Problems with coral

[creefyken]

I have a innovative marine 20G aquarium started mid February. I used a mix of carib sea and reef saver rock, ocean direct sand, starter bacteria and AF fiji mud. I have put in 3-4 bottles of copepods. I have mostly LPS, and soft corals except for 2 montipora digitatas and a rainbow Stylophora.i have been using reef crystals the whole time no problems. Parameters all good however recently the alk went from 8-10 to 12. The only other big change was i increased my maxspect jump L260 up to 70% and increased the blue and dropped white, red, green to 25% looked great, until all the corals turned brown/maroon and are receeding. Phosphate and Nitrate are undetected. PH 8.3, Calcium 400-440. I have been feeding reef roids, oyster feast, coral inertia NRG 2 times a week and phytoplankton 2x a day. I have added when “needed” tropic marin all for reef and np+. Since the tank is melting down. I reduce the lights to forty percent and went with a even blue red, green, white spectrum.

 

[Saltyreef]

does your tank have an algae issue? Was your tank started from dry rock? What is your magnesium at? What are you using to measure salinity and are you sure your RODI is at 0tds?

 

[kevgib67]

No nitrates and phosphates is not good. I’d rather have to much than to little. You need to get those up.

 

[Saltyreef]

No nitrates and phosphates is not good. I’d rather have to much than to little. You need to get those up.

There looks to be an algae issue and that may be consuming it and showing a false number.

 

[creefyken]

does your tank have an algae issue? Was your tank started from dry rock? What is your magnesium at? What are you using to measure salinity and are you sure your RODI is at 0tds?

Using RODI, haven't tested tds but it's pretty new probably had it 2 months. 4 stage. Started with Dry rock. Don't have mag test. 25 % bi-weekly water change , 50% last week. I have had a lot of algae currently mostly green hair.

 

[creefyken]

There looks to be an algae issue and that may be consuming it and showing a false number.

I can try increasing my NP+. I was afraid I might be over feeding. I would like to have a trace of phosphate and Nitrate but if the algae is consuming it would it still hurt the corals?

 

[Saltyreef]

I can try increasing my NP+. I was afraid I might be over feeding. I would like to have a trace of phosphate and Nitrate but if the algae is consuming it would it still hurt the corals?

I would worry about eradicating the algae before worrying about your nutrient levels. Its likely the dry rock you started the tank with will be leaching them for awhile.

Also check your tds. Its good to have a baseline of your tap too so you know what you are looking at.
Ive burned through 2 stages of DI in 25 gallons not knowing what i was doing or what was happening

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

I don’t think reducing the lights will help it already looks dark in your picture. What kind of light do you have?

 

[creefyken]

I don’t think reducing the lights will help it already looks dark in your picture. What kind of light do you have?

Maxspect jump mj-l260

 

[Teddy99]

I think First prio should not be the algae, but keeping you corals alive. So please do not make changes that influence them negativly just to get the algae out. Your corals need a fighting Chance:

1. Nutrients: Corals need them (algae are much more tolerant against nutrient going zero). I would target PO4 0,05 and NO3 at 5 at least. Get those nutrients up and Monitor closely. I had dry rock (CaribSea) sucking up Phosphates and corals will eventually die with Zero Phosphates. But first retest nutrients ( corals going Brown may Happen with too much nutrients or too much light energy, I guess it was your light change, but better be safe there are no nutrients before adding) @Saltyreef: He already has corals in there. I would suggest keeping nutrients available to give them a Chance against algae and dry rock sucking it up before them. What do you think?
2. Light: Your tank is pretty new and therefore seems to have little stability. Changes in Lightning need to be done gradually. Especially the mix of blue and white. Blue and UV light is really full of energy and you zapped that up a Lot from what I gathered. Corals going brown can happen under too much lighting ( zooxantels growing), but it usually stresses the coral, too. Now you turned down the lights: is it still enough to keep the corals alive and healthy ? Turning it down too much might kill the corals, but keep the algae alive. Does this lamp has something like a Reef Safe Setting for the start of a Tank ?
3. Look into what algae you have and do something against them without messing with light (the only thing I would change in the beginning is light times –> maybe Go down to 9 or 10 hours) and nutrients. Maybe stock up on cleaning crew.
4. If it looks fine again start to gradually change light (e.g. Turn the light on for 15 min more per week or turn up the Blue a Little Bit and wait a week before doing so again) until it looks good to you.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Maxspect jump mj-l260

Thats a good light for that size tank and I would be at about 80%-90%, I run similar lights on similar tanks and it works great for my corals. IMO 40% will punish the corals. IMO leave the red and green at about 15%-20% and whites where ever you like, IMO your tank should have at least one or else a pair of small good quality powerheads like the jebao or hyyger, get some good flow in the tank IMO. Your parameters are fine, just roll through the algae phase if you get one. Keep things stable and stop tinkering. IMO good luck

 

[creefyken]

I think First prio should not be the algae, but keeping you corals alive. So please do not make changes that influence them negativly just to get the algae out. Your corals need a fighting Chance:

1. Nutrients: Corals need them (algae are much more tolerant against nutrient going zero). I would target PO4 0,05 and NO3 at 5 at least. Get those nutrients up and Monitor closely. I had dry rock (CaribSea) sucking up Phosphates and corals will eventually die with Zero Phosphates. But first retest nutrients ( corals going Brown may Happen with too much nutrients or too much light energy, I guess it was your light change, but better be safe there are no nutrients before adding) @Saltyreef: He already has corals in there. I would suggest keeping nutrients available to give them a Chance against algae and dry rock sucking it up before them. What do you think?
2. Light: Your tank is pretty new and therefore seems to have little stability. Changes in Lightning need to be done gradually. Especially the mix of blue and white. Blue and UV light is really full of energy and you zapped that up a Lot from what I gathered. Corals going brown can happen under too much lighting ( zooxantels growing), but it usually stresses the coral, too. Now you turned down the lights: is it still enough to keep the corals alive and healthy ? Turning it down too much might kill the corals, but keep the algae alive. Does this lamp has something like a Reef Safe Setting for the start of a Tank ?
3. Look into what algae you have and do something against them without messing with light (the only thing I would change in the beginning is light times –> maybe Go down to 9 or 10 hours) and nutrients. Maybe stock up on cleaning crew.
4. If it looks fine again start to gradually change light (e.g. Turn the light on for 15 min more per week or turn up the Blue a Little Bit and wait a week before doing so again) until it looks good to you.

Thanks. I had a fairy godmother torch, splatter hammer, favia ot the gods, pink ****** chalice, and a tubbs stellata monti, that I got in April. All have done great. The tubbs stellata grew alot. I also got rasta and utter chaos zoas that had added polyps at the same time. I was just shocked from the sudden decline. I do have a hygger 1600gph Wavemaker too the goni, torch and anemone seemed happy my bta split then they both ran all over the tank until they seemed to be affected similarly. I have them in a quarentine tank trying to get them back healthy. They seem to be improving.

 

[CHSUB]

Close inspection of the picture shows a dirty tank. Forgot about the silliness of nutrients and consistently clean the tank with wc, turkey basting, and detritus removal. Yes you are overfeeding….

 

[ScottJ]

You said you do water changes bi-weekly. Do you mean every other week, or twice a week?

Assuming every other week, I would do every week, vac the sand and blow off the rocks. The tank is just over 6 months and you have quite a bit of stuff in there. A dry rock start can take a long time to stabilize, like a year sometimes in my experience. Go slow, clean the tank, water changes will take care of alk, cal, etc. Avoid adding bottled fixes and big changes, and patience is key.

 

[creefyken]

You said you do water changes bi-weekly. Do you mean every other week, or twice a week?

Assuming every other week, I would do every week, vac the sand and blow off the rocks. The tank is just over 6 months and you have quite a bit of stuff in there. A dry rock start can take a long time to stabilize, like a year sometimes in my experience. Go slow, clean the tank, water changes will take care of alk, cal, etc. Avoid adding bottled fixes and big changes, and patience

 

[creefyken]

I had been out of the hobby for about 15 years. My son got a tank and so I decided I wanted another one. We used to use live rock real stuff from the ocean back in the old days. I watched a lot of videos as a lot of technology had changed since then, but I never heard much about dry rocks. Leaching and absorbing stuff? So I guess i'm learning that.