To QT and go fallow or when / not?

[pmanz]

I'm getting back into the hobby after a long sabbatical and had every intention of quarantining every single thing that went into the tank. I even bought a small QT setup.

Then my son wanted his own nano reef, so I let him use that. I even "got lucky" with a few fish additions.

Until I didn’t...

Last weekend, I noticed my newest addition, a Copperband Butterfly, looked like it had ich and red splotches under the skin. I ran out and bought him into a 10-gallon QT tank with copper, and I have Nitrofuracin Green on order. Then today, a Tomini Tang seems to have come down with ich and splotchy skin too, and went into the QT tank. Upon very, very close examination, the Purple Tang appears to have ich as well, but he's a bit of a bully and will beat up on the first two, so, for now, he's still in the display tank. None of these guys have been cooperative for pictures, but ID'ing the specific diseases is not the issue at the moment.

Everyone else seems fine for now, but I’ve come to the conclusion that I need to move all the fish into a medicated QT tank and let the display tank with coral go fallow for 76 days. The problem is, “76 days” puts me in the middle of vacation or if I cut corners, right before I leave. I’ve learned my lesson about cutting corners and don’t want to reintroduce everyone just before vacation either; that’s asking for trouble.

So here's my question: Is there any way to "manage" the ich until mid-August? I’ll be away for a week in late July and won’t be able to do anything with the tank during that time. I’m nervous about asking my wife to manage two tanks instead of one highly automated reef.

Also, based on the stocking list below, do you think I could get away with using a 55-gallon tank for QT (which is currently on sale at PetSmart), assuming it has plenty of PVC pipes for hiding spots?

A few system details:

• 180 gallon Display (6' x 2' x 2') / 225 gallon system volume
• Reefmat Roller, Protein skimmer, UV
• Stocked with:
  • Purple Tang (3-4")
  • Desjardini Sailfin Tang (3-4")
  • White Tail Tang (5-6")
  • Tomini Tang (2-3")
  • 2 Percula Clowns
  • Blue Midas Blenny
  • Canary Blenny
  • Pseudochromis
  • Melanurus wrasse
  • Clown goby
  • Copperband Butterfly
  • Diamond Blenny
  • 3x Green Chromis
  • 3x Ignatus Anthias

Thanks in advance for any counsel anyone can provide!

Best,
Paul

 

[mmorrison55]

Do you have Corals and inverts?

If none, you could do hyposalinity instead of qt and fallow. Hypo is generally 6 weeks once you get down to 1.009 SG

 

[vetteguy53081]

I'm getting back into the hobby after a long sabbatical and had every intention of quarantining every single thing that went into the tank. I even bought a small QT setup.

Then my son wanted his own nano reef, so I let him use that. I even "got lucky" with a few fish additions.

Until I didn’t...

Last weekend, I noticed my newest addition, a Copperband Butterfly, looked like it had ich and red splotches under the skin. I ran out and bought him into a 10-gallon QT tank with copper, and I have Nitrofuracin Green on order. Then today, a Tomini Tang seems to have come down with ich and splotchy skin too, and went into the QT tank. Upon very, very close examination, the Purple Tang appears to have ich as well, but he's a bit of a bully and will beat up on the first two, so, for now, he's still in the display tank. None of these guys have been cooperative for pictures, but ID'ing the specific diseases is not the issue at the moment.

Everyone else seems fine for now, but I’ve come to the conclusion that I need to move all the fish into a medicated QT tank and let the display tank with coral go fallow for 76 days. The problem is, “76 days” puts me in the middle of vacation or if I cut corners, right before I leave. I’ve learned my lesson about cutting corners and don’t want to reintroduce everyone just before vacation either; that’s asking for trouble.

So here's my question: Is there any way to "manage" the ich until mid-August? I’ll be away for a week in late July and won’t be able to do anything with the tank during that time. I’m nervous about asking my wife to manage two tanks instead of one highly automated reef.

Also, based on the stocking list below, do you think I could get away with using a 55-gallon tank for QT (which is currently on sale at PetSmart), assuming it has plenty of PVC pipes for hiding spots?

A few system details:

• 180 gallon Display (6' x 2' x 2') / 225 gallon system volume
• Reefmat Roller, Protein skimmer, UV
• Stocked with:
  • Purple Tang (3-4")
  • Desjardini Sailfin Tang (3-4")
  • White Tail Tang (5-6")
  • Tomini Tang (2-3")
  • 2 Percula Clowns
  • Blue Midas Blenny
  • Canary Blenny
  • Pseudochromis
  • Melanurus wrasse
  • Clown goby
  • Copperband Butterfly
  • Diamond Blenny
  • 3x Green Chromis
  • 3x Ignatus Anthias

Thanks in advance for any counsel anyone can provide!

Best,
Paul

Do not use nitro but rather safe chelated form - coppersafe at 2.15 -2.25ppm. Ich management is often a short cut and allows at times for disease to take hold of the fishing leading to loss. There is no real reef safe treatment making copper most effective. While there is Hyposalinity, (1.009) it is Not for all fish and can be stressful to some. 55g is going to be tight and while 75 is similar dimensions, it offers additional water volume.

 

[pmanz]

Do you have Corals and inverts?

If none, you could do hyposalinity instead of qt and fallow. Hypo is generally 6 weeks once you get down to 1.009 SG

Yes, mostly SPS, but frags are still tiny, and I built the rockwork so I could remove it in several large sections in an emergency. So, getting the rockwork out, catching, and then moving everyone is still an option. And, probably still will be in 3-4 months.

 

[rcpiv93]

Plenty of people manage ich with success. I recommend a large uv sterilizer (40w or more). Keep the water quality good, feed well, and you may be able to pull it off.

 

[pmanz]

Do not use nitro but rather safe chelated form - coppersafe at 2.15 -2.25ppm. Ich management is often a short cut and allows at times for disease to take hold of the fishing leading to loss. There is no real reef safe treatment making copper most effective. While there is Hyposalinity, (1.009) it is Not for all fish and can be stressful to some. 55g is going to be tight and while 75 is similar dimensions, it offers additional water volume.

Been looking at Facebook marketplace for cheap tanks and have seen a few 75s. Am I asking for trouble from a disease standpoint by buying used?

Wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy a new cheap one or if I can make do with a used one.

 

[MnFish1]

I'm getting back into the hobby after a long sabbatical and had every intention of quarantining every single thing that went into the tank. I even bought a small QT setup.

Then my son wanted his own nano reef, so I let him use that. I even "got lucky" with a few fish additions.

Until I didn’t...

Last weekend, I noticed my newest addition, a Copperband Butterfly, looked like it had ich and red splotches under the skin. I ran out and bought him into a 10-gallon QT tank with copper, and I have Nitrofuracin Green on order. Then today, a Tomini Tang seems to have come down with ich and splotchy skin too, and went into the QT tank. Upon very, very close examination, the Purple Tang appears to have ich as well, but he's a bit of a bully and will beat up on the first two, so, for now, he's still in the display tank. None of these guys have been cooperative for pictures, but ID'ing the specific diseases is not the issue at the moment.

Everyone else seems fine for now, but I’ve come to the conclusion that I need to move all the fish into a medicated QT tank and let the display tank with coral go fallow for 76 days. The problem is, “76 days” puts me in the middle of vacation or if I cut corners, right before I leave. I’ve learned my lesson about cutting corners and don’t want to reintroduce everyone just before vacation either; that’s asking for trouble.

So here's my question: Is there any way to "manage" the ich until mid-August? I’ll be away for a week in late July and won’t be able to do anything with the tank during that time. I’m nervous about asking my wife to manage two tanks instead of one highly automated reef.

Also, based on the stocking list below, do you think I could get away with using a 55-gallon tank for QT (which is currently on sale at PetSmart), assuming it has plenty of PVC pipes for hiding spots?

A few system details:

• 180 gallon Display (6' x 2' x 2') / 225 gallon system volume
• Reefmat Roller, Protein skimmer, UV
• Stocked with:
  • Purple Tang (3-4")
  • Desjardini Sailfin Tang (3-4")
  • White Tail Tang (5-6")
  • Tomini Tang (2-3")
  • 2 Percula Clowns
  • Blue Midas Blenny
  • Canary Blenny
  • Pseudochromis
  • Melanurus wrasse
  • Clown goby
  • Copperband Butterfly
  • Diamond Blenny
  • 3x Green Chromis
  • 3x Ignatus Anthias

Thanks in advance for any counsel anyone can provide!

Best,
Paul

No - since you're going to be gone there is no good way to do that - however - you can also limit the time the Display is in fallow mode - if you can raise your temp a little to 81 or so - you may be able to get away with less time. This will not work with inverts.

 

[MnFish1]

Been looking at Facebook marketplace for cheap tanks and have seen a few 75s. Am I asking for trouble from a disease standpoint by buying used?

Wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy a new cheap one or if I can make do with a used one.

You only will run into trouble if the used tank leaks. disease should not be an issue

 

[vetteguy53081]

Been looking at Facebook marketplace for cheap tanks and have seen a few 75s. Am I asking for trouble from a disease standpoint by buying used?

Wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy a new cheap one or if I can make do with a used one.

Craigslist, goodwill and some LFS have used tanks. I have no issues with used tanks. Ask owner in advance to fill it to confirm no leaks

 

[pmanz]

Plenty of people manage ich with success. I recommend a large uv sterilizer (40w or more). Keep the water quality good, feed well, and you may be able to pull it off.

I feel like I feed the heck out of them. Every hour, on the hour, from an Avast autofeeder for 90 seconds from 9 am to 9 pm, and generally 2-3 sheets of Nori a day. Nitrates right around 10, Phosphates right around .1.

It sounds like net/net, I need to move everyone into a QT hotel and leave the DT fallow until after I return from my trip in August. Any tips for keeping the algae at bay in the DT while the Tang Gang is away? I'm thinking I'll need to lower my nitrates/phosphates so there's less food for the algae?

 

[bluemon]

I feel like I feed the heck out of them. Every hour, on the hour, from an Avast autofeeder for 90 seconds from 9 am to 9 pm, and generally 2-3 sheets of Nori a day. Nitrates right around 10, Phosphates right around .1.

It sounds like net/net, I need to move everyone into a QT hotel and leave the DT fallow until after I return from my trip in August. Any tips for keeping the algae at bay in the DT while the Tang Gang is away? I'm thinking I'll need to lower my nitrates/phosphates so there's less food for the algae?

Well if your tank is fallow, you won’t be feeding fish and so your nutrients will naturally bottom out unless you are dosing things like coral food.

I wouldn’t think you would have algae issues unless you are combatting high nutrients already

 

[pmanz]

Well if your tank is fallow, you won’t be feeding fish and so your nutrients will naturally bottom out unless you are dosing things like coral food.

I wouldn’t think you would have algae issues unless you are combatting high nutrients already

With the coral, I'll need to keep it lit, and was thinking that'd contribute to algae issues. But I suppose you're right in that I'll need to dose a bit of coral food to keep nutrients up and things in balance.

 

[vetteguy53081]

With the coral, I'll need to keep it lit, and was thinking that'd contribute to algae issues. But I suppose you're right in that I'll need to dose a bit of coral food to keep nutrients up and things in balance.

Food helps with immune system but is not a cure and UV unit is not an eraser and will not remove pre-existing ich and only what passes through the unit.

 

[Catawba_Valley_Reef]

Been looking at Facebook marketplace for cheap tanks and have seen a few 75s. Am I asking for trouble from a disease standpoint by buying used?

Wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy a new cheap one or if I can make do with a used one.

A used one is fine. Run bleach through it and rinse real well…then let it dry completely.

 

[pmanz]

Have a lead on an old Oceanic 77-gallon freshwater tank about a mile away available today. I plan on picking up a Seachem Tidal HOB filter and setting it up as a hospital tank, treating with copper & metroplex, and holding them in there for the next 80-90 days before reintroducing them to DT.

(Might also be a perfect opportunity to start a planted freshwater discus / aquascaped tank once this is all over, without wife realizing until it's too late... ;) :face-with-tears-of-joy: )

 

[Catawba_Valley_Reef]

If you want to wait until August to start qt’ing the fish it is doable in my opinion.

A) Your fish must be healthy, well fed, etc
B) You need to install a large UV sterilizer at the proper flow rate. Ideally the water passes from your return pump, through the sterilizer and into the display.
C) Adding a diatom filter in the display can potentially help trap the free swimming stage of ich

How do I know? Because I’m currently battling this myself for the first time in 20 years in the hobby. I got ich in my tank from new corals about a month ago. Haven’t lost any fish yet and the spots are minimal…because of the management piece.

Once you do qt, keeping ammonia levels down in the 75g is going to be key.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Have a lead on an old Oceanic 77-gallon freshwater tank about a mile away available today. I plan on picking up a Seachem Tidal HOB filter and setting it up as a hospital tank, treating with copper & metroplex, and holding them in there for the next 80-90 days before reintroducing them to DT.

(Might also be a perfect opportunity to start a planted freshwater discus / aquascaped tank once this is all over, without wife realizing until it's too late... ;) :face-with-tears-of-joy: )

Sounds like a winner but skip the metro which should be used when absolutely needed and has to be distributed by weight and also makes food taste bitter. Copper will work well

 

[vetteguy53081]

If you want to wait until August to start qt’ing the fish it is doable in my opinion.

A) Your fish must be healthy, well fed, etc
B) You need to install a large UV sterilizer at the proper flow rate. Ideally the water passes from your return pump, through the sterilizer and into the display.
C) Adding a diatom filter in the display can potentially help trap the free swimming stage of ich

How do I know? Because I’m currently battling this myself for the first time in 20 years in the hobby. I got ich in my tank from new corals about a month ago. Haven’t lost any fish yet and the spots are minimal…because of the management piece.

Once you do qt, keeping ammonia levels down in the 75g is going to be key.

Spots should be gone. UV is not an eraser and will not remove /erradicate pre-existing ich but address what goes through the unit itself.
Diatoms units not easy to find and not cheap for the average reefer.

 

[pmanz]

If you want to wait until August to start qt’ing the fish it is doable in my opinion.

A) Your fish must be healthy, well fed, etc
B) You need to install a large UV sterilizer at the proper flow rate. Ideally the water passes from your return pump, through the sterilizer and into the display.
C) Adding a diatom filter in the display can potentially help trap the free swimming stage of ich

How do I know? Because I’m currently battling this myself for the first time in 20 years in the hobby. I got ich in my tank from new corals about a month ago. Haven’t lost any fish yet and the spots are minimal…because of the management piece.

Once you do qt, keeping ammonia levels down in the 75g is going to be key.

I've actually not done a straight saltwater fish tank w/o live rock. On my DT I have automated daily water changes, which I won't be able to do on this.

So, I was figuring on ~10%+ weekly and, once I'm done with the copper treatments, pulling some live rock out of the sump that was probably going to be thrown out anyway, and putting that in there to at least get some sort of bio filter going.

 

[Catawba_Valley_Reef]

Sounds like a winner but skip the metro which should be used when absolutely needed and has to be distributed by weight and also makes food taste bitter. Copper will work well

In the original post, he says the copperband has red splotches under the skin. In my opinion it also has either a bacterial infection or uronema. I think he needs more than copper. Thoughts?