This is a tough one, lets figure this out!
- Thread starter SoSublime
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My bad completely forgot to add it.
1.026, checked with a Milwaukee refracto. Calibrated with distilled water, checked with cal fluid. Checked against a tropic marin precision hydrometer (not the needle one, an actual glass drop hydrometer)
So today I am
Temp - 77.6F
Sal- 1.026 SG
Alk- 8.2dKH
Cal - 410ppm
Mag - 1350-1420 ppm
Phos - 0.015ppm (post dosing)
Nitrate - 3ppm (post dosing)
Copper for laughs - 0.06ppm (NSW is 0.04)
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I agree 100%. Im on a mission to get it and stable to atleast 0.03 if not a tad higher since its LPS, and 5-10ppm nitrate just to see if its nutrient, even though the tank has ran just as it has for over a year and a half. Even though the tank is recently (4-5 months) on a new dosing system, which maybe the stability brought better faster growth, and lead to total depletion of available nutrients.
iamacat
Higher than my pH
That’s thorough!
I for sure think nutrients are your bugaboo and fish would be nice to add.
you said you’ve had issues with diseased fish. That got me thinking about bacterial issues in your tank. You mention lots of coralline growth. I’m not one to suggest things, more investigate, but iodine wouldn’t hurt to dose. You should get that ICP test also.
Caseyoidae
Valuable Member
The neo nitro and phos should work well. There are cheaper options as well for long term like sodium triphospate for phos. Ect. I just had to dose phosphate for a few months but found my tank no longer needs it. Similar to your situation in nutrient depletion and some coral stn
I used it for Dinos in another tank (I actually beat ostreopsis) and it worked wonderfully.
Its convenient for dosing, 5ml in 75g = .5ppm for nitro. 5ml in 125g = 0.01ppm for Phos. My tank is just about 75g with sump. So 5ml of nitro is .5, and 2.5ml is about 0.01 for phos. Makes it easy so I don't change to quickly.
All fish have been in QT, not DT. I learned my lesson LONG ago lol. Only way a fish touches display now, is through full medication and QT until they are practically sterile. But I lost a clown and Kole to brook, then next stock was hit with velvet, next was hit with some strange bacterial, then next just arrived dead. All from different suppliers and LFS. My luck is -bad- lol.
Also as I dose ESV, its full balanced trace (or atleast supposed to be). Iodine is one of the traces listed to dose. But I really can't verify any traces until I get ICP results. Who knows, maybe a rogue trace is accumulating and becoming toxic
Figured I would post an update. Coral recession is progressing, even so far as to say accelerating. Raising nitrate by about .25-.4 per day. Nitrate is about 5, Phosphate is about 0.03 now. All other parameters still stable.
I dont know, gonna replace my heaters with some Jagers and inspect all my pumps again under heavy scrutiny. Maybe I missed something.
I dont know, gonna replace my heaters with some Jagers and inspect all my pumps again under heavy scrutiny. Maybe I missed something.
Your icp test will hopefully give you a possible reason. Good luck
I had that issue a few years ago, and it was suggested to check for voltage. So I grabbed my voltmeter and wife. Not expecting much but while I held the probes In position the reading was around 100! I had my wife unplug one item at a time and when she unplugged a Koralia powerhead the reading dropped to 4. So I trashed it and everything went back to normal within a week except the acros that were affected the most took over a month. Can't hurt to try.
That's high, I would immediately find the culprit.
Even stranger, when I touch the rim of the tank, or get near the water, the voltage drops. If I touch the water, voltage drops to 5v. 2 heaters give 18v. Skimmer 1-3v, main pump 1-3v, 1 sump agitation pump nearly 10v, gyres 1v each. But I'm left with a phantom 12v or so
Edit: unplugged battery backup and gyres entirely, lost another 10v.
I could be wrong but none of those items should be bleeding that much electricity.
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