What is the best reef method?

Paul B

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Is there a diff between granular dolomite lime and dolomite gravel or is it the same thing?
I don't know, but it looks like this.



 

Paul B

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They used to use it as an aggragate to mix with other things like cement or marble to make tombstones and other structures. It is not hardly used any longer except in my tank. It is made of calcium and magnesium so 2 things we need in our tanks
 

ZoWhat

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The best reefing advice:

The Office Dwight GIF
 

Goaway

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This is going to sound rude and snide.
Reef tank means work. You want easy, pick species that are easy and cheap.
You want it easier? Watch other people's reefs on youtube.
The moment a coral is stressed and going downhill. No method on your list will save it or prevent it.
 

Montiman

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I completely understand where this thread has gone but I think there may be a better way of helping the spirit of the OP's questions while acknowledging that there is more than one way to skin a cat.

What I would say is that every successful reefing method has some results in common even if the method of achieving them is different. As long as you achieve the results picking the method is a personal preference.

What do you need to achieve?

Proper filtration

Filtration is taking out the bad stuff. Filtration can be nothing but alot of waterchanges or it can be a skimmer, fuge, deep sand bed, media reactors and other technologies

Supplementation

Supplementation is putting in the good stuff. This can be 2 part, kalk, calcium reactors, and minor element supplements.

The other major components of reefing are light and flow but all of the common reefing methods you mention like zeovit, aquaforest, redsea, triton generally agree on lighting and flow so really the question is on filtration and Supplementation.

When making a decision on how to proceed I find it best to conceptualize the various methods as a continuum where more control = more work while less control = less work.

This is mostly what we debate. How much control do you want and how much work do you want to do.

In methods like zeovit and triton control is high. Many specialized filtration products, testing, and supplementing are used but this can equate to alot of work or complexity. It also leads to minute control over every parameter.

Methods like Paul Bs or mine have less control but also have less work, more simplicity, and more margin for error.

Decide how much work you want to do and how much control you want. You will likely only get the best possible color and growth with perfect control but my experience is that you also open yourself up to making mistakes that can be detrimental.

In other words how meticulous are you able and willing to be.
 

Goaway

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I completely understand where this thread has gone but I think there may be a better way of helping the spirit of the OP's questions while acknowledging that there is more than one way to skin a cat.
Sadly, he wants a promising method. I don't understand what that means, I'm dumb.
Reef is work the moment illness strikes. We battle our water chemistry to prevent stress and illness.
No matter how much work we put in, something happens. We have to be diligent to combat and sometimes it fails. There is no fail proof method.
How can someone answer his question?
So I have seen several different methods of reefing since starting. Triton, Zeovit, BRS, etc. What ones do you run and feel free to talk about your experiences. I want to follow something tried and true so that I come out with the best tried and true results possible.

Sadly your post is as best as one could.
 

Reefvision

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They used to use it as an aggragate to mix with other things like cement or marble to make tombstones and other structures. It is not hardly used any longer except in my tank. It is made of calcium and magnesium so 2 things we need in our tanks
Thanks for your reply; I did see that product (pretty sure) on Amazon and elsewhere. Mainly sold in powder form . Looks like the gravel type would be a good substrate for reef use. To the original question , I think the less complicated your system is the chances of you being successful-my .02.
 

Goaway

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I thought about this for awhile, something tried and true that some people don't do.

Quarantine corals before adding.
Zeovit from my understanding is for low nutrient systems.
I keep a lot of the sump dedicated to a refugium. I watch and adjust my water flow.
Test kits are important. There is no method behind what I do. It works for what I keep.
 

Arego

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Simple, start with just water changes until you can keep it stable for long stretches of time. As you stock keep close tabs on where your system is and ramp up from there.

Once dosing is needed you can then decide based on your personal availability to the system you pick. To just quit one and go 180 to another will leave your tank in shambles. Start simple until something specific comes up then you can address it, whether by a unique method or just plain water changes.

This is how I've done it, I wanted to learn each gear in the machine first, it's relationship with others, then at that point decide how much physical commitment to that method am I willing to, or able, to do. My bottom line is don't make it any harder than what it needs to be to get the results you're looking for.
 

PeterB113

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Not sure if there's a name to the method I use. I started a 20g long 7mos ago 15lbs live rock 20lbs sand DC powerhead heater and AI prime light. I don't dose but I do weekley 10% water changes. Everything seems to be good. When I upgrade I'll most likely do the same thing. I also have a mini 15$ HOB filter i got on Amazon.

 

Paul B

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, I think the less complicated your system is the chances of you being successful-my .02.
I feel simpler is better but thats just me. My own tank now uses almost exactly the same equipment, maybe not the "exact" devices as it did in 1971.

The only new things I use are an alk and calcium test kit and algae scrubber. I still use a swing arm hydrometer even though I have a refractometer someone gave me but I never used it. Like Montiman said, we go simple. I don't even know what zeovit, aquaforest, redsea, etc. is. No, I am not kidding :oops:

By doing this, I really have nothing that could break or go wrong. Of course I don't and can't keep my parameters exactly where some "expert" says they should be, but I don't care.

Parameters don't run your tank, you do and the best advice I think is common sense.

IMO, a tank doesn't need suppliments, vitamins, bacteria in a bottle or anything else except sea water or fake sea water and the correct food. The correct food may not be only what you can buy at an aquarium store although from these forums, you would think that way.

I also have no medications as common sense keeps my fish healthy and spawning some for 30 years.

I don't have the nicest looking tank on here by far as some make me jealous, but I bet it is one of the simplest and needs the least amount of work. Almost nothing.

 

Reefasaurus X

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I can only speak from my own personal 25 years in the hobby. For me, the Reef Moonshiners method has been by far the best. This only applies if your want to keep any and every type of coral and have them color up to their max potential. If you just want to keep softies and a few of the hardier LPS, just do water changes. But if you want thriving corals of all types including SPS/acroporas, Reef Moonshiners is the way to go. When you do it right, your main problem will be what to do when all your colonies grow too big. Here’s a pic of my tank for reference.
 

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Anthony Scholfield

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Is Ultra Low Nutrient a reefing "method"? That's what I just started.
I guess you could say its a "method". It seems to me though that it is a "method" that is losing traction. Of coarse still plenty of people go down that road with success and you can to.

I think more and more people are finding their corals like nutrients though, just not a dirty tank, and i think there is a difference.

I know when i started this about 3yrs ago. i thought ULNS was the way to go. I was often told or read that N's & P's aren't great, eliminate them. Come to find out i chased numbers and struggled a lot. Then i stopped all that and found my system did much better. I manage my N's & P's but dont try to control them. The tank gives me good indicators.
 

R33fDaddy

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I guess you could say its a "method". It seems to me though that it is a "method" that is losing traction. Of coarse still plenty of people go down that road with success and you can to.

I think more and more people are finding their corals like nutrients though, just not a dirty tank, and i think there is a difference.

I know when i started this about 3yrs ago. i thought ULNS was the way to go. I was often told or read that N's & P's aren't great, eliminate them. Come to find out i chased numbers and struggled a lot. Then i stopped all that and found my system did much better. I manage my N's & P's but dont try to control them. The tank gives me good indicators.
I definitely can understand that.

My goal is to feed my fish and corals so both of them are at their best. Currently feeding my fish a half sheet of Nora and 1 Cube of food per day. My Corals get Reef Energy AB+ everyday. Currently I'm at 0 Nitrates so I may try going to two cubes of food. Point is that I want to feed whatever makes my reef the happiest without worrying about Nutrients.

Is That what Ultra Low Nutrient even is lol?
 

Anthony Scholfield

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I definitely can understand that.

My goal is to feed my fish and corals so both of them are at their best. Currently feeding my fish a half sheet of Nora and 1 Cube of food per day. My Corals get Reef Energy AB+ everyday. Currently I'm at 0 Nitrates so I may try going to two cubes of food. Point is that I want to feed whatever makes my reef the happiest without worrying about Nutrients.

Is That what Ultra Low Nutrient even is lol?
I think most mean keeping N's & P's at near undetectable levels on purpose. At least thats what i took and take it to mean.
 

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