Torch not opening

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mmmmmm773

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So my torch ive had for 3 weeks about. Every day, its like a 40% it opens really big and looks nice. Today it open mostly. Anyone know why? Water parameters are good except i have no nitrates.
 

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Thread says closed, you post open.
Not sure what you are saying your torch is doing.
Zero nitrates and/or phosphate is not good at all, stuff will starve.
Lemme restate, i just reread that.

So my torch i got around 3 weeks ago. It doesnt open very often, most of the time its closed. Its open today though, but im not sure of the reason its open sometimes and closed sometimes. Is this the flow or zero nitrates/phosphates?
 
Not unusual for any coral to stay retracted for days/weeks before getting settled and opening. It takes time for it to adjust its processes after changing environmental conditions such as water chemistry and light.

Certainly opening is a good thing. We would want it to stay open during light hours and contract when dark, daily, every day.

You must maintain trace nitrate and phosphate in your water chemistry to feed not only corals, but everybody else living in your system.

Zero nutrients will in time, lead to dead corals and pest type algaes and bacteria.
 
Not unusual for any coral to stay retracted for days/weeks before getting settled and opening. It takes time for it to adjust its processes after changing environmental conditions such as water chemistry and light.

Certainly opening is a good thing. We would want it to stay open during light hours and contract when dark, daily, every day.

You must maintain trace nitrate and phosphate in your water chemistry to feed not only corals, but everybody else living in your system.

Zero nutrients will in time, lead to dead corals and pest type algaes and bacteria.
Ive tried feeding more and whatnot and even turning protein skimmer off but nothing increase nitrates atleast. I looked at nitrates doses but they always say should be used by "experienced reefers". So im not trying to mess with anything.
 
It’s hard to hit a true zero in nitrates, possible, but not overly common unless your running a good size fuge, or reefer mat type of exports. These can mop up stuff fast.

Tests can be off. Always get a second opinion if any test feels “off” or is not what is expected.

Dosing can be done safely by any level aquarist provided regular testing with an accurate kit is performed frequently until it stabilizes.

It’s important in the systems initial growth stage that nutrients be available, and maintained at common levels.
 

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