UV sterilizer bulb size

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Reefer911

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I have a 25 watt aqua UV sterilizer and looking at replacement bulbs online, the 57w bulb is the same length as the 25w.

I’m assuming the plugs are the same for each, so looks like I could simply place the 57w bulb in the housing and be good to go.

Has anyone done this?
 
Admittedly, I know very little about electricity, as you can probably tell by the following question…

Then why don’t we have to worry about power supply when changing different wattage light bulbs in our homes?
 
The power supply for the 57-watt is most likely different.
It is, different PN pic is from aqua uv's site. I have a 25, 40 & 57w setup. Different output for each bulb wattage

If the OP wants to save a buck, some use the pentair transformer instead as it covers a wider rating.

OP, search, the answers are here. Many have already done exactly what your asking.

Screenshot_20231026-075358.png
 
Looking at the UV sizing chart on the Aqua UV website, looks like the larger wattage bulb would require too high of flows anyway.

I’ll be running mine off the return pump via manifold. I’ll control the flow with a ball valve
 
Admittedly, I know very little about electricity, as you can probably tell by the following question…

Then why don’t we have to worry about power supply when changing different wattage light bulbs in our homes?
Because all bulbs are different; if you’re talking 240v LED spotlights or CF bulbs they have a specific transformer / driver built in the base. If you have 12v LED spotlights the driver will supply (if specified correctly) as much current at 12v as the LED’s demand, whether that be 10w, 20w, 30w etc… Domestic strip fluorescent bulbs are defined wattage per length…. These work by Voltage from the electrodes causing electrons to migrate through the argon gas from one end of the tube to the other. The energy from this changes some of the liquid mercury into gas. As electrons and charged atoms move through the tube they will collide with the mercury gas atoms. The collisions excite the atoms so electrons increase in energy levels. When the electrons calm down and return to their original energy level they release light photons. These photons are ultraviolet but are made into visible light when they hit the phosphor coating of the tube. To make the lamp initially strike takes a LOT more voltage than to keep it lit, the starter and ballast have to be matched to the bulb to allow this to happen. UV-C lamps work very similar to this but without the Phosphor coating…

Back to your original question, yes you could put the 80w bulb in the 39w housing, but you’d have to buy a replacement 80w ballast from D-D to make it work…
 

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