Tank Levelling

[jmc64]

Hi All,

I’ve got a Reefsys 255 ordered so planning ahead for the setup day, would be great to get some advice on levelling it please

We have tiled floors which are definitely not level/even in places, the tiles are also textured.

The cabinet has ‘glider’ feet so I’m thinking I won’t put them on for a start.

This tank is going in the same place as my current tank so need all the equipment ready for moving day (the current tank is only a TMC first wave so much smaller and sits on a workbench, so had to shim under two of the feet.

I have no idea how out the flooring will be at this point, so should I just get shims again? (any recommendations on which shims, would be great), if I shim, how do I do it on a flat base cabinet? I had a few issues with the legs on the current one as the shims slid out on the tiled floor.

I should probably point out I’m in the UK

Thanks

 

[Gumbies R Us]

@Troylee

 

[Fish Fan]

I would use composite (non-wooden) shims, I would think you could find these in a local hardware store:

 

[jmc64]

I would use composite (non-wooden) shims, I would think you could find these in a local hardware store:

Thanks that’s what I thought, I’ve tried using these sort of things before, the only problem I have with them is a) they tend to slide all over the place, against the tiled floor b) how often do I have to space them out, what happens to the gaps underneath the cabinet where you can’t see, surely there must be small spaces where the cabinet doesn’t meet the floor, I’m probably overthinking that

Just a bit concerned as this is my first rimless tank and all the warnings about levelling to make sure it doesn’t cause stress on the tank silicone, twisting etc

 

[UncommonSense]

I have no idea how out the flooring will be at this point, so should I just get shims again?

Shims are definitely the easy solution! I’d recommend taking a nice long level (or a straight edge with a spirit level bubble set on it) to check the tile where the tank will go; side to side, and front to back to determine where the high spots are! (Your level will teeter on the high points, and have a air gap to show low points)

Find the highest corner, and shim everywhere but there until the stand is level!

any recommendations on which shims, would be great)

As @Fish Fan said, composite shims are a better bet than wood here, as wood will rot over time!

how do I do it on a flat base cabinet?

You’ll go around the perimeter, and ideally add a few under the center contact points for sump support! (Not fun, the stand needs to be tilted up to set shims in, then you slide them into place with a long thin DIY tool once the stand is set down and leveled out)

they tend to slide all over the place, against the tiled floor

You can use an adhesive if absolutely necessary, but the tank’s weight should serve to keep these shims in place if they’re snapped off flush!

how often do I have to space them out,

Best bet is spacing them every 3-4x shim width! So a 1.5” wide shim can get 4-6” of spacing between shims… less shims are necessary under the stand center than at the perimeter, simply because the sump is a much lighter tank!

what happens to the gaps underneath the cabinet where you can’t see

These inevitably just remain as gaps… when you look at the design of your stand, you’ll see that it transfers weight from the stand top to the ground via “pillars”, these “pillars” are the main focus, where the stand is load bearing between tank and ground!


Once the stand is perfectly leveled out, you can even use the likes of some wood/plastic quarter-round trim, or a bead of color matched silicone between bottom of stand and floor to hide the ugly shim edges, assuming the stand needs enough shimming for them to be visible!

 

[jmc64]

Shims are definitely the easy solution! I’d recommend taking a nice long level (or a straight edge with a spirit level bubble set on it) to check the tile where the tank will go; side to side, and front to back to determine where the high spots are! (Your level will teeter on the high points, and have a air gap to show low points)

Find the highest corner, and shim everywhere but there until the stand is level!



As @Fish Fan said, composite shims are a better bet than wood here, as wood will rot over time!



You’ll go around the perimeter, and ideally add a few under the center contact points for sump support! (Not fun, the stand needs to be tilted up to set shims in, then you slide them into place with a long thin DIY tool once the stand is set down and leveled out)


You can use an adhesive if absolutely necessary, but the tank’s weight should serve to keep these shims in place if they’re snapped off flush!


Best bet is spacing them every 3-4x shim width! So a 1.5” wide shim can get 4-6” of spacing between shims… less shims are necessary under the stand center than at the perimeter, simply because the sump is a much lighter tank!


These inevitably just remain as gaps… when you look at the design of your stand, you’ll see that it transfers weight from the stand top to the ground via “pillars”, these “pillars” are the main focus, where the stand is load bearing between tank and ground!


Once the stand is perfectly leveled out, you can even use the likes of some wood/plastic quarter-round trim, or a bead of color matched silicone between bottom of stand and floor to hide the ugly shim edges, assuming the stand needs enough shimming for them to be visible!

Thank you so much, that’s really helpful

So the shims under the middle of the cabinet are just to support any possible gaps underneath where the sump sits? That does sound a little tricky.

Your points about the pillars make sense, I know these cabinets are designed to take the weight and spread it evenly, I guess I’m just being a bit paranoid

 

[Troylee]

I would use composite (non-wooden) shims, I would think you could find these in a local hardware store:

Correct.