Triton test showing high TIN / Zinc in my new tank >.<

Creggers

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Just got my triton test back and much to my dismay my tank has a high level of Tin and Zinc, and slightly elevated levels of copper and aluminum. I realized that my final stage of my 5 stage RODI system hasn't been changed in a long time (fully depleted based on color) and I'm questioning if the water coming out of it was truly zero. I tested it as zero with 3 testers prior to mixing my initial batch of Saltwater. I changed the final stage in my RODI system just incase.

I'm going to follow the instruction and make a series of water changes (planning on weekly 15%) for about six weeks and than sending off another test. My SPS has been dying / browning / RTN but my LPS is currently looking happy. I'm not going to introduce anything (corals / fish / etc) until I send another water test out and get the all clear.

It's all new equipment - i noticed a stand I had near the tank had a bit of rust forming (no water contact) and I promptly removed it. I do light candles / insense / Vape in the house but the smoke is rather far away and it's never lit without a fan on for circulation. I do have marinepure in my sump but i soaked it for three days before placing it in my system. I pulled out one of my two frag racks just to be sure but it looked ok..

I just ordered some Cupisorb that I'm going to toss in my sump for the duration of my water changes - am I missing anything here or am I taking the correct steps? Anything else I should check?

Thanks R2R!
 

vetteguy53081

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Just got my triton test back and much to my dismay my tank has a high level of Tin and Zinc, and slightly elevated levels of copper and aluminum. I realized that my final stage of my 5 stage RODI system hasn't been changed in a long time (fully depleted based on color) and I'm questioning if the water coming out of it was truly zero. I tested it as zero with 3 testers prior to mixing my initial batch of Saltwater. I changed the final stage in my RODI system just incase.

I'm going to follow the instruction and make a series of water changes (planning on weekly 15%) for about six weeks and than sending off another test. My SPS has been dying / browning / RTN but my LPS is currently looking happy. I'm not going to introduce anything (corals / fish / etc) until I send another water test out and get the all clear.

It's all new equipment - i noticed a stand I had near the tank had a bit of rust forming (no water contact) and I promptly removed it. I do light candles / insense / Vape in the house but the smoke is rather far away and it's never lit without a fan on for circulation. I do have marinepure in my sump but i soaked it for three days before placing it in my system. I pulled out one of my two frag racks just to be sure but it looked ok..

I just ordered some Cupisorb that I'm going to toss in my sump for the duration of my water changes - am I missing anything here or am I taking the correct steps? Anything else I should check?

Thanks R2R!
Not unusual to get readings with metals on ICP tests but often you want to confirm possibilities such as stainless clamps that start to rust, piping in the house where water may have run through, probes or magnets which may be rusting without your knowledge. If you are doing regular water changes and running carbon, you will have reduced risks but your coral are often indicators of toxicity and unwanted metals.
What reading were you getting for tin?
It will show as Sn and often below 150. Often these tests are done with plasma and there has been question as to accuracy
 
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Creggers

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Not unusual to get readings with metals on ICP tests but often you want to confirm possibilities such as stainless clamps that start to rust, piping in the house where water may have run through, probes or magnets which may be rusting without your knowledge. If you are doing regular water changes and running carbon, you will have reduced risks but your coral are often indicators of toxicity and unwanted metals.
What reading were you getting for tin?
It will show as Sn and often below 150. Often these tests are done with plasma and there has been question as to accuracy

Tin was at 78 - Zinc was at 17..
 

vetteguy53081

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Tin was at 78 - Zinc was at 17..
If this was my test, I would not be too concerned. Triton typically makes recommendations with a red print or Hazard sign on the report - Was there any?
 
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If this was my test, I would not be too concerned. Triton typically makes recommendations with a red print or Hazard sign on the report - Was there any?
Yes here's what their recommendation is:

"We detected elements in your water that can be harmful for your tank.
More information about each element is listed below.
To remedy this we recommend carrying out 6 x 15% water changes with Tropic Marin Pro salt or Red Sea Salt (blue bucket), spread over 6 weeks"
 

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Yes here's what their recommendation is:

"We detected elements in your water that can be harmful for your tank.
More information about each element is listed below.
To remedy this we recommend carrying out 6 x 15% water changes with Tropic Marin Pro salt or Red Sea Salt (blue bucket), spread over 6 weeks"
Yep, as mentioned . . water changes and carbon
 
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I’m gonna throw a carbon bag / cupisorb in my sump based on the recommendations I’ve gotten in this thread. Thanks R2R!
 
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any updates
I threw some cupisorb in and I’m gonna throw some carbon in during my next water change. I lost/am loosing some corals but that could be related to them just being new-ish additions.

I’ll report back if / when anything changes or when I retest after 6 weeks of waterchanges
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Tin seems to most often come from plastic parts such as plastic tubing where it is used in the plastic as a stabilizer during manufacturing.

Zinc can come from lots of different metal parts.

A as general rule, folks should not assume that ICP company recommendations of what to do are always useful or necessary. They may be, or not. Just because something is higher or lower than NSW does not mean it must be fixed.

In this case, it is hard to judge because tin can take lots of different chemical forms that will have different toxicity. Tryign to reduce it is a fine plan, but bear in mind that binders may also reduce trace elements that are not actually elevated.
 

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