Viparspectra 165watt, Anyone using these?

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Nicholas Dushynsky

Nicholas Dushynsky

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My tank after the loss of sps and rescape I have hammers directly below the light and I dont think they like the settings the lights are on, which is 50 blue 1 white. I would like to know if I could run them at like 25 blue and 1 white and if this would be enough par or still too much for the hammers. The light is 9 inches off the water and the hammers are about 6 below the surface.
I think the hammers were fine before as they were off to the side and lower down and weren't getting blasted but I dont know of anyone running them this low.
 

ph123uk

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Hi Nicholas - you seem to be chopping and changing light intensities far too much - this will annoy the Corals more than just sticking with a stable setting - i'd suggest 40 blue and 5 white - my wifes softie tank is under those settings and everything is happy as larry :)
 
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Nicholas Dushynsky

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Hi Nicholas - you seem to be chopping and changing light intensities far too much - this will annoy the Corals more than just sticking with a stable setting - i'd suggest 40 blue and 5 white - my wifes softie tank is under those settings and everything is happy as larry :)
Thanks, I know I'm changing it around alot. When it was fine at the settings everything was growing at. The trouble is the euphillias were getting paler as in the ones higher up, as in they have been spitting zooxanthellae out,so I'm leaving it at a lower blue than before, it doesn't seem very bright as just blues on their own don't look very bright. And I know what too much light can do.
 

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That's the trouble with a mixed reef with SPS close to LPS etc - you have to be super savvy when placing the corals, even building up the rockwork so there is a larger gap between the SPS and the LPS - Have had to do it myself previously :)
 
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That's the trouble with a mixed reef with SPS close to LPS etc - you have to be super savvy when placing the corals, even building up the rockwork so there is a larger gap between the SPS and the LPS - Have had to do it myself previously :)
The trouble is all my sps died and I have made the structure higher where the sps had grown and have placed lps there so have had to turn the lighting down to compensate, just unsure how low to go as the only par readings for this light I can find are at 100% on a 2ft deep tank.
 

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Got one of the Viparspectra yesterday. Love this light, and I think it blows the newer marsaqua units out of the water color wise. I love that is has 4 420nm diodes right out the gate—I was expecting only two. It has a nice cool temperature that is close enough to my Radiums when I dial it in that I barely notice a difference. Color mixing is great, but I’ll probably try out some diffuser to see if it mixes color any better. I have it 14” over the water level CH1:60/CH2:16, and get about 40,000 lux on the water line. I have a standard 180g, and just bought 3 more units (for a total of 4) to replace the 3 250w halides. I still run 2 VHO bulbs and an old diy stunner strip, but may swap the VHO out for t5 when I run out of those bulbs.
 
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Nicholas Dushynsky

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Got one of the Viparspectra yesterday. Love this light, and I think it blows the newer marsaqua units out of the water color wise. I love that is has 4 420nm diodes right out the gate—I was expecting only two. It has a nice cool temperature that is close enough to my Radiums when I dial it in that I barely notice a difference. Color mixing is great, but I’ll probably try out some diffuser to see if it mixes color any better. I have it 14” over the water level CH1:60/CH2:16, and get about 40,000 lux on the water line. I have a standard 180g, and just bought 3 more units (for a total of 4) to replace the 3 250w halides. I still run 2 VHO bulbs and an old diy stunner strip, but may swap the VHO out for t5 when I run out of those bulbs.
Hi.
When your all set up, post a picture of your tank and keep us updated.
With the blending of colours, the lights are easy to take apart, some people remove the reflectors which are 90 degree ones and this makes them 120 with just the led itself. I have done it on my own before. But you have to run them at a higher percentage to get the penetration for light. I put mine back on because the spread is too wide and I got alot of light spill into the room
 

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Viparspectra vs Radium. Which is which of three lights? A, B, or C?

Pardon some of the dead SPS. I had a crash a couple of weeks ago due to my wife accidentally spraying too much Lysol in a nearby room.

842218CE-1786-4A31-9351-99C8708AB626.jpeg
 
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Nicholas Dushynsky

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I haven't looked inside on the transformers to see if they are or not. As the transformers are internal. Are you asking due to fire risk?
 

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I would like a higher end led ie like a G4 pro or hydra 26, but I can't warrant the price.
Nor should you. Those can grow anything every bit as well as something costing 10x as much. Nobody needs 12 channels (slight exaggeration but you get the point) of discrete control. That's absurd. Especially when all the best "research" out there points everyone to the AB+ schedule......which has all the blue and violet channels at the same strength, and the white red and green at the same strength....Seems funny to pay so much extra for so much more control, when most people are manually making their lights a 2 channel fixture, more or less. Besides. Anyone who thinks they're making a massive coral health impact by nudging their red up or down 1-2%, or their whites 1-2% just isn't grasping the big picture.

People have had absolutely thriving/teeming tanks bursting at the seams (figuratively) with coral for decades now using MH and T5 bulbs which shift their spectrum over time with little noticeable impact on growth and color. Adjusting a narrow band up or down to change your par by 5 micromole isn't going to make that big a difference. On paper and in practice your lights can do everything that any high end fixture can do minus the unnecessary single channel control. It's just about applying it and keeping all of your water parameters and flow perfect.
 
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Nor should you. Those can grow anything every bit as well as something costing 10x as much. Nobody needs 12 channels (slight exaggeration but you get the point) of discrete control. That's absurd. Especially when all the best "research" out there points everyone to the AB+ schedule......which has all the blue and violet channels at the same strength, and the white red and green at the same strength....Seems funny to pay so much extra for so much more control, when most people are manually making their lights a 2 channel fixture, more or less. Besides. Anyone who thinks they're making a massive coral health impact by nudging their red up or down 1-2%, or their whites 1-2% just isn't grasping the big picture.

People have had absolutely thriving/teeming tanks bursting at the seams (figuratively) with coral for decades now using MH and T5 bulbs which shift their spectrum over time with little noticeable impact on growth and color. Adjusting a narrow band up or down to change your par by 5 micromole isn't going to make that big a difference. On paper and in practice your lights can do everything that any high end fixture can do minus the unnecessary single channel control. It's just about applying it and keeping all of your water parameters and flow perfect.
Very well said, I started with power compacts on my dd24gal that I ran for 8.5 years, t5 on an old 3ft tank then made the transition to led for pure cost of the tube replacement. On the dd tank I modified the lid and used a TMC 1500NP aquaray tile that I used on it for 18months which was only blue and white channels and I used it for the first 6 months on my current tank.
Screenshot_20190911-150239_Photos.jpg

The spread wasnt enough really so bought the viparspectra.
Screenshot_20190911-150334_Photos.jpg
 
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