The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

[Greenstreet.1]

I have been told it's not a problem I will be adding my first flasher to my fairy tank soon. I have a velvet now he's the king of the tank little aggressive when he's ready. Scotts are aggressive but may work out for you make sure you use a acclimation box when adding to the tank

 

[eatbreakfast]

Question on fairy compatibility:

I have a long-established red velvet fairy wrasse, about 4 - 4.5" long, as well as a smaller (~3.5") exquisite fairy in a 260 FOWLR. They have no issues with each other. My LFS has a gorgeous Australian Scott's fairy wrasse that is really tempting me. It is a big boy - about 5 or 5.5" - as large a fairy as I've seen - and eating well. I have a social acclimation box I can use for a day or two to facilitate the introduction, but is this just a bad idea regardless, or if done properly are they likely to make peace, or at least reach a detente?

LFS also has a good-sized McCoskers I was considering. I've never kept a flasher wrasse before, but will they mix okay with fairies? Will they flash in the presence of fairies, or do you need a harem of flashers for that to happen?

In a tank your size, and with using a social acclimation box, it should be fine. Scott's are one of the most aggressive fairies, but red velvets can hold their own too.

Flashers mix well with fairies, and will flash roght at them.

 

[Greenstreet.1]

Can't wait to add my flashers

 

[Ben jammin]

Will the exquisite become collateral damage?

I've never had a flasher wrasse so I've never seen them flash. I've heard it is pretty cool. I know McCoskers are pretty common and inexpensive, which I like because I don't want a spend a lot on a genus of fish I've never kept before. But how does the McCoskers compare to some of the other reasonably priced flashers in terms of visual appeal? Anything you'd recommend instead?

 

[Duke4Life]

Will the exquisite become collateral damage?

I've never had a flasher wrasse so I've never seen them flash. I've heard it is pretty cool. I know McCoskers are pretty common and inexpensive, which I like because I don't want a spend a lot on a genus of fish I've never kept before. But how does the McCoskers compare to some of the other reasonably priced flashers in terms of visual appeal? Anything you'd recommend instead?

Can't go wrong, should be peaceful. I have a carpenter's flasher with a c.f. cyanopleura and a pink margin with 0 issues. Have a small mccosker in quarantine. Great fish flashers are.

 

[Greenstreet.1]

Great fish I have a carpenter in qt now can't wait to add to my fairy tank just gave them a second dose of prazi.

 

[eatbreakfast]

Agreed with the previous 2 comments. Just use a social acclimation box for introducing a new wrasse to an established one.

 

[KDawg0623]

Silly question. We are going to purchase a social ferry wrasse. also a diamond back goby. Will we have any problems with quarantining them together? Also, what other wrasses can we have with a social ferry wrasse without any aggression? Thank you

 

[evolved]

Very nice, does your melanurus wrasse dig itself into sand bed, I want one so bad but my new build is going to be bb.

All Halichoeres wrasses sleep in the sand. If you have a BB tank, you will need a container with sand in the tank if you want to keep one.

but is this just a bad idea regardless, or if done properly are they likely to make peace, or at least reach a detente?

I usually error on the side of caution, so personally I wouldn't do it.

Will the exquisite become collateral damage?

And basically for that reason. While the red velvet and scott's will probably work out okay, I'm not sure how the exquisite would end up fairing.

LFS also has a good-sized McCoskers I was considering. I've never kept a flasher wrasse before, but will they mix okay with fairies? Will they flash in the presence of fairies, or do you need a harem of flashers for that to happen?

Yes; the two genera mix fine and you'll get flashing between them as they interact.

 

[evolved]

Silly question. We are going to purchase a social ferry wrasse. also a diamond back goby. Will we have any problems with quarantining them together? Also, what other wrasses can we have with a social ferry wrasse without any aggression? Thank you

No concerns about QT'ing together.
As for other wrasses, those of the Paracheilinus, Macropharyngodon, Halichoeres, and most other Cirrhilabrus genera would mix together just fine.

 

[Greenstreet.1]

? For are you wrasse lovers if you had a all wrasse tank what other type of fish would you add (I have a sailfin in for algae control already )

 

[Confuse]

Got this guy this morning from Diver's Den!

 

[KDawg0623]

No concerns about QT'ing together.
As for other wrasses, those of the Paracheilinus, Macropharyngodon, Halichoeres, and most other Cirrhilabrus genera would mix together just fine.

Thank you evolved

 

[alton]

Zoacollector.com have some nice flashers he's also one of the great vendors we have on here I got my flame pair and chevron tang from him they all came eating right out the bag. I will be getting my rhomboids from him.

Is your flame pair fairly docile? The reason for the question is I want to add a pair to my wife's jawfish tank. The problem with most wrasses is they are vacuum cleaners and the jawfish would not get enough food.

 

[Greenstreet.1]

My pair is very good no fighting or aggression

 

[alton]

Thanks

 

[Greenstreet.1]

Anytime

 

[MJC]

Also, I have never done a drip acclimation on a wrasse which exceeded an hour, and I believe any acclimation periods longer than such can be more harmful than helpful.

Hi evolved I have a question about drip acclimation time.
My lfs keeps their salinity at 1.019. I slow drip to bring up to 1.026 with the bag in my sump to keep temp. and it usually takes 2-3 hours.
In your opinion do you think it is less stressful to change the salinity from 1.019-1.026 in such a short time then to leave them in a bag for 2-3 hours?
I haven't had a problem yet dooing it my current way(knock on wood) but in the effort to create less stress I appreciate your feedback.

Thanks ;)

 

[4FordFamily]

Hi evolved I have a question about drip acclimation time.
My lfs keeps their salinity at 1.019. I slow drip to bring up to 1.026 with the bag in my sump to keep temp. and it usually takes 2-3 hours.
In your opinion do you think it is less stressful to change the salinity from 1.019-1.026 in such a short time then to leave them in a bag for 2-3 hours?
I haven't had a problem yet dooing it my current way(knock on wood) but in the effort to create less stress I appreciate your feedback.

Thanks ;)

I personally do not like drip acclimating as temperature drops very quickly and I find that abrupt temperature changes as a result of drip acclimating are often worse than even dumping fish straight in (although that can lead to the same problem).

I simply get a bucket, add 3 cups of water 3 times in 10 minute intervals and then gently grab and release them in their new home.

 

[MJC]

I personally do not like drip acclimating as temperature drops very quickly and I find that abrupt temperature changes as a result of drip acclimating are often worse than even dumping fish straight in (although that can lead to the same problem).

I simply get a bucket, add 3 cups of water 3 times in 10 minute intervals and then gently grab and release them in their new home.

Not sure if you read the part in my post about me keeping the bag in the sump when dripping to keep the temp up.