The All Used All in One 40g Cube

GoM_reefs

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Dirty secret time. I buy and sell used reef gear to support my hobby. Whether it's a full system, a cheap piece of gear from an upgrade, or a (fixable) broken piece of kit, a little bit of vinegar and "sweat equity" goes a long way to making an expensive hobby affordable. The general strategy is to roll either cash from refurbs or choice gear from full systems directly into my personal tanks. I want to make this series in part about the real costs, risks, and benefits of used gear and what is available in a medium (300k) city. I'll try to be as transparent as possible and talk about my experiences and how even a "free" (or profitable) reef really comes with work and time and whether it's the right path to take.

I've had a few tanks over the years, but I'm coming off 6 months without one due to travel and I have a big backlog of gear and an itch to tinker. So lets get a tank up.

A few things first.
1) This tank with be up for one year (March to March).
2) All the major gear will be used. Prices, condition, and source will be shared in the interest of sharing information.
3) I have no idea what I'm stocking yet, but tentatively planning either gorgonian heavy shallow Caribbean, macroalgae DT, or scorpaenid FOWLR. I don't think I take another Clown + File + Gramma stocklist.

Given the above, corals aren't something I'm interested in here. The short lifespan of the tank and the budget focus means getting a fleshed out reef tank would be impossible. On the other hand, the short life of the tank with an upgrade on the horizon also opens stocking a little bit. As long as I source juveniles, the 10 or so month residency in the tank allows for slightly larger fish than a permanent system of a similar size.

The tank.
No pictures early on, I didn't think to make a thread until the rock was already in but I'm using an Aquatop Recife Eco 40 with a beautiful piano black stand.

A previous owner graciously decided to drill bolts into the side of the stand to help with the Recife's notoriously terrible build quality, but failed to get long enough screws to actually make it through the panel to secure the pieces together. Fun times.
1677181884476.png

No worries. Bolt holes are against the wall, so no paint/filler needed, and brackets were installed inside the stand. Above is the sellers picture, no pictures from my quick fix. As an aside, the Recife stand wobble isn't really a problem when there's weight on it. As far as I can tell it's a from-the-factory issue and once it compresses down under load the furniture cams don't loosen. Regardless, a couple of brackets won't hurt. Otherwise, the tank is in great condition. No scratches on the tank or stand, acrylic isn't bad for used, and the seals are great. From new though, it's missing the lid, the light it came with, an apparently somewhat junk nano skimmer, and the return nozzle. The connector from the pump is also cracked and needs to be replaced. Tank + stand (delivered): $100, Jan 2023
Not bad off a retail of nearly $1k. Though it was technically free, given that (at least money wise) I traded a free Biocube for it.

On to the fixes.
As I mentioned the useless bolts were pulled out and while I was going to fill and paint, that side happens to be on a wall, so no fix needed. If you have an AquaTop Recife and are equaled annoyed by the lack of a bulkhead in the rear wall as I am, fear not. I've seen recommendations to drill and fit a 1/2in bulkhead, but it's not needed! The hole has an diameter nearly identical to a the OD of a 1/2 thread. I used a Rain Bird 1/2 right angle adapter ($0.75) with a female thread and an old male threaded return with an O-ring ($0.15) to make a water tight connection. This effectively upgrades the loose fit slip from Aquatop to a threaded 1/2 return that can accept Loc-line. A bit of scrap 1/2 hose finished the return.
IMG-1673.jpg IMG-1672.jpg

Above is how the two parts fit together, with the O-ring in between. The O-ring compresses due to the flange around the threads, similar to a bulkhead. It's not going to hold a ton of pressure, but that's not needed and I didn't have to drill.

Supporting equipment.
Skimmer: Reef Octopus Classic 100 HOB. Free, 2021
Wavemaker: IceCap 1k. Free, 2021
This came from a 40g system I broke down a couple of years ago for my reef tank. Livestock was 2ish square feet of GSP, some xenia, 30 pounds of heavily colonized live rock, some mushrooms, a Koran Angel and a Magnificent Foxface. The fish were rehomed (to much bigger tanks) and the corals were kept (and eventually sold last year when I broke the tank down). Equipment was a Kessil 160WE in ok condition, the skimmer and wavemaker, and a Tidal 75 which went on my 20 long nano reef. The tank, fish, and light covered the $300 paid for the system and then some, with the coral netting another $70. All together maybe ~$150 over what I paid.

Lighting: AI Prime 16HD (2). $125/ea, June 2022
Oh yeah, that time I got a pair of NIB AI primes for $250. They weren't stolen, I have the receipt. Which also means I also registered the warranties. No real comments, just a lucky snag. Facebook Marketplace, especially reef and aquarium keeping groups have bizarrely good deals sometimes.

Return: Came with the system.
Will probably upgrade in the future.

Heater: Eheim Jegar 150W. $25.99
I cheated, that one is new. Used heaters just aren't worth it.


And we're ready to go. All in is about $250, or $375 if I use both AI Primes (TBD with stocking), or even less if you use the same creative accounting I do to justify constantly buying stuff for "future" tanks. Next post is the scape, a full tank shot, and a colossal mistake that I'm procrastinating on fixing by writing this instead.
 
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GoM_reefs

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Very quick note for google on what I've learned researching and setting up this particular tank:

Do you have/want an AquaTop Recife 40?

- The stand is garbage. You can fix that buying buying better furniture cams, using wood glue, or internal brackets. Once it's filled though, it's fairly solid as stock. If you use brackets, use 1/2 screws with wide threads.

- You don't need to drill a bulkhead! If your AIO panel leaks into the pump chamber, or you want to upgrade the return, you can use a 1/2 thread with oversized O-rings on either side.
 
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GoM_reefs

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Rock!

Lot's of used rock that's been cured and in storage for a couple of years. I'm using a mix of Pukani and Reefsaver ($1/lb, 2020) and some random stuff thrown in from the hoard. Here's what I came up with as a first go, for reference the floor is 21" x 18":
IMG-1594.jpg

IMG-1595.jpg

IMG-1593.jpg

I love the big piece because of how open it is. The picture's really don't do justice to how complex the structure is with this batch of rock.

My last tank was bare bottom, but this time I would like a more natural look, and the option to keep invertebrates or jawfish. Because of this I'm going with some recycled Special Grade with a 1-1.5 inch depth. Since the rockwork is so nice, and the tank is taller than it is wide, I really don't want to loose any height on the rocks. I also want to have diggers, so space under the rocks is a bonus. Hence PVC risers:
IMG-1609.jpg IMG-1645.jpg

I used a pipe cutter to cut 1 inch sections of PVC and arranged them in a grid where I wanted the scape to be. I placed the rocks on top, then removed any loose PVC pieces. Then I placed more pieces where ever the rock was low, and added tall pieces where needed to stabilize. While I didn't use any glue or mortar, the rockwork is very stable. The hollow PVC interfaces with the bottom of the rock and locks in. Here's the final result:
IMG-1651.jpg


And a close up of a cut-to-size support:
IMG-1647.jpg


Sand added, with the full tank shot:
IMG-1666.jpg

IMG-1660.jpg



If you're familiar with the AIO Chamber on the Recife 40 you may catch the mistake I'm making in the FTS. That middle chamber I have the skimmer in? At the time I didn't realize it has a variable water level. The RO 100 HOB has an in tank pump, and that's the only chamber it can go in because of it's size. That means that whenever the water in the pump chamber gets low, the skimmer pump with run dry and cook. I could pick up a better skimmer; the 90HOB, 1000HOB, and AquaMaxx 1.5 all have external pumps, but there's no fun in spending $300 on a new skimmer. This might be a macro tank anyways.

For now, I've decided I'll use an off cut of the glass lid I'm making to install a baffle to keep an even level in that chamber. The intention of AquaTop seems to be to use that chamber as a wet/dry sump, since that's where they keep the media baskets. I've seen other users complain about the variable levels in that chamber and be confused, but it seems intentional, if a little weird, that the water doesn't full cover the media.
 
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GoM_reefs

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Oh and regarding the PVC. To drill or not to drill. I see a lot of people drilling holes in PVC risers to help with water flow. I opted against it because of the amount of work, and how small the pieces are. They're mostly filled with sand, and I think the anoxic areas with be negligible long term.

Secondly. Used sand binds Phosphate. I'm aware of this and plan to carefully monitor my phosphate and will be running phosguard as needed. Regardless of the stocking, there will be some macros which should mitigate any long term phosphate seep from the sand.
 
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Gumbies R Us

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Rock!

Lot's of used rock that's been cured and in storage for a couple of years. I'm using a mix of Pukani and Reefsaver ($1/lb, 2020) and some random stuff thrown in from the hoard. Here's what I came up with as a first go, for reference the floor is 21" x 18":
IMG-1594.jpg

IMG-1595.jpg

IMG-1593.jpg

I love the big piece because of how open it is. The picture's really don't do justice to how complex the structure is with this batch of rock.

My last tank was bare bottom, but this time I would like a more natural look, and the option to keep invertebrates or jawfish. Because of this I'm going with some recycled Special Grade with a 1-1.5 inch depth. Since the rockwork is so nice, and the tank is taller than it is wide, I really don't want to loose any height on the rocks. I also want to have diggers, so space under the rocks is a bonus. Hence PVC risers:
IMG-1609.jpg IMG-1645.jpg

I used a pipe cutter to cut 1 inch sections of PVC and arranged them in a grid where I wanted the scape to be. I placed the rocks on top, then removed any loose PVC pieces. Then I placed more pieces where ever the rock was low, and added tall pieces where needed to stabilize. While I didn't use any glue or mortar, the rockwork is very stable. The hollow PVC interfaces with the bottom of the rock and locks in. Here's the final result:
IMG-1651.jpg


And a close up of a cut-to-size support:
IMG-1647.jpg


Sand added, with the full tank shot:
IMG-1666.jpg

IMG-1660.jpg



If you're familiar with the AIO Chamber on the Recife 40 you may catch the mistake I'm making in the FTS. That middle chamber I have the skimmer in? At the time I didn't realize it has a variable water level. The RO 100 HOB has an in tank pump, and that's the only chamber it can go in because of it's size. That means that whenever the water in the pump chamber gets low, the skimmer pump with run dry and cook. I could pick up a better skimmer; the 90HOB, 1000HOB, and AquaMaxx 1.5 all have external pumps, but there's no fun in spending $300 on a new skimmer. This might be a macro tank anyways.

For now, I've decided I'll use an off cut of the glass lid I'm making to install a baffle to keep an even level in that chamber. The intention of AquaTop seems to be to use that chamber as a wet/dry sump, since that's where they keep the media baskets. I've seen other users complain about the variable levels in that chamber and be confused, but it seems intentional, if a little weird, that the water doesn't full cover the media.
Nice looking aquascape!!
 
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GoM_reefs

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Quick update: I had the glass cut last week and filled!

Baffle was installed bringing the system up to 3 chambers and adds a bubble trap between the skimmer and the return pump.
IMG-1679.jpg

Also, new lid to replace the missing one. Since I upgraded the lights, I think I would have had to replace the lid regardless. I'm using 1/8in glass here with I'm sure I'll regret, but it's cheap, clear, and works.
IMG-1681.jpg


Filled:
IMG-1774.jpg
 

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All this lady does with her 20 gallon tank is two 5 gallon water changes a week. Even though I think they admit the water is from one of the larger tanks at their store. Seems pretty simple I think?
 
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GoM_reefs

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Updates:

3/24/23
IMG-1916.jpg

Above pic is a just around 4 weeks since fill.

Right after the last update post I added Bio Spira and potassium nitrate to kick the cycle off. The following week I added a softball chunk of C. racemosa with a bit of C. serrata tangled in, and about 40 dwarf cerriths I collected locally. The ugly phase went quick, a couple days of diatoms, followed by an algae bloom and then an explosion of copepods, all in about 5 days. The copepods and cerriths have been eating what little algae is able to growth. I'd call that the ugly phase skipped.

At week 3 I received an order of gorgonians from Gulf Coast Ecosystems:
70130302189--E15AB286-95FD-42F7-AF1F-C2ADA6456367.jpg 70130301386--43550257-C667-455A-8A36-3E33F02FFD65.jpg

All I can say is that I'm ridiculously impressed. Healthy, big, beautiful and cheap.

And here's the tank (in need of a trim) today after picking up some feather dusters:
IMG-2016.jpg


The cerriths have spawned successfully and baby snails are covering the tank and I've seen good growth in the gorgonians, as well as some growth in the halimeda. The copepod population has decline significantly, but there's still a smattering on the glass. So far, the tank is at 8 weeks with no water changes.
 

Reefing threads: Do you wear gear from reef brands?

  • I wear reef gear everywhere.

    Votes: 17 15.3%
  • I wear reef gear primarily at fish events and my LFS.

    Votes: 6 5.4%
  • I wear reef gear primarily for water changes and tank maintenance.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I wear reef gear primarily to relax where I live.

    Votes: 18 16.2%
  • I don’t wear gear from reef brands.

    Votes: 62 55.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 8 7.2%
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