What is this? Algae?

[EnterName]

Yes nitrite at .5

Nitrate (NO₃) tests work by converting a fraction (for example 1/100) of the present nitrate in your sample to nitrite (NO₂) and then actually measure nitrite not nitrate. They then multiply the detected nitrite levels by the denominator of said fraction (in this case 100) to approximate nitrate.

You measured 0.5ppm nitrite, so even if there is no nitrate at all in your system this example test would report 50ppm nitrate for this reason.

0.5ppm ⋅ 100 = 50ppm​

It's a simplification of how these tests work, but you get the rough idea and why nitrite will skew nitrate tests. Unfortunately most nitrate tests don't really explain this or come with a table that helps you to account for present nitrite. Tropic Marin is an exception from this rule, which I really like: https://www.tropic-marin-smartinfo.com/no2-no3-test?lang=en

However, nitrite isn't dangerous at realistically achievable levels in reef tanks so you can ignore it and don't need to test it. However, it tells us that you don't need to worry about nitrate being too high right now, as we simply don't know how much nitrate is actually in your tank at the moment.

The tank is young and will go through quite a lot of microbiological development in the next months. I would not worry about any outbreaks. Diatoms are normal, green hair algae will follow. Very often dinoflagellates will join at some point, but that's not an issue in young tanks, it will pass.

 

[DoriReef]

Yes nitrite at .5

Nitrate (NO₃) tests work by converting a fraction (for example 1/100) of the present nitrate in your sample to nitrite (NO₂) and then actually measure nitrite not nitrate. They then multiply the detected nitrite levels by the denominator of said fraction (in this case 100) to approximate nitrate.

You measured 0.5ppm nitrite, so even if there is no nitrate at all in your system this example test would report 50ppm nitrate for this reason.

0.5ppm ⋅ 100 = 50ppm​

It's a simplification of how these tests work, but you get the rough idea and why nitrite will skew nitrate tests. Unfortunately most nitrate tests don't really explain this or come with a table that helps you to account for present nitrite. Tropic Marin is an exception from this rule, which I really like: https://www.tropic-marin-smartinfo.com/no2-no3-test?lang=en

However, nitrite isn't dangerous at realistically achievable levels in reef tanks so you can ignore it and don't need to test it. However, it tells us that you don't need to worry about nitrate being too high right now, as we simply don't know how much nitrate is actually in your tank at the moment.

The tank is young and will go through quite a lot of microbiological development in the next months. I would not worry about any outbreaks. Diatoms are normal, green hair algae will follow. Very often dinoflagellates will join at some point, but that's not an issue in young tanks, it will pass.

Wow thank you so much for the break down helped alot actually. Currently doing a 3 day blackout for the diatoms and gonna introduce a few trochus and nassarius and a chaeto fuge with copes to help

 

[EnterName]

Yes nitrite at .5

Nitrate (NO₃) tests work by converting a fraction (for example 1/100) of the present nitrate in your sample to nitrite (NO₂) and then actually measure nitrite not nitrate. They then multiply the detected nitrite levels by the denominator of said fraction (in this case 100) to approximate nitrate.

You measured 0.5ppm nitrite, so even if there is no nitrate at all in your system this example test would report 50ppm nitrate for this reason.

0.5ppm ⋅ 100 = 50ppm​

It's a simplification of how these tests work, but you get the rough idea and why nitrite will skew nitrate tests. Unfortunately most nitrate tests don't really explain this or come with a table that helps you to account for present nitrite. Tropic Marin is an exception from this rule, which I really like: https://www.tropic-marin-smartinfo.com/no2-no3-test?lang=en

However, nitrite isn't dangerous at realistically achievable levels in reef tanks so you can ignore it and don't need to test it. However, it tells us that you don't need to worry about nitrate being too high right now, as we simply don't know how much nitrate is actually in your tank at the moment.

The tank is young and will go through quite a lot of microbiological development in the next months. I would not worry about any outbreaks. Diatoms are normal, green hair algae will follow. Very often dinoflagellates will join at some point, but that's not an issue in young tanks, it will pass.

Wow thank you so much for the break down helped alot actually. Currently doing a 3 day blackout for the diatoms and gonna introduce a few trochus and nassarius and a chaeto fuge with copes to help

I don't think you need a blackout for the diatoms. Diatoms are always present in a tank and once other competing organisms establish as well and excessive silicates are "used up" diatom growth will slow down and you won't notice any brown discoloration on the sand anymore.

I personally would wait with the snails. There is not much for them to eat in such a young tank, they might starve. Once you have decent green algae growth they will be much happier

 

[DoriReef]

Yes nitrite at .5

Nitrate (NO₃) tests work by converting a fraction (for example 1/100) of the present nitrate in your sample to nitrite (NO₂) and then actually measure nitrite not nitrate. They then multiply the detected nitrite levels by the denominator of said fraction (in this case 100) to approximate nitrate.

You measured 0.5ppm nitrite, so even if there is no nitrate at all in your system this example test would report 50ppm nitrate for this reason.

0.5ppm ⋅ 100 = 50ppm​

It's a simplification of how these tests work, but you get the rough idea and why nitrite will skew nitrate tests. Unfortunately most nitrate tests don't really explain this or come with a table that helps you to account for present nitrite. Tropic Marin is an exception from this rule, which I really like: https://www.tropic-marin-smartinfo.com/no2-no3-test?lang=en

However, nitrite isn't dangerous at realistically achievable levels in reef tanks so you can ignore it and don't need to test it. However, it tells us that you don't need to worry about nitrate being too high right now, as we simply don't know how much nitrate is actually in your tank at the moment.

The tank is young and will go through quite a lot of microbiological development in the next months. I would not worry about any outbreaks. Diatoms are normal, green hair algae will follow. Very often dinoflagellates will join at some point, but that's not an issue in young tanks, it will pass.

Wow thank you so much for the break down helped alot actually. Currently doing a 3 day blackout for the diatoms and gonna introduce a few trochus and nassarius and a chaeto fuge with copes to help

I don't think you need a blackout for the diatoms. Diatoms are always present in a tank and once other competing organisms establish as well and excessive silicates are "used up" diatom growth will slow down and you won't notice any brown discoloration on the sand anymore.

I personally would wait with the snails. There is not much for them to eat in such a young tank, they might starve. Once you have decent green algae growth they will be much happier

Won’t eat the diatoms and anything else that comes? And missed food from fish and corals??

 

[EnterName]

Won’t eat the diatoms and anything else that comes? And missed food from fish and corals??

The diatoms won't stay this numerous forever, and snails often graze the glass instead, since it apparently makes it easier to get at diatoms and other biofilm-growing organisms than picking them off the sand. Depending on the snail, they may or may not touch missed fish food. Usually hermits or fish will be faster. Snails tend to go for biofilm and algae (depending on the species), with a few exceptions that actively hunt. I would suggest looking at what the snails you want to buy actually prefer to eat in nature, and checking whether you can already offer it in your tank. I'm not sure how much biofilm is actively growing or whether it's the right kind. In the beginning I assume most of it is bacterial (and diatoms, which are very early settlers). Later on, other microalgae and even macroalgae will join, but this takes a while.

 

[DoriReef]

Won’t eat the diatoms and anything else that comes? And missed food from fish and corals??

The diatoms won't stay this numerous forever, and snails often graze the glass instead, since it apparently makes it easier to get at diatoms and other biofilm-growing organisms than picking them off the sand. Depending on the snail, they may or may not touch missed fish food. Usually hermits or fish will be faster. Snails tend to go for biofilm and algae (depending on the species), with a few exceptions that actively hunt. I would suggest looking at what the snails you want to buy actually prefer to eat in nature, and checking whether you can already offer it in your tank. I'm not sure how much biofilm is actively growing or whether it's the right kind. In the beginning I assume most of it is bacterial (and diatoms, which are very early settlers). Later on, other microalgae and even macroalgae will join, but this takes a while.

Ok I’ll hold off for now on snails then and just get a cope population going for tank cleaning and future food. Thanks for the help on this