Tips for installing bulkheads in brute trash cans

Bthomas

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Like the title says, im looking for tips on how to install bulkheads on brute trash cans. I just installed one and its leaking. Wanted to see if theres anything i could be doing wrong/anything I could do to get it to stop leaking.
 

Mal11224

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Did you use a hole cutter bit? Also, how did you install the bulkhead. A picture might help.
 
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I also tried it with the washer both on the inside and outside
119204dbb5c250cdeaeccb1b49c199d8.jpg
 

Mal11224

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Well, here are pics of mine. I have two cans set up for fresh and salt mix. Depends on where it is leaking. Did you use plumbers tape? Is it tight enough? Washers on both sides? Hope this helps.

IMG_0268.JPG
IMG_0267.JPG
 

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Sometimes bulkheads that are made for flat surfaces, like glass, acrylic, crack when you tighten them. It's hard to see the crack as it only opens when tightened on the curved surface. If not cracked you could try doubling the gasket on the inside. That's where you want the seal. Best to use Uniseals on curved surfaces.
The nut side with the threads should be on the outside of the container.
 
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Bthomas

Bthomas

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Sometimes bulkheads that are made for flat surfaces, like glass, acrylic, crack when you tighten them. It's hard to see the crack as it only opens when tightened on the curved surface. If not cracked you could try doubling the gasket on the inside. That's where you want the seal. Best to use Uniseals on curved surfaces.
The nut side with the threads should be on the outside of the container.
U think i should flip the bulkhead to have the nut side outside? I've only ever seen them installed this way
 

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It doesn't really matter as long as the gasket sits directly under the flange. Getting a bulkhead intended for a flat surface to seal on a curved one can be tricky. I usually install them through the flat bottom of a brute can. If you can wait for it to cure, some silicone sealant will likely do the trick.
 
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Bthomas

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It doesn't really matter as long as the gasket sits directly under the flange. Getting a bulkhead intended for a flat surface to seal on a curved one can be tricky. I usually install them through the flat bottom of a brute can. If you can wait for it to cure, some silicone sealant will likely do the trick.
With silicone do i just apply that to the outside around the edges of the bulkhead?
Also how tight should i be making it? Should i keep cranking on it with a wrench until it won't turn any more or should hand tight be enough
 

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With silicone do i just apply that to the outside around the edges of the bulkhead?
Also how tight should i be making it? Should i keep cranking on it with a wrench until it won't turn any more or should hand tight be enough

No wrench - That will crack it for sure. Those nuts are designed to seal with hand tightness only. You could try a little silicone lubricant on the washer but be very careful not to over-tighten if you try this. Make sure you know where it is leaking from. Either the rubber gasket (flange) or through the opening as this will make a big difference how to fix it.
 

andrewkw

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Uniseal is the way to go if you can find one sized to the hole saw you used. It’s what they are designed for rather than a flat surface like a bulkhead. Check out BRS- that’s where I got mine.

Uniseals are much better for this type of application, a bulkhead can work as shown above, but uniseals are easier.
 
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Bthomas

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No wrench - That will crack it for sure. Those nuts are designed to seal with hand tightness only. You could try a little silicone lubricant on the washer but be very careful not to over-tighten if you try this. Make sure you know where it is leaking from. Either the rubber gasket (flange) or through the opening as this will make a big difference how to fix it.
It's just dripping from the bottom of the bulkhead. How can i tell if its flange issue or gasket issue
 

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I would just use a uniseal but for the hole I drilled it would need a 1.5 inch pipe and my pump takes a 3/4 inch
So your plan was to use a 1.5" bulkhead then reducer?

You can modify the plan to 1.5" uniseal, an inch or 2 of 1.5" pvc then reducer then 3/4".
 

andrewkw

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So why not replace with 3/4" uniseal? when I say 3/4" i mean designed for 3/4" pvc I don't know the actual sizes off hand but they make them for pretty much all standard pvc sizes.
 

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