The Ultimate 300 Gallon Tenecor® Build. It Begins with a Blank Piece of Paper.

Minifoot77

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After further FB from the client, we are looking at a two access opening design with a center mount OF. The drains will be dual 1 inch and the returns will be dual 3/4 inch. Each return will be independent with its own Sicce SDC pump. Tank walls are 1/2 inch and the top will be thicker at 3/4 inch. The OF will have weirs on three sides with 1/8 inch by 1-1/2 inch slots. Adjustable black polycarb gates on all sides. Two 2 inch thru holes, one each in the back corners will allow for wave makers, margarita blenders or other in tank accessories. Returns will be on both short walls. The OF will also have a separate black polycarb lid. Black back. The images are split views, the top pattern and the corresponding drill pattern of the bottom panel.

TENECOR SIGNATURE 96X24X30 CENTER OF 2 OPENINGS.png
TENECOR SIGNATURE 96X24X30 CENTER OF 4 OPENINGS.png
Diy margarita blender now we are talkin...
 
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Diy margarita blender now we are talkin...
Last time I saw one of these was a gasoline powered blender strapped to the back of a three wheeled ATV on a beach Rocky Point Mexico. The guy would start it up and make 5 gallon batches. This is also where I saw the senoritas on roller blades (remember those?) wearing bikinis and Wagner power painter backpacks full of sun tan oil. Ah, the good ole days.
 

exnisstech

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Tank walls are 1/2 inch
Just curious how much deflection 1/2 is going to have. I was looking into a 96x30x24 acrylic build and two builders I talked to said they would not use anything less than 3/4".

EDIT : Just curious not critiquing as I have no personal experience with acrylic tanks
 
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Just curious how much deflection 1/2 is going to have. I was looking into a 96x30x24 acrylic build and two builders I talked to said they would not use anything less than 3/4".
I was waiting for this question to come up (again). Please see below. And one more thing, This tank we will fill with water and everyone can see for themselves. Below is a cut and paste of a previous post.

First off, let's be clear that deflection is not the same as bowing. Bowing as we use it in the acrylic aquarium vernacular indicates an undesirable outward curvature of the panels, usually the walls and sometimes the bottom. The top of an acrylic tank can also bow but almost always Inward/downward. Deflection on the other hand is much less noticeable and not something to concerned with. Even glass tanks will deflect to some degree but much less. Bowing can be the result of various factors or a combination of factors. The first reason that comes to most people's minds is the acrylic was too thin. While this can indeed be a reason for bowing, it may not be the only reason or the main reason at all. Back to this in a minute.

In addition to under-gauge acrylic, using continuous cast (AKA extruded) acrylic will also result in bowing as well as stress creep and crazing. This material should never be used in an aquarium build although it is often used in sumps, shelves and similar applications. Even in these types of applications it is not recommended.

Back to your question. Acrylic tanks need to be thought of as systems. The walls, top and bottom all play important roles in the entire structure of the tank they comprise. Most people intuitively think by simply making the walls thicker they will reduce or eliminate bowing. This is not always the case. The top and the bottom (supported by a full stand deck rather than a perimeter stand) play crucial roles. Acrylic seams are chemical bonds when properly formed are as strong as the acrylic sheet itself. When a top or ONE PIECE perimeter brace is attached to the walls it helps prevent bowing/deflection by holding the walls in 90 degree angles to the top. The water pressure will want to push the walls outward and if the top was too thin or not meaty enough it would deflect downward into the tank. This also applies to the bottom of the aquarium as well. Sidenote; while not recommended, you can theoretically make the bottom out of ridiculously thin acrylic and as long as it is fully supported there would be no concern for seam failure. Theoretically, not practically. Back to the top. Many DIY guys often attempt to piece together the tops in some fashion or other by laying them out akin to dominoes with rudimentary butt seams. Or they will simply place a piece across the top in three places from front to back. All are recipes for failure. Successful construction requires the top of an acrylic tank to be made from a single piece of material with the openings thoughtfully designed and cut out, leaving enough material to prevent that downward bowing from the water pressure on the walls.

But how thick should the walls be? Now we can attempt to answer that. As I have repeated many times over ad nasuem, we were the first company to develop and build hobbyist acrylic aquariums. There was no internet. There were no YouTube videos. Trial and error at first, then methodologies and processes. Last night a member @oreo54 posted this >> https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/a...lding-acrylic-aquariums.1032690/post-12166762

It referenced an online thickness calculator published by a manufacturer of acrylic sheet. I did not mention it at the time but over 45 years ago, Tenecor was the company Rohm & Haas (Plexiglas) contacted in helping to establish these calculations. At the time we were the second largest buyer of acrylic west of the Mississippi with Boeing being the largest. We were working very closely with the engineers at R&H to develop those calculations. Based on our experience, we came up with thickness references based on the size and more importantly, the height of the aquarium. The tanks you are talking about is a perfect example of our reference guidelines. So here is the summary: up to 20 inches, 1/4, 24 inches, 3/8, 30 inches 1/2, 36 inches 3/4 and above that, we enter the "it depends" zone. There are exceptions to these guidelines. But every time I see a post about "how thick acrylic do i need...." I know there will be a conversation. Please feel free to ask any questions as I did not fully answer yours. Suffice to say that neither size you mentioned should bow/deflect out of the norm since they would be made from different gauge acrylics.
 

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A good 300 will use 3/4" , 3/4" is more pleasing to the eye and stronger , 1/2" will work , 3/8" would be stupendous". After acquiring a used acrylic beast , the seams are not bomb proof , so the 1/2"180 has a perfect welded top seam , the bottom seams are gone , so the weld is no way as strong as builders claim, lol , tenecore can respond
 
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KrisReef

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Quite excited about getting this going! The process is going just as fun as the end result!

A little back ground info on me. I started in the hobby in 1995, with the purchase of a 58 gallon Oceanic reef ready tank. Been through many tanks, a few 90 gallon, 120 and finally a 160. All glass tanks. Have had many fish....my two oldest a Sailfin Tang lived to be 20.5 years and his buddy, a Chevron Tang to 19 years. A few corals and an anemone have made it along the way. Suffice it to say, I love the hobby.

I have a few tanks up and running now. The issue is that I have a 2019 Gen 1 Red Sea 750 XXL. Before you ask, yes, it still has water in it and it is running. Before you ask again, yes, I think about it all the time.

Honestly, I never thought going acrylic. I always heard the same thing...it scratches easily. Over time that will be large enough to make a large portion of the panel not as clear, etc. I heard it in 1995 and I heard it yesterday. Do I believe it? you bet I do. However, you talk to some of the people here, who have owned them...Some will never go back to glass. Some will. It's liking reading google reviews. So, I decided to see some for myself. Most were amazing. Some were 20+ plus years old. Some had a few scratches, some not at all. Hell, I have scratches in a glass tank. The strength and lighter weight really sold me. My friends who used to help me carry those 200 gallon glass tanks around are now old enough that the only thing they lift is a fork.

I saw Tenecor Aquariums threads and started asking questions. Questions about bowing, deflection, height versus width stress. All the normal questions glass people ask of acrylic people. The owner answered all of them, and more importantly, took the time to answer them thoroughly. The kind of stuff I really like in people I do business with. He showed pics of the prototypes of the new stands coming up and I was intrigued. Not crazy stuff but things that some of you could do, with some time and the right equipment, and the most important part, you have the skill to do so. Me, not so much. I reached out to Tenecor and explained the situation with my existing tank and my concerns about getting the tank on order now and waiting for the new stand. Just figuring it was more of a timing issue than anything else and did he think the timing would work. Well, he took my question and turned it into what you will see here.

So now, I am ordering a 96x24x30 tank from Tenecor Aquariums, along with their new Signature Series Magnum stands that are due to come out shortly. Why 96" long? Well, my tangs are always telling me they want a longer tank to stretch their fins, so why not make them happier? I went 30" high simply because I think a tank that long looks very short at 24". Tenecor will keep everyone up to date on the manufacturing of the tank and stand I will cover the actual install, filling, and stocking of this tank. Goal of the tank is to become an LPS dominated reef, along with clams. Gotta love the clams! This isn't going to be a "Pimp my tank" kinda of thing. I hope we build and install items that make it easier to keep and maintain a tank of this size without having to sell my kids. Wait, on second thought.....

Once again, a huge thanks to Tenecor Aquariums for aiding and abetting an old reefer!
I have also noticed that Tenecor takes a lot of time to provide answers and to follow-up on answers to questions that people ask about aquarium construction. I agree that these are the kinds of vendors we all love to work with.

Me being a stickler for details, I wanted to ask a question about the premise, "It begins with a blank piece of paper." I understand the statement, but wondered if it was truely a blank piece of paper or if it was on Tenecor letterhead? Where I work we always have to becareful how our letters and emails are presented to the public, using proper stationary, etc.

I know it's a dumb question, and has almost zero impact on the outcome, but my brain always gets wrapped around these kinds of details, especially when they are in writing.

That aside, this is a cool build thread and it should be fun to follow and see how it comes together.

Bbc Pbs GIF by Sherlock
:thinking-face: :smiling-face-with-sunglasses: Letterhead? Thanks
 
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I have also noticed that Tenecor takes a lot of time to provide answers and to follow-up on answers to questions that people ask about aquarium construction. I agree that these are the kinds of vendors we all love to work with.

Me being a stickler for details, I wanted to ask a question about the premise, "It begins with a blank piece of paper." I understand the statement, but wondered if it was truely a blank piece of paper or if it was on Tenecor letterhead? Where I work we always have to becareful how our letters and emails are presented to the public, using proper stationary, etc.

I know it's a dumb question, and has almost zero impact on the outcome, but my brain always gets wrapped around these kinds of details, especially when they are in writing.

That aside, this is a cool build thread and it should be fun to follow and see how it comes together.

Bbc Pbs GIF by Sherlock
:thinking-face: :smiling-face-with-sunglasses: Letterhead? Thanks
Letterhead? I heard about that. FYI, we don't even have business cards. But we do document all designs, their revisions, emails, orders and customer contacts.
 
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I have also noticed that Tenecor takes a lot of time to provide answers and to follow-up on answers to questions that people ask about aquarium construction. I agree that these are the kinds of vendors we all love to work with.

Me being a stickler for details, I wanted to ask a question about the premise, "It begins with a blank piece of paper." I understand the statement, but wondered if it was truely a blank piece of paper or if it was on Tenecor letterhead? Where I work we always have to becareful how our letters and emails are presented to the public, using proper stationary, etc.

I know it's a dumb question, and has almost zero impact on the outcome, but my brain always gets wrapped around these kinds of details, especially when they are in writing.

That aside, this is a cool build thread and it should be fun to follow and see how it comes together.

Bbc Pbs GIF by Sherlock
:thinking-face: :smiling-face-with-sunglasses: Letterhead? Thanks
It really does start like that. I am proficient in Solidworks but like to sit with an Ipad and sketch up stuff for the design guys. See below.
20240226_171620559_iOS.png
 

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Very nice. I’m planning a 200 myself and Tenecor keeps catching my eye. This’ll be good to watch.
 

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After further FB from the client, we are looking at a two access opening design with a center mount OF. The drains will be dual 1 inch and the returns will be dual 3/4 inch. Each return will be independent with its own Sicce SDC pump. Tank walls are 1/2 inch and the top will be thicker at 3/4 inch. The OF will have weirs on three sides with 1/8 inch by 1-1/2 inch slots. Adjustable black polycarb gates on all sides. Two 2 inch thru holes, one each in the back corners will allow for wave makers, margarita blenders or other in tank accessories. Returns will be on both short walls. The OF will also have a separate black polycarb lid. Black back. The images are split views, the top pattern and the corresponding drill pattern of the bottom panel.

TENECOR SIGNATURE 96X24X30 CENTER OF 2 OPENINGS.png
TENECOR SIGNATURE 96X24X30 CENTER OF 4 OPENINGS.png
Sweet build. Can't wait to see how this turns out. If someone wanted to get larger access holes in the top is there any way to do it? Could you use thicker acrylic or metal bracing? my only gripe with acrylic tanks, the top access is so restricted. I had an acrylic 55 and even that small of a tank it's just a pain to work in.
 
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KrisReef

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It really does start like that. I am proficient in Solidworks but like to sit with an Ipad and sketch up stuff for the design guys. See below.
20240226_171620559_iOS.png
The kids I work with always make fun of me because I mark up paper copies instead of working solely upon the laptop. ( I also us MS Paint with color font/lines to make first notes/drawing improvements, similar to what you posted on (blank!) paper.)

Thanks again for the reply and this thread in general. :smiling-face-with-sunglasses:
 
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Sweet build. Can't wait to see how this turns out. If someone wanted to get larger access holes in topcis there any way to do it? Could you use thicker acrylic or metal bracing? my only gripe with acrylic tanks, the top access is so restricted. I had an acrylic 55 and even that small of a tank it's just a pain to work in.
A 55 is narrow to begin with so access holes are limited. In this thread, we are going with two larger access holes instead of the normal four by increasing the top thickness.
 

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I own a tenecor 55 made with 1/4" from the 90's still going , no crazing on lower seam welds at all , yes it flexes and looks cheap lol
Throw up a picture. This is exactly what I want to see. Older tenecor tanks that have been running for over 10yrs
 

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It really does start like that. I am proficient in Solidworks but like to sit with an Ipad and sketch up stuff for the design guys. See below.
20240226_171620559_iOS.png
Funny as I had many of these Tenecor quotes from years ago. Wish I would have kept them. You guys have been around for a while.
 

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Throw up a picture. This is exactly what I want to see. Older tenecor tanks that have been running for over 10yrs
Wish I would have kept some photos of some of the ones I had. Oldest I installed that was still setup was 04' 170 bowfront but I am no longer in contact with them. Would have been good for nostalgia
 
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A good 300 will use 3/4" , 3/4" is more pleasing to the eye and stronger , 1/2" will work , 3/8" would be stupendous". After acquiring a used acrylic beast , the seams are not bomb proof , so the 1/2"180 has a perfect welded top seam , the bottom seams are gone , so the weld is no way as strong as builders claim, lol , tenecore can respond
I normally don't even answer these types of posts and I don't mean you any disrespect. "a good 300" what exactly does that mean? are we talking about a 120x48x12? or is it a 72x36x30? or a 60x48x24? or maybe 48x48x30? each one of these will require a different design approach. "3/4 is more pleasing" why would that be the case? one of the biggest selling features of acrylic tanks is their lightweight and their refractive index being close to the same as water (no distortion, more clarity) why not make these from 1-1/2 inch thick or maybe even 3 inch thick? stands to reason thicker means stronger right? well, not exactly. "a used acrylic beast"? not all acrylic tanks are equal. sounds like a backyard cowboy's creation. anyone can learn how to play chess or golf. few become masters. "as strong as builders claim"? who? 1/2" will work, 3/8 is would be stupendous" 3/8 is thinner than 1/2 inch. so there. you got me. i took the bait.
 

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