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evolved

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In that case, no; I wouldn't attempt it. And, unfortunately, I personally do not feel a 55 is large enough for Anampses.
 

varyhare

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What reef safe wrasse would you suggest as I will only have two fish after removing the China Pearl? I have 4" of sand with plenty of caves and hiding places. I cannot have tangs because of tank size, and there are plenty of non-reef safe fish, so I have been looking at wrasse.

Thanks for your quick responses!
 

evolved

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Thinking about adding my first wrasse . Would one of these b ok ? Tanks a 93 cube with 3 fish currently. 2 percula clowns and a small purple tang . Been set up for over a year .
I didn't see this point addressed for you, but you will also want to ensure the tank is completely covered.

While wrasses may exhibit courtship behavior, they will not successfully reproduce in a display tank.
Right, but they may spawn too. (but that's not to say those eggs will amount to anything - besides fish and coral food)

What reef safe wrasse would you suggest as I will only have two fish after removing the China Pearl? I have 4" of sand with plenty of caves and hiding places. I cannot have tangs because of tank size, and there are plenty of non-reef safe fish, so I have been looking at wrasse.
Paracheilinus would be fine, as would the Halichoeres species which do not exceed 5". Most Cirrhilabrus would be fine too, but avoid the species which grow larger than 5".
 

varyhare

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I was looking as leopard or tamarin wrasse because of my deep sand bed and these species would retreat to burying instead of jumping, right?
 

evolved

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I was looking as leopard or tamarin wrasse because of my deep sand bed and these species would retreat to burying instead of jumping, right?
More prone to dive then jump, yes; but far from guaranteed not to jump. Still needs a covered tank.
IMO, a 55 isn't suitable for any Macropharyngodon species either. :(
 

varyhare

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I guess I'll be content with my Candy basslet and Borbonius Anthia. NO WRASSE FOR ME. Really appreciate the help though. Rather have them survive than perish or cat toy.
 

4FordFamily

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More prone to dive then jump, yes; but far from guaranteed not to jump. Still needs a covered tank.
IMO, a 55 isn't suitable for any Macropharyngodon species either. :(
I disagree, I don't think leopards would have trouble in a 55 at all. I don't see them utilizing their space as much as other wrasse species and many stay pretty small.

My 11 leopard wrasses reside in three 6' tanks, except one is in my 55 gallon qt

The rub is that they're very difficult to keep, require a very mature tank, and DEFINITELY a canopy if not an entire lid (recommended).

I do agree that larger tanks are better but I think that's true in general. I don't know much about anampses wrasse.

I agree that fairy wrasse may be ok if they grow less than 5" at full size.
 

Moonlightreef

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I disagree, I don't think leopards would have trouble in a 55 at all. I don't see them utilizing their space as much as other wrasse species and many stay pretty small.

My 11 leopard wrasses reside in three 6' tanks, except one is in my 55 gallon qt

The rub is that they're very difficult to keep, require a very mature tank, and DEFINITELY a canopy if not an entire lid (recommended).

I do agree that larger tanks are better but I think that's true in general. I don't know much about anampses wrasse.

I agree that fairy wrasse may be ok if they grow less than 5" at full size.

ima back up ur point here , i have blue spot leopard wrasse female, yellow coris wrasse , royal pencil wrasse male , shark fin wrasse male , cleaner wrasse , two anthias and on orange fin tang in my 55g and they all live very happy . ohh almost forgot my dart fish LOL
 

earthbound

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Recent additions a pair of pintails and a black backed tamarin

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CORAL JUNKY

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I didn't see this point addressed for you, but you will also want to ensure the tank is completely covered.


Right, but they may spawn too. (but that's not to say those eggs will amount to anything - besides fish and coral food)


Paracheilinus would be fine, as would the Halichoeres species which do not exceed 5". Most Cirrhilabrus would be fine too, but avoid the species which grow larger than 5".
Oh sorry for leaving that out . I currently have a canopy over the tank but since purchased some of the clear mesh and plan on making a cover before adding any wrasse .
 

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CORAL JUNKY

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So I'm looking around online of a lineatus super male and flame but not having any luck finding aby for sale. U guys know of any safe place that might have these fish ?
 

4FordFamily

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They're tough to find sometimes honestly
 

saltyhog

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Advice requested from our resident wrasse gurus. My Potters wrasse has completed 7 weeks of QT observation and two rounds of Prazipro. She has gone from a skinny pinched belly to fat enough she looks pregnant. Eating LRS and mysis great. She feeds really aggressively but I'm a little concerned about how well she'll compete in the DT with my other aggressive feeders.

Current tank residents....two Halichoeres (chrysus and chrysotaenia) one fairy (C. rubrimarginatus) and two flashers (P. mccoskeri and P. attenuatus). The other aggressive feeder is a pyramid butterfly. Passive feeders are a royal gramma, firefish and Randall's goby. Tank is 72" x 24" x 21".

How much longer should I keep her in QT? I tend to think she will be fine as the passive fish (firefish, gramma) are fat and healthy but I'm not in a hurry if you think I should give her more time in a non competitive situation.
 

eatbreakfast

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Advice requested from our resident wrasse gurus. My Potters wrasse has completed 7 weeks of QT observation and two rounds of Prazipro. She has gone from a skinny pinched belly to fat enough she looks pregnant. Eating LRS and mysis great. She feeds really aggressively but I'm a little concerned about how well she'll compete in the DT with my other aggressive feeders.

Current tank residents....two Halichoeres (chrysus and chrysotaenia) one fairy (C. rubrimarginatus) and two flashers (P. mccoskeri and P. attenuatus). The other aggressive feeder is a pyramid butterfly. Passive feeders are a royal gramma, firefish and Randall's goby. Tank is 72" x 24" x 21".

How much longer should I keep her in QT? I tend to think she will be fine as the passive fish (firefish, gramma) are fat and healthy but I'm not in a hurry if you think I should give her more time in a non competitive situation.
If the potter's wrasse is eating aggessively just go ahead and add it it to the dt. Use a social acclimation box to introduce it so that it doesn't get harassed and intimidated. There is no reason after a day or two in the box it won't continue being an aggressive eater.
 

4FordFamily

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Advice requested from our resident wrasse gurus. My Potters wrasse has completed 7 weeks of QT observation and two rounds of Prazipro. She has gone from a skinny pinched belly to fat enough she looks pregnant. Eating LRS and mysis great. She feeds really aggressively but I'm a little concerned about how well she'll compete in the DT with my other aggressive feeders.

Current tank residents....two Halichoeres (chrysus and chrysotaenia) one fairy (C. rubrimarginatus) and two flashers (P. mccoskeri and P. attenuatus). The other aggressive feeder is a pyramid butterfly. Passive feeders are a royal gramma, firefish and Randall's goby. Tank is 72" x 24" x 21".

How much longer should I keep her in QT? I tend to think she will be fine as the passive fish (firefish, gramma) are fat and healthy but I'm not in a hurry if you think I should give her more time in a non competitive situation.
She'll be fine
 

saltyhog

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If the potter's wrasse is eating aggessively just go ahead and add it it to the dt. Use a social acclimation box to introduce it so that it doesn't get harassed and intimidated. There is no reason after a day or two in the box it won't continue being an aggressive eater.

She'll be fine

Thanks guys!
 

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