All I know with it running how it is I’ve not had any algae issues or even film on the glass. Was cleaning glass 2-3 times a week and now I’m really only cleaning coralline from glass every 2-3 weeks. So by that I’d say it’s doing its job.
Yeah, I was just erferring to your comment implying about kjnowing the flow rate. Didnt know if you had a flow meter or something. Guesstimation is fine too!
This has been beaten to death in another thread . It is almost impossible for 100% of the total water to pass through due to dead spots in the Tank. Also the parasites use the sand , and rock to avoid being pushed around as it were . This was backed up by people here that are more knowledgeable than I am . Logically speaking running a UV separate is no different in my mind than using the main return . You actually would have better plumbing options than a single line coming from the tank which is passive pressure considering all the options out there . The pressure is done at the pump right ? , and again goes to the Tank via a single line . Feed lines to the UV could be multiple and placed at different spots in the Tank. You also have choices as to place the pump type of pump ect. The light is mounted external to the system . It can be mounted to be fed by Tank water not just the Sump water. All I am saying is that there are more options available than jut the plumbing configuration of inline
You could always physically measure it for the time to fill a gallon container , and do the mathit’s a rough estimate/calculation off return pump specs.
the calculation of the " Dose " uses both numbers. Its a combination and is a math calculation , the same as knowing the flow rate . It is not guesswork . The calculation is online and here as well. The Wattage number is used to calculate the effective wattage assuming a UV-C bulb is used 40 watts is not necessarily the effective rate not explained properly but look it up and you will see . I am too lazy to do it
Man, I have a lot of trouble following what youre trying to say. The target organism need to have adequate exposure to germicidal UV (UVC) to disrupt their DNA and "kill" them. However thats accomplished, it is effective, as long as they have the adequate exposure. There are definitely charts that show how much exposure is needed to do this (typically in microwatt-seconds per square cm). My point stated is that this isnt only accomplished by dwell time, or wattage. It is a combination of either. A super high wattage UV can be very short and have water flow through it quickly. That is high wattage and short dwell time. Look at the Aqua UV Viper series. Or it can have a relative low wattage and a high dwell time. That is longer traditional UVs, and a relatvely slow flow through them. Those both can accomplish identical UVC exposure and "kill rate".
I looked at the lights mentioned by you you are financially out of my league. I did not even look to see if they are meant for Aquariums for us.
My only point in mentioning them was to show that a arguably small, high wattage unit can be used as effectively as a long, lower wattage unit for the same effect. I wasnt suggesting you buy, or use them.
