Tin Leaching from Common Plastic Tubing and a Very Inert Tubing that I Found

Crustaceon

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FWIW my system is plumbed with pvc tubing and I’ve ran braided hose from home depot for reactors and such for years, all while keeping acros and never having any issue whatsoever. Maybe doing water changes every so often is reducing the tin level in the tank. Or maybe that level of tin really isn’t having an impact at all.
 

MnFish1

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FWIW my system is plumbed with pvc tubing and I’ve ran braided hose from home depot for reactors and such for years, all while keeping acros and never having any issue whatsoever. Maybe doing water changes every so often is reducing the tin level in the tank. Or maybe that level of tin really isn’t having an impact at all.
Yes - this was my question as well. The issue I have seen is so many people have 'unexpected' high tin levels - with no problem in their tank - I am surprised that tubing/PVC (given how they are almost universally used) - would cause problems - except in specific conditions. (i.e. perhaps tin is more toxic at certain pH, etc - or the form of the tin (organic vs inorganic - which cant be differentiated by ICP)
 
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Dr. Jim

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Again, the purpose of this thread was to simply report my findings from performing "ICP soak tests" on common plastic tubes from Lowes/H.D. and to suggest an inert tubing (TYGON 2475), not to claim or debate whether or not tin causes problems. Everyone can reach their own opinion on that however they wish. But for anybody that is having "tin problems" (i.e. elevated tin and corals dying) and wants to get the tin level down to zero (for whatever reason) then they may find it helpful to know what I have found regarding these commonly used plastic tubes. If the tin level is elevated and you are having coral problems and it is known that you are using plastic tubing that is leaching tin, then wouldn't it make sense to want to get rid of that tubing? There is no denying the values I found. If someone doesn't believe them, he/she can run the soak tests themselves. If someone chooses not to believe it or has elevated tin with no coral problems and/or doesn't care, then just ignore this thread.....but perhaps keep it in mind in case you ever do run into a "tin problem". :)
 

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Again, the purpose of this thread was to simply report my findings from performing "ICP soak tests" on common plastic tubes from Lowes/H.D. and to suggest an inert tubing (TYGON 2475), not to claim or debate whether or not tin causes problems. Everyone can reach their own opinion on that however they wish. But for anybody that is having "tin problems" (i.e. elevated tin and corals dying) and wants to get the tin level down to zero (for whatever reason) then they may find it helpful to know what I have found regarding these commonly used plastic tubes. If the tin level is elevated and you are having coral problems and it is known that you are using plastic tubing that is leaching tin, then wouldn't it make sense to want to get rid of that tubing? There is no denying the values I found. If someone doesn't believe them, he/she can run the soak tests themselves. If someone chooses not to believe it or has elevated tin with no coral problems and/or doesn't care, then just ignore this thread.....but perhaps keep it in mind in case you ever do run into a "tin problem". :)
I appreciate this post but you left out some possibilities, like what if I’m a contrarian for kicks and only want to sound smart by finding holes in your procedure? Have you run a test for that yet?
 
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FWIW my system is plumbed with pvc tubing and I’ve ran braided hose from home depot for reactors and such for years, all while keeping acros and never having any issue whatsoever. Maybe doing water changes every so often is reducing the tin level in the tank. Or maybe that level of tin really isn’t having an impact at all.
I, too, have been using plastic tubing and PVC pipes from Lowes/H.D./Ace for many years (50+) and have kept SPS successfully in many tanks. I never had tin on ICP tests from any of those tanks and never had reason to test tubing prior to my recent problem. I wonder if any of these are possibilities:
1) Perhaps there has been a recent change in the chemical formulation of plastic tubing
2) Perhaps I am seeing problems because of the small size of my tank (34 gal). This is the smallest tank I ever had in recent years. Other systems were all 120 - 500 gal (except for my first 30 gal tank in the mid 60's....but no corals back then!)

Trying to figure out why some reefers would not have tin leaching from the "same" tubing and pipes that I am using is not my goal or obligation to explain. All I know is that what I have been stating is real for me: I have dying corals. I have tin. I have plastic tubing leaching high levels of tin. I found a tubing (TYGON 2475) that does not leach tin. It makes sense to change my tubing to this TYGON 2475. Anyone in the same boat as me can follow along if they want!
 
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I appreciate this post but you left out some possibilities, like what if I’m a contrarian for kicks and only want to sound smart by finding holes in your procedure? Have you run a test for that yet?
Ha ha! No, I haven't figured out a test for that yet. But there always has to be "that" crowd. :D
 
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Is tin used in the manufacture of PVC?
Yes. And all of my "soak tests" on PVC (3-4 tests) revealed undesirable levels (at least for a 34 gal tank) of tin leaching but not nearly as much as the plastic tubing. (There was even a little tin leaching from 2 protein skimmers and a kalk stirrer that I tested, along the same order as the PVC pipes although perhaps negligible for a large aquarium).
 

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I appreciate this post but you left out some possibilities, like what if I’m a contrarian for kicks and only want to sound smart by finding holes in your procedure? Have you run a test for that yet?
Or what if I'm a reefer - that appreciates the work - but doesnt completely agree with the conclusions because of the way the tests were done? Its a discussion board. Thats not 'contrarian' - thats the purpose of the forum.

If the point of the OP is to say that in my hundred gallon tank - that has 3 feet of tubing - may have an elevated tin level because of the tubing (as compared to 1000 other things) - I'm not sure I buy it.

Especially - when the tests from the OP were not done in the type of water we use in tanks (instead - RODI water - which per the OP - was designed because "RO/DI is very "reactive water" meaning that it draws compounds (fumes, smoke, metals, etc) more readily than water with TDS's (for lack of a better description) :)" - and because he wanted to avoid tin in the salt (but it seems it would be simple to measure the salt in the ASW before and after soaking) So - I dont think pointing these things out - to the 'average person' is 'off base' - several people have already come forward 'worried' about their tanks.

Its common knowledge (I thought) that most plastics contain various levels of tin. Whats next - testing Brute trash cans? On the other hand - if you're one of the people that doesn't do water changes - it might be more of a concern. But - in the end to me - it comes down to - ok I have a high tin level - im using tubing. Is my 1. Looking for other sources, 2. Changing water several times (as recommended in several articles) - and rechecking, 3. replacing all plastic in the tank?

My pick would be #3 only if there were more data. But again - as I said 3 times - the work is appreciated - and its something to think about.
 

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Yes. And all of my "soak tests" on PVC (3-4 tests) revealed undesirable levels (at least for a 34 gal tank) of tin leaching but not nearly as much as the plastic tubing. (There was even a little tin leaching from 2 protein skimmers and a kalk stirrer that I tested, along the same order as the PVC pipes although perhaps negligible for a large aquarium).

Why not avoid PVC altogether then?
 
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Why not avoid PVC altogether then?
Of course not everybody is having a problem with PVC. Good idea, but what would you suggest to replace it that is safe and doesn't leach tin?

I'm all set with my present tank and my new tank coming in a month. But for my next build in about a year (after I move) which will be a huge system, I will need to come up with something other than TYGON because of the cost-factor.
I need look into flex tubing/flex pipe and consider a "soak test" on that.
Thanks!
 
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What if pvc or vinyl tubing left sitting in the sun at the warehouse heats it up and softens it enough to release lots more tin than pvc or vinly tubing that hasnt seen the heat but normal temps, or shaded indoors. Its a well known fact that melting or heating plastic releases lots of nasties. Just a thought. A palce where I live stores their pvc outside.

What im saying: pvc in hot weather = tin
Pvc not exposed to hot = no tin
 

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Anyone know of product to remove tin? Have read cuprisorb may work but no definitive proof.
 
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Anyone know of product to remove tin? Have read cuprisorb may work but no definitive proof.
From my attempts to remove tin, my anecdotal conclusions are that none of the following products were effective for removing it: Power Cleanse, Cuprisorb (likely the same product as Power Cleanse but the recommended dosage is much less for Cuprisorb), Metasorb, Polyfilter, and carbon.

The only product where I used somewhat of a controlled experiment was with POWER CLEANSE (which I posted in another thread):
  • Since Jack Kent (CEO of Continuum) sent me a free bottle of POWER CLEANSE, I decided to perform a “crude” experiment to see if this product can remove tin, (for his information and for mine.) I placed 4 ml of Power Cleanse in 946 ml of the water suspected to contain tin. This would extrapolate to twice the recommended dosage. I simply shook the bottle several times a day for 2 days, then took a sample. Although running water through a media bag would have been a better option, I would have expected some decrease in the tin from what I did. But unfortunately, the tin came back at 107.6; the original sample before adding the Power Cleanse was 111.6 so the decrease was probably not statistically significant. (Jack told me that if a product was to be successful removing tin, it should be apparent after just 24 hrs; I allowed 48 hours).
 

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From my attempts to remove tin, my anecdotal conclusions are that none of the following products were effective for removing it: Power Cleanse, Cuprisorb (likely the same product as Power Cleanse but the recommended dosage is much less for Cuprisorb), Metasorb, Polyfilter, and carbon.

The only product where I used somewhat of a controlled experiment was with POWER CLEANSE (which I posted in another thread):
  • Since Jack Kent (CEO of Continuum) sent me a free bottle of POWER CLEANSE, I decided to perform a “crude” experiment to see if this product can remove tin, (for his information and for mine.) I placed 4 ml of Power Cleanse in 946 ml of the water suspected to contain tin. This would extrapolate to twice the recommended dosage. I simply shook the bottle several times a day for 2 days, then took a sample. Although running water through a media bag would have been a better option, I would have expected some decrease in the tin from what I did. But unfortunately, the tin came back at 107.6; the original sample before adding the Power Cleanse was 111.6 so the decrease was probably not statistically significant. (Jack told me that if a product was to be successful removing tin, it should be apparent after just 24 hrs; I allowed 48 hours).
So good ole dilution is the solution to pollution. Was afraid of that lol.
 

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Hello,

I also was have problem with Tin in my reef tank. Tin was about 70ugl, (I was have only high Tin without other heavy metals) all hard corals died. Even when I did 100% water change, all those corals that were still alive at that time died in the next weeks or months, as I suspect the poisoning was strong enough and the corals were already doomed.

I still don't know where the tin came from.
I did test for my tap water and RO/DI and there was not tin.
But I used plastic tubes for my dosing pump.
 
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Hello,

I also was have problem with Tin in my reef tank. Tin was about 70ugl, (I was have only high Tin without other heavy metals) all hard corals died. Even when I did 100% water change, all those corals that were still alive at that time died in the next weeks or months, as I suspect the poisoning was strong enough and the corals were already doomed.

I still don't know where the tin came from.
I did test for my tap water and RO/DI and there was not tin.
But I used plastic tubes for my dosing pump.

That may well be the cause, or it was something else. Proving cause and effect is difficult in such a situation. :)
 
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Dr. Jim

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Hello,

I also was have problem with Tin in my reef tank. Tin was about 70ugl, (I was have only high Tin without other heavy metals) all hard corals died. Even when I did 100% water change, all those corals that were still alive at that time died in the next weeks or months, as I suspect the poisoning was strong enough and the corals were already doomed.

I still don't know where the tin came from.
I did test for my tap water and RO/DI and there was not tin.
But I used plastic tubes for my dosing pump.
The plastic tubing I discussed and tested was 3/4" and 1" pvc tubing that came with my tank and that which I purchased at Lowes/H.D. I never tested tubing from dosing pumps. I have a lot of that type of tubing, mostly silicone, but doubt that that relatively small amount of contact would be a problem. If I hadn't found such high levels of tin from the larger tubing, perhaps I would have tested the dosing tubing. If you don't use the "larger" tubing, I would consider pvc pipe or other plastics as the next most likely source(s) (and/or, even the glass).
 
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