Cranking up the well pressure is not always wise. Most domestic uses do not require such pressures and when you raise the pressure it causes your well pump to cycle on and off more often. Replacing a deep well pump is much more expensive than buying a $130 Aquatec 8800 RO booster pump.
When I was a well pump service tech we used to get a lot of service calls from people who set their pressure switches up higher and burned their pump up due to too many starts per hour, not allowing the motor windings to cool down.
I have well water. Have a water softener, whole house filter, carbon filter, have 60ppm TDS at the tap. I have a 5 stage rodi. I use a booster pump cause I have low pressure. Never had any issues at all. 1.5 years and I only changed the di resin once. I have to change it again cause I got 1ppm comming out of di now. Having only 60ppm at the tap I feel my rodi filters are lasting quite long. I back flush after every use.
Turning up the pressure switch to 80 psi is max house pressure allowed in Ma. Any higher pressure coming into house is considered not safe for plumbing fixtures the pump actually turns on less often due to the pressure built up in well tank and dropping from 80psi to 40psi as to a 40/60 psi to turn on switch the pump will run a bit longer to build up higher pressure in well tank when it does kick on. you will get shorter cycles if the air bladder pressure in tank is not also raised to accommodate the added pressure coming into well tank
Normally with a pressure switch the spread is preset so an 80 psi switch would drop to 60-65 psi not to 40. 80 psi comes from the Uniform Plumbing Code which is recognized everywhere but it mostly applies to new construction and remodels when you have to apply for a building permit and get inspections. While it is a great code document, once you own your home yu don't have to follow everything to the letter, I run my RO/DI at 100 psi and have never had an issue in 7 years. I also managed municipal water systems in more than one location that had static pressures in the 100-110 psi range and only new subdivisions installed pressure regulators since it is a code requirement.
That being said, I feel 35-50 psi is sufficient for most domestic well systems and 55-60 for most municipal systems where they are also providing fire protection from the same distribution system.
I run my reef on private well water, and its really not as bad as people say. Everything is very healthy, the only issue is the occasional algae outbreak, but if you put in the work it can be battled.
If I didnt have a private well though I would be using RO/DI, plus its a small, basic tank.
County health dept. says my well is fine... but I disagree. Just doesn't taste good.
I've got an RO drinking water filter, feeds my fridge water and ice-makers (two of them), and a drinking water faucet at the kitchen sink. Got it's own 5g pressure tank. Nice, clean water for cooking and drinking, crystal clear RO water ice... no need to buy and haul bottled water.
So... Booster pump to bump the 35lb well pressure to 60lb, then a prefilter, 2x carbon blocks, then a 75gpd Filmtec membrane. A permeate pump brings the downstream pressure back up, then the pressure tank. Water exiting the storage tank runs through an inline carbon block, as a final polish, and then to the fridges and sink.
Tee'd off of that, is a line running to my sump closet. That line passes through a 3 canister DI filter on it's way to my mixing station, ATO, and Kalkwasser reservoir. Zero TDS, and ICP-OES testing of the RO/DI water put it near perfect (does show a little silicon)
With a little thought, even poor quality well water can give you what you need.