5 minutes after that. Why he went blind i have no idea. I have read other articles where PB went blind on other forums, no one has an answer and the success rate doesn't look good. All my other fish are thriving and looking awesome. Good luck
FWIW; the reason tangs sometimes succumb to ich, while other fish survive, is they have a very thin slime/mucous coat protecting them from attacking parasites.
Tangs from the genus Acanthurus (ex. Powder Blue, Achilles) seem even more susceptible. Possibly because their slime/mucous coat is reduced even further in composition. Or possibly due to their need for high levels of O2 (in nature, they are usually found in crest zones); the parasites invades their gills, fluid builds up and they essentially suffocate to death. :sad:
Tangs from the genus Acanthurus (ex. Powder Blue, Achilles) seem even more susceptible. Possibly because their slime/mucous coat is reduced even further in composition. Or possibly due to their need for high levels of O2 (in nature, they are usually found in crest zones); the parasites invades their gills, fluid builds up and they essentially suffocate to death. :sad:
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