The SPS Q&A Thread.

[SunnyX]

We did and nothing had changed unless it was fixed before we tested

That's interesting. I wonder if perhaps your lighting may have remained on for an extended period of time? Frankly, corals bleaching can be caused by almost anything. So long as your parameters are in check I would simply monitor the system and look for anything out of the ordinary. As a precaution, a fresh bag of carbon could help. Whenever I've had a mysterious issue I'd add fresh carbon to rule out any foreign containment.

You should place the frags of the survivors at or near the sand bed for a few days. Allow the corals to brown out and rebuild. Once youve seen positive growth you can place them in the desired location of your choice.

Good luck and please keep us posted.

 

[Ericka Sauls]

That's interesting. I wonder if perhaps your lighting may have remained on for an extended period of time? Frankly, corals bleaching can be caused by almost anything. So long as your parameters are in check I would simply monitor the system and look for anything out of the ordinary. As a precaution, a fresh bag of carbon could help. Whenever I've had a mysterious issue I'd add fresh carbon to rule out any foreign containment.

You should place the frags of the survivors at or near the sand bed for a few days. Allow the corals to brown out and rebuild. Once youve seen positive growth you can place them in the desired location of your choice.

Good luck and please keep us posted.

Thanks what does brown out mean they both look like they are turning brown I just thought that was because they were dead, but throughout them I see the fluorescent green cloves the other one was a gold and green bird of paradise and those I only see brown cloves

 

[SunnyX]

Thanks what does brown out mean they both look like they are turning brown I just thought that was because they were dead, but throughout them I see the fluorescent green cloves the other one was a gold and green bird of paradise and those I only see brown cloves

A coral under stress or placed in a less than ideal environment will "brown out" . The brown that you see is zooxanthellae, the symbiotic algae that feeds the corals. Zooxanthellae is naturally brown and will rapidly multiply when a coral is under stress or receiving minimal light. The colors you see in corals are in response to lighting. There are more in depth articles out there that can better explain it.

 

[Ericka Sauls]

A coral under stress or placed in a less than ideal environment will "brown out" . The brown that you see is zooxanthellae, the symbiotic algae that feeds the corals. Zooxanthellae is naturally brown and will rapidly multiply when a coral is under stress or receiving minimal light. The colors you see in corals are in response to lighting. There are more in depth articles out there that can better explain it.

So does that mean it isn't yet a goner

 

[bobman]

I doubt it is the nitrates. My tank is SPS dominate and actually has the best colors and growth at 10ppm+ of N03 and currently has been at 25-30ppm for 3 months. The SPS in question looks like a deeper water version and is more than likely bleaching. I would reduce the whites and blues or move it down lower to acclimate for a few weeks.

White are as low as it can go. I dropped it to the sand bed and shortened the white light cycle to 4 hrs. Has not seemed to get any better but has not got worse so we will see. Thanks for the responses

 

[Tek]

White are as low as it can go. I dropped it to the sand bed and shortened the white light cycle to 4 hrs. Has not seemed to get any better but has not got worse so we will see. Thanks for the responses

It may take a few weeks to really show improvements in color. Don't worry if it browns a bit which is easier to recover from than a total bleaching.

 

[ColaAddict]

Help. What is the minimum/optimum time I need to run Metal Halides (radiums) to keep good color on SPS? I'm thinking of switching to halides, but I don't want to run more than I have to, to conserve energy and heat.

 

[bobman]

6 hours should be good. I know some that have them on for 4 hours but I would go with 6

 

[SunnyX]

Help. What is the minimum/optimum time I need to run Metal Halides (radiums) to keep good color on SPS? I'm thinking of switching to halides, but I don't want to run more than I have to, to conserve energy and heat.

Hello,

From my experience, 4 hours WITH supplemental lighting would be the minimum. The length of photoperiod can vary widely due to many factors including and not limited to coral placement, water clarity, and the spectrum/power of bulb used.

In my experience with Radiums you'll need at least 6 hours with supplements in order to get the corals growing and coloring up correctly. With an XM10K bulb I was able to run the main bulbs for only 4 hours a day. In combination with VHO supplements I was able to properly light my corals.

What are you currently using to light your system? If you don't currently own a MH lighting system then you may want to look at LED or T5 if you're looking to cut down on costs/energy.

 

[Tek]

Help. What is the minimum/optimum time I need to run Metal Halides (radiums) to keep good color on SPS? I'm thinking of switching to halides, but I don't want to run more than I have to, to conserve energy and heat.

I have found 8 hours to be sufficient. 4 hours was definitely not enough and 6 hours was the minimum. Any longer than 8 and I do not see any benefits. This was with a 250w and now a 400w Radium at 8 hours.

 

[httorihanzo]

Sunny, have you made the switch to LED's yet? I am setting up a brand new 375 and right now just have 3, 250W halide pendants for temp light while the system matures. Before I start adding SPS I want to ramp up my lighting and am having trouble deciding what direction to go. I guess if you (or anyone else who wants to chime in) were setting up a brand new dream tank for the sol purpose of having the best SPS tank you can which lighting would you chose?

 

[SunnyX]

Sunny, have you made the switch to LED's yet? I am setting up a brand new 375 and right now just have 3, 250W halide pendants for temp light while the system matures. Before I start adding SPS I want to ramp up my lighting and am having trouble deciding what direction to go. I guess if you (or anyone else who wants to chime in) were setting up a brand new dream tank for the sol purpose of having the best SPS tank you can which lighting would you chose?

Hello,

With the new in wall reef I will be using 250w MH XM10K bulbs in LumenArc III reflectors. For supplements I'll be using 2-4 54w ATI Blue+ T5 Bulbs.

I had thought about running all T5 but it wouldn't be worth it at this point as I already have many MH reflectors, ballasts, and bulbs.

I had looked into LED lighting but have been disappointed in the coloration of SPS when I've seen them in person. I've seen some beautiful LED setups, but I feel that the colors are lacking. Plus, id rather not deal with adjusting and tuning the lights. Not to mention that every LED user I've known eventually had to retrofit in some T5's in order to keep the SPS happy.

With a tank the size of the one you're setting up it'd be best to stick to MH. You already have the lights and they will grow and color SPS with maximum effect. If you really want to try something different then I would suggest going with an all T5 setup. But, on a large tank it can get expensive.

For reference here is a shot of XM10K MH with ATI Blue+ over one of my older setups:

 

[httorihanzo]

Thanks sunny, awesome colors on your tank above. I'm going to stick with MH and supplement. I wonder if 2 60" t5's would be enough as I am not sure I have room for 4?

 

[SunnyX]

Thanks sunny, awesome colors on your tank above. I'm going to stick with MH and supplement. I wonder if 2 60" t5's would be enough as I am not sure I have room for 4?

Thanks. Yes, two 60" bulbs would be sufficient. Depending on the MH bulb you may want to use two Blue+ or an Aquablue Special and a Blue+.

What are the dimensions of you 375gl?

Thank you,

Sonny

 

[httorihanzo]

84X32X32. I have 3 lumenbright fixtures running side by side which gives me about 6 inches in front and 6 behind to run t5 bulbs. Most retrofit kits I've seen are 2 bulbs and 5-7" wide. this would be pushing light out in front and in back of the tank.

 

[SunnyX]

84X32X32. I have 3 lumenbright fixtures running side by side which gives me about 6 inches in front and 6 behind to run t5 bulbs. Most retrofit kits I've seen are 2 bulbs and 5-7" wide. this would be pushing light out in front and in back of the tank.

Yes, if you are not using close canopy then you will have some light spilling out. Best bet would be to place one bulb in the front and one in the back. Good luck with the new setup.

 

[Bryce Peterson]

I have this millepora. The polyps on the base are really brown. I was wondering if this is something to be concerned about. It is in a med light/high flow area under leds. Ca: 460, Alk:7.8 Mg: 1600 Salinity: 1.027

 

[SunnyX]

I have this millepora. The polyps on the base are really brown. I was wondering if this is something to be concerned about. It is in a med light/high flow area under leds. Ca: 460, Alk:7.8 Mg: 1600 Salinity: 1.027

Hello,

Browning at the base of sps is normal and perfectly acceptable. Sps bases often brown out, and under extreme growth with white out and wither at the base. So long as there is polyp extension and no loss of flesh I wouldn't worry.

Your parameters are slightly higher than normal, but if everything else is healthy and in line you'll be fine. Just don't go any higher than 1.027 on your specific gravity /salinity.

 

[mcarroll]

My suspicion on this is that it's a lack of nutrients or other food in the water. Assuming your parameters are where you want them, I don't think there's much you can reasonably do about this. Just good to know.

 

[mcarroll]

I do agree your parameters are a little skewed calcium magnesium and salinity are all a bit high compared to alkalinity. Check out the reef chemistry calculator and put your info in to see "balanced" numbers you can and should shoot for.

For example, if you want to keep alkalinity at about 8.0, then you would want calcium of 420 and magnesium of about 1325. But you probably want to correct salinity and re-test before doing anything.

At the reef chemistry calculator you may hold for anyone of the values and calculate the rest.