I am planning to go from my 75g to a 120 Or a 150g upgrade tank
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Looking great so far! Did you build that stand, or just mod it? I'm also interested in your sump setup if you wouldn't mind sharing more picture. I'll wait for your build thread though if I have to!It's a slow work in progress but it's coming , I'll be starting a build thread once I get a few more items for it , let me know what you think?
I think you're going to love the extra space. Honestly, I think I'd rather have a 40 breeder over a 55. Unless yours has nonstandard dimensions!Great work man!
I thinking on doing something like that... ones I will move out of my old place.
I will move my 55g into a 100g + tank.
Dude, you need to get a build thread up stat. You have plenty of material and I honestly think people would enjoy it. I am super jelly of that frag tank setup. What controller are you planning on using? That third cabinet door is a sweet little touch. Do you think it decreased any structural integrity?Also added a picture of my own build by me frag system / quarantine system that I built in my garage it's a 10g tank with about a 10g sump I may up grade the sump to a larger sump in the long haul . The tank is currently water testing for temperature fluctuations in the El Paso Heat , I just need to get a light above my frag tank lol thinking LED to save on added heat
You have an insane amount of patience, my friend. That is a lot of work to put into a tank before it's even wet. I'm honestly excited to see what it looks like once you get started on the tank itself. Do you have any worries on having you quarantine and frag tanks plumber together? Or will they both be QT, with one for fish and one for frags?I still need to re paint the stand as well I think I'll be painting it with a Epoxy paint to make a little more durable to water and humidity. I am thinking I may open the back panel of my stand to gain easier access to my plumbing from my Ghost Overflow .. to the Sump . So all ideas still running through my head
You are well on your way to having an awesome first tank! I'm currently moving towards an SPS dominant tank and it is just awesome. Have you thought about which lights to get?This tank will start out as a mixed reef for sure at first then may convert into a SPS reef dominate tank, like I said this is my first reef tank build ever. So I am hoping it's going to be a good first build
You sure can! You do need a controller and the kit with the dimmable ballast though. I'll say this, if you're adding this to existing LEDs and trying to stay on a budget, I'd skip the dimmable option. It is nice to be able to ramp my T5s up and down along with my LEDs, but one problem with that is the bulbs need to "burn in" for 50 hours prior to dimming them (I believe to avoid decreasing their lifespan). This mean I'll either need to spend another 30 or so dollars on a cheap t5 fixture (on top of the 30 extra it was to go dimmable in the first place) or just not use the dimming for a couple weeks. The 60 extra bucks isn't huge, and the two weeks or so of only running them at peak hours isn't a huge problem. That's just two things you wouldn't need to worry about with a simple on/off ballast. If I did it over again I'd stick with my LEDs for ramping and use the T5s for supplementing during the peak hours.Can you control the ramp up/down on the diy T5 retro kit?
Makes sense what you said thank you... I do have current USA plus pro which does ramp up and down but I won't be able to program them to do moon cycles or anything. I was thinking using the current USA and max out the blues and reds and use the t5 as primary light 6-7 hours with the current USA. Then maybe up the whites on the current USA little by little.You sure can! You do need a controller and the kit with the dimmable ballast though. I'll say this, if you're adding this to existing LEDs and trying to stay on a budget, I'd skip the dimmable option. It is nice to be able to ramp my T5s up and down along with my LEDs, but one problem with that is the bulbs need to "burn in" for 50 hours prior to dimming them (I believe to avoid decreasing their lifespan). This mean I'll either need to spend another 30 or so dollars on a cheap t5 fixture (on top of the 30 extra it was to go dimmable in the first place) or just not use the dimming for a couple weeks. The 60 extra bucks isn't huge, and the two weeks or so of only running them at peak hours isn't a huge problem. That's just two things you wouldn't need to worry about with a simple on/off ballast. If I did it over again I'd stick with my LEDs for ramping and use the T5s for supplementing during the peak hours.
Makes sense what you said thank you... I do have current USA plus pro which does ramp up and down but I won't be able to program them to do moon cycles or anything. I was thinking using the current USA and max out the blues and reds and use the t5 as primary light 6-7 hours with the current USA. Then maybe up the whites on the current USA little by little.
The Plus Pro is better suited on a planted freshwater tank. Is that why you're looking into the t5s?Makes sense what you said thank you... I do have current USA plus pro which does ramp up and down but I won't be able to program them to do moon cycles or anything. I was thinking using the current USA and max out the blues and reds and use the t5 as primary light 6-7 hours with the current USA. Then maybe up the whites on the current USA little by little.
Yes you would have three cords. I wouldn't have the slightest idea how, but I imagine there would be a fairly simple way to connect them all. At that price point though you may want to start looking at a fixture!So if I do 6 bulb t5 retro kit, I am going to have 3 separate power cords?