I run a HOB on my 20 gallon frag tank and it's my cleanest tank haha. I run Chemi pure blue in my HOB that's it. And I have a half a bottle with filter floss stuck to a power head for mechanical filtration. I just squeeze out the sponge every water change.
My 40 breeder has an Radion pro3 and a two bulb T-5 with an actinic and a blue plus.
Reef Octopus BH2000 or 1000. Depends on how stocked your tank is. I have 6 fish in a 40B with a BH1000. Does a great job!
Ahh the ole carbon filter. Here is the thing I figured out. Those don't last long at all 2 days to a week the most. Here is how you figure it out. Ask anyone who has a carbon reactor. When do they change their carbon. They will say every week. Now think about this. They have about 500x more carbon than what you have in that bag or filter slide cartridge. Pick yourself up a bottle of puregin. Get a bag that can hold super fine particles. Like a cross stitching. This is great for ammonia and nitrates. You pull it out every 6 months! Make sure it is a little loose in the bag so it tumbles. You can recharge it by bleaching it, but just spend the extra $20 and get a whole new bottle. It works like new and you don't have to mess with bleach or worry about leeching bleach in your tank. Get a block of Marine Pure and get a bread cutting knife. Cute block that will fit the canister. You just upped your Cnodes filtration by x4 because of the porosity and the Cnodes can only hold nitrites to help your beneficial bacteria to help process out ammonia into nitrates. Now what do you have that gets your nitrates out. Only water changes and your anaerobic bacteria that is in your LC(Live Rock). Put that Marine Pure in your filter and the porosity can harbor anaerobic bacteria to turn your nitrates into a gas form and finish off the cycle of the NO² before having to go back in your tank. So at the end of the week before a water change you won't be at 10ppm. You will be at 2ppm. A healthier tank and less worries. I cut a block for this fluval 30 and laid it down horizontal. I cut one for my fluval C4. I stuck one in the carbon bag holder slot vertically.
hell yea thanks for the great info!!Ahh the ole carbon filter. Here is the thing I figured out. Those don't last long at all 2 days to a week the most. Here is how you figure it out. Ask anyone who has a carbon reactor. When do they change their carbon. They will say every week. Now think about this. They have about 500x more carbon than what you have in that bag or filter slide cartridge. Pick yourself up a bottle of puregin. Get a bag that can hold super fine particles. Like a cross stitching. This is great for ammonia and nitrates. You pull it out every 6 months! Make sure it is a little loose in the bag so it tumbles. You can recharge it by bleaching it, but just spend the extra $20 and get a whole new bottle. It works like new and you don't have to mess with bleach or worry about leeching bleach in your tank. Get a block of Marine Pure and get a bread cutting knife. Cute block that will fit the canister. You just upped your Cnodes filtration by x4 because of the porosity and the Cnodes can only hold nitrites to help your beneficial bacteria to help process out ammonia into nitrates. Now what do you have that gets your nitrates out. Only water changes and your anaerobic bacteria that is in your LC(Live Rock). Put that Marine Pure in your filter and the porosity can harbor anaerobic bacteria to turn your nitrates into a gas form and finish off the cycle of the NO² before having to go back in your tank. So at the end of the week before a water change you won't be at 10ppm. You will be at 2ppm. A healthier tank and less worries. I cut a block for this fluval 30 and laid it down horizontal. I cut one for my fluval C4. I stuck one in the carbon bag holder slot vertically.
