Think I'm ready for coral.

[swilson3313]

I use tropic marin pro reef and it says it will maintain 7-8 dkh but it is not.

 

[Tastee]

Can you please let us know what testing kits you are using?

That helps us understand how accurate the numbers you are quoting are. If you are using Hanna Checkers, Red Sea Pro or Salifert kits then they’ll be pretty accurate, but you are using (e.g.) API or Red Sea non-pro kits they won’t be that accurate.

How much water changes will change your Alkalinity depends on what salt you use as different salts mix to different levels. In general they should lower it as most are closer to 8 than 9-10. The rule of thumb appears to be changing by no more than 0.5 dKH/day.

The numbers you are measuring is only a small part of what is going on in your tank. There are many, many things in there that we simply can’t measure. As your tank matures it will become more and more stable and stability is very important for corals. I’ve been in the hobby for 4 years now and are still very much a newbie.

LPS and Softies are certainly easier than stony corals, but some are still much more sensitive than others. My recommendation would be for Mushrooms, Hammers and Bubble corals to start with. Torches can be more finicky. Goniopora are not too bad but are very sensitive to Iodine - important to keep it at recommended levels (0.06 ppm). Blastos and Acans are not too hard. GSP is very hardy and easy but can become a pest so you need to be careful where you place it. Finger Leathers (e.g. Sinularia) are also hardy and reasonably easy but if you have this in your tank you won’t be able to keep Stonies in my experience. I have a 65g with a big Neon Green Sinularia which dominates the tank and is very nice but I simply can’t keep a stony alive in that tank. Other Softies and LPS are in the tank with it but no SPS. I have stonies growing well in my 130g tank without a finger leather however.

The other key parameters are Phosphate and Nitrate. I won’t quote a number as it’s a huge topic and will likely just provoke debate but you need measurable levels of both to successfully keep corals in my experience. In my 130g tank (now 1 year old) my Acan, Blasto and particularly Favia were looking very unhappy and on the way out and only started to improve when we upped feeding quite a bit. The fish and the other LPS were ok but these guys simply didn’t have enough left over nutrients until we stepped feeding up. They are now bouncing back as N and P rise a bit.

 

[DJF]

I use tropic marin pro reef and it says it will maintain 7-8 dkh but it is not.

That’s a pretty strong jump to 9.6, even with an unordinary batch. I too use tropic marin and they seem pretty consistent. Maybe try a new alk kit. i do think you’re ready for coral~ (Testing police standing down)

 

[ArtofReefing]

I don't feel like I need to list my perameters I know they are good due to my obsessive testing. I started with an elegance coral supposedly from Australia. Anyway, it perished. I would love to have a reef tank, but I'm a little hesitant. I love my fish but I need a little more color. What is the best coral to start with.

What are "good" parameters in your opinion ? Having good parameters is relative to each individuals understanding of what they think is good.

 

[swilson3313]

Can you please let us know what testing kits you are using?

That helps us understand how accurate the numbers you are quoting are. If you are using Hanna Checkers, Red Sea Pro or Salifert kits then they’ll be pretty accurate, but you are using (e.g.) API or Red Sea non-pro kits they won’t be that accurate.

How much water changes will change your Alkalinity depends on what salt you use as different salts mix to different levels. In general they should lower it as most are closer to 8 than 9-10. The rule of thumb appears to be changing by no more than 0.5 dKH/day.

The numbers you are measuring is only a small part of what is going on in your tank. There are many, many things in there that we simply can’t measure. As your tank matures it will become more and more stable and stability is very important for corals. I’ve been in the hobby for 4 years now and are still very much a newbie.

LPS and Softies are certainly easier than stony corals, but some are still much more sensitive than others. My recommendation would be for Mushrooms, Hammers and Bubble corals to start with. Torches can be more finicky. Goniopora are not too bad but are very sensitive to Iodine - important to keep it at recommended levels (0.06 ppm). Blastos and Acans are not too hard. GSP is very hardy and easy but can become a pest so you need to be careful where you place it. Finger Leathers (e.g. Sinularia) are also hardy and reasonably easy but if you have this in your tank you won’t be able to keep Stonies in my experience. I have a 65g with a big Neon Green Sinularia which dominates the tank and is very nice but I simply can’t keep a stony alive in that tank. Other Softies and LPS are in the tank with it but no SPS. I have stonies growing well in my 130g tank without a finger leather however.

The other key parameters are Phosphate and Nitrate. I won’t quote a number as it’s a huge topic and will likely just provoke debate but you need measurable levels of both to successfully keep corals in my experience. In my 130g tank (now 1 year old) my Acan, Blasto and particularly Favia were looking very unhappy and on the way out and only started to improve when we upped feeding quite a bit. The fish and the other LPS were ok but these guys simply didn’t have enough left over nutrients until we stepped feeding up. They are now bouncing back as N and P rise a bit.

I use hanna test kits.