What algae am I dealing with here?

Reefing.with.Rich

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It’s green and I can brush it right off but it comes right back
Been in the hobby 14 years and never seen it until this newest tank build

Tank is about 8-9 months old

Phosphates-0.03
Nitrate-5
Cal-448
Alk-8.5
Mag-1500
Salinity-1.026

IMG_6556.jpeg IMG_6557.jpeg IMG_6558.jpeg
 

vetteguy53081

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It’s green and I can brush it right off but it comes right back
Been in the hobby 14 years and never seen it until this newest tank build

Tank is about 8-9 months old

Phosphates-0.03
Nitrate-5
Cal-448
Alk-8.5
Mag-1500
Salinity-1.026

IMG_6556.jpeg IMG_6557.jpeg IMG_6558.jpeg
Will need pics under white lighting to clearly see
 
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Reefing.with.Rich

Reefing.with.Rich

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Will need pics under white lighting to clearly see
I have some red cyano iv been dealing with and then this on top of it. I figured green cyano but unless it requires different treatment than cyano clean by KZ(which iv been using daily for the last several days) then I need to attempt something else
 

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Lavey29

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I have some red cyano iv been dealing with and then this on top of it. I figured green cyano but unless it requires different treatment than cyano clean by KZ(which iv been using daily for the last several days) then I need to attempt something else
Cyano mainly flourishes with abundant light and lack of flow. Can you increase flow to the affected areas and reduce lights to 6 hours with blue and uv only no whites. Leave lights like this for a week and see how it goes.
 

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I have some red cyano iv been dealing with and then this on top of it. I figured green cyano but unless it requires different treatment than cyano clean by KZ(which iv been using daily for the last several days) then I need to attempt something else
This is the reason I asked for white lighting. This appears to be a combination of green slime and Cyano.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high. . . . A few things to check
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

Is this tank at or near a window?

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
 
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This is the reason I asked for white lighting. This appears to be a combination of green slime and Cyano.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high. . . . A few things to check
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

Is this tank at or near a window?

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
With the layout of my tank/ scape I can’t add more flow without my torches and gonis getting beat up. As for lights I run 0% whites. My phosphate and nitrates have always been in check and on the low end(phos 0.03-0.06)(nitrate 2-6)
I have like 200 dwarf ceriths, 50 Florida ceriths, give or take 30 astrea
My skimmer is the curve 7 elite, and my system is the IM 100EXT with nuvo 60g sump
I run UV 24/7
Bare bottom tank
7 state rodi unit(I change the filters every 3 months)
I run HW salt(which iv ran a long time)
Lights are xr15 gen 6 blues(red and whites at 0% with the rest running at 65% intensity)
 

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With the layout of my tank/ scape I can’t add more flow without my torches and gonis getting beat up. As for lights I run 0% whites. My phosphate and nitrates have always been in check and on the low end(phos 0.03-0.06)(nitrate 2-6)
I have like 200 dwarf ceriths, 50 Florida ceriths, give or take 30 astrea
My skimmer is the curve 7 elite, and my system is the IM 100EXT with nuvo 60g sump
I run UV 24/7
Bare bottom tank
7 state rodi unit(I change the filters every 3 months)
I run HW salt(which iv ran a long time)
Lights are xr15 gen 6 blues(red and whites at 0% with the rest running at 65% intensity)
Thats wierd.
Something is supporting the growth of this. does the substance blow away or does it feel slimy to the touch?
 
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Cyano mainly flourishes with abundant light and lack of flow. Can you increase flow to the affected areas and reduce lights to 6 hours with blue and uv only no whites. Leave lights like this for a week and see how it goes.
I run 0 whites and my flow is just about the best I can get it with how my scape is set up and how I have a torch garden on the right side of tank and goni garden on the left side
 
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Thats wierd.
Something is supporting the growth of this. does the substance blow away or does it feel slimy to the touch?
It does blow off but not fully
I can get in there with a brush and brush it off but it just comes right back
And now iv noticed it getting up onto some of the discs my gonis are on
 

vetteguy53081

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It does blow off but not fully
I can get in there with a brush and brush it off but it just comes right back
And now iv noticed it getting up onto some of the discs my gonis are on
May very well be cyano and green slime blend
 

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