Wardrobe Nyos Opus 300 G2

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Jari

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Jari, what level are you running in the return pump chamber?

Hi! Slightly above the glass wall where the water enters the chamber. The stream is there to try minimize the precipitation and to keep the chamber free of detritus.

IMG_4515.jpeg
 

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Hi! Slightly above the glass wall where the water enters the chamber. The stream is there to try minimize the precipitation and to keep the chamber free of detritus.

IMG_4515.jpeg
Thank, i have mine way too low. Going to raise it up a little more.
 
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How’s the tank doing? Shopping around as I look to get back into the hobby and really like these guys
They are great tanks, good looking, silent and easy to maintain. I have been able to fit everything necessary in to the cabinet. If I had space, I would get a small IKEA etc cabinet next to it to put some of the controllers and other stuff there.
 
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I ordered two sets of new LUX Lens (https://www.luxdium.com/pages/lux-lens) to my Hydra26Hds, they arrived with a nice message from Tim.
IMG_4694.jpeg

The quality of lenses looks superb, and there is a very noticeable difference in clarity in contrast to original HYDRA lenses.

The original Aqua Illumination lense (some discoloration seen, event though the lenses are ~6months old):
IMG_4688.jpeg
IMG_4675.jpeg

LUX Lens:
IMG_4692.jpeg
IMG_4698.jpeg

Looks like I have to loan a PAR-meter again to see how much is pushed out from the Lux Engines :)
 
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The current coral burning setup for this 7 month old tank:

Two AI Hydra26HD with Luxdium Gold engines (I highly recommend hoarding the old Hydras or Primes for Luxdium modification :)) Reef Daylight schedule, two AI Blade Grows and one AI Blade Glow. The green euphyllia (grows like weed) on the right will be replaced with stags from Leonardo's Reef.

IMG_4701.jpeg IMG_4702.jpeg
 
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The first thing to do was to modify the sump to fit Smart Roller S from Reef Factory. Very easy using the Red Sea sump modification kit, just by removing one wall from the sedimentation chamber. The Smart Roller S fits nicely (at least the G2 version supplied with a ball valve), the only other modification needed is cutting the main drain a little bit shorter.
Out of interest, could you have rotated the roller 90 degrees and / or put it in the main section instead of removing the glass portion? You would have had to deal with some alterations to the PVC / add some flexible tubing, but just interested on how you ended up where you did as I consider my options for a similar build. Thanks!
 
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Out of interest, could you have rotated the roller 90 degrees and / or put it in the main section instead of removing the glass portion? You would have had to deal with some alterations to the PVC / add some flexible tubing, but just interested on how you ended up where you did as I consider my options for a similar build. Thanks!

Sure, with Smart Roller definitely it can be done. I just did not want to use that space since the roller fits snugly to the first chamber once modified. With bigger roller you would most likely need to use the main chamber.
 

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Sure, with Smart Roller definitely it can be done. I just did not want to use that space since the roller fits snugly to the first chamber once modified. With bigger roller you would most likely need to use the main chamber.
Thanks! I'd heard some people say a roller won't fit in the sump - which seemed strange to me. I think what they meant is it may not fit in the filter sock section, without some modification. Which makes much more sense to me! Thanks for clarifying!
 
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Thanks! I'd heard some people say a roller won't fit in the sump - which seemed strange to me. I think what they meant is it may not fit in the filter sock section, without some modification. Which makes much more sense to me! Thanks for clarifying!
It might be also possible that they are referring to other rollers - I guess Red Sea being one of the more common, bigger ones. Probably would not fit even with modification - not sure about their smallest one.

Smart Roller S from Reef Factory will fit to the first chamber when modified. Modification with Red Sea kit was super easy, 20-30min to remove glass sections.
 
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Current dosing: 1) Triton Flex Ca, 2) Triton Flex Mg, 3) Triton Flex KH, 4) Triton Trace correction mix (adjusted based on ICP - Iodine, Vanadium, Manganese, Iron, Strontium, Nickel, Cobalt, Cromium), 5) Triton fluoride (needs to be dosed separately), 6) Ammonium bicarbonate, 7) Smirnoff, 8) Nyos Phosphate +

IMG_4771.jpeg
 

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Current dosing: 1) Triton Flex Ca, 2) Triton Flex Mg, 3) Triton Flex KH, 4) Triton Trace correction mix (adjusted based on ICP - Iodine, Vanadium, Manganese, Iron, Strontium, Nickel, Cobalt, Cromium), 5) Triton fluoride (needs to be dosed separately), 6) Ammonium bicarbonate, 7) Smirnoff, 8) Nyos Phosphate +

IMG_4771.jpeg
Are you auto testing regularly and dosing off of that or just dosing off of ICP and/or historical trends?
 
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Are you auto testing regularly and dosing off of that or just dosing off of ICP and/or historical trends?
I'm testing at least once a week main parameters: nitrate, phosphate, ammonia, alkalinity (Hanna), Mg and Ca (Salifert). pH and temperature I can see all the time. Traces I dose quite conservatively - make 30 day mix based on Triton suggestions (corrections added to the same mix).

Since I started dosing vodka a week ago (Miami Reef new chart), I need to follow nitrate and phosphate roughly every other day not to bottom out those - and increase ammonia and/or phosphate accordingly. Still trying to find a sweet spot.
 

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Random one on your sump setup - where do you have the temp sensors and where do you have your heaters. I've ready you want sensors upstream from heaters, so they are measuring the water temp coming in from the DT. But with the configuration to remove the first baffle to make room for the roller, then the 'first' chamber also includes the skimmer chamber, where I think most people have their heaters. Would love to know how you set it up. Thanks!
 
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Random one on your sump setup - where do you have the temp sensors and where do you have your heaters. I've ready you want sensors upstream from heaters, so they are measuring the water temp coming in from the DT. But with the configuration to remove the first baffle to make room for the roller, then the 'first' chamber also includes the skimmer chamber, where I think most people have their heaters. Would love to know how you set it up. Thanks!

I actually removed my heater just last week :). I'm trying to keep my water temp close to 24C (preferably lower), and noticed that I don't need the heater at all. It used to be behind the skimmer and kalk-stirrer.

IMG_4985.jpeg

The sensors I have in the first section - from top to down in pucture: pH-probe, ORP-probe, Temp-sensor cord

IMG_4988.jpeg
 

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