What is this brown slime?

[hivelyj6]

No bubbles in this stuff except when matted on algae. It is a fluorescence orange when under blue light. I'm stumped and thinking it's cyano or maybe some kind of dino.

any help is greatly appreciated

 

[DE FISH]

I’m thinking more Dino but without a scope it’s hard to tell I’ve never had cyano look like that though

 

[vetteguy53081]

No bubbles in this stuff except when matted on algae. It is a fluorescence orange when under blue light. I'm stumped and thinking it's cyano or maybe some kind of dino.

any help is greatly appreciated

Please post pic under white lighting

 

[hivelyj6]

Please post pic under white lighting

It is under feed mode on the ai prime. Not sure why it's blue tinted. Let me try again.

 

[DE FISH]

It is under feed mode on the ai prime. Not sure why it's blue tinted. Let me try again.

still looking Dino to me :/ again without a scope I can’t be 100% sure. what’s your no3/po4 ?

 

[hivelyj6]

still looking Dino to me :/ again without a scope I can’t be 100% sure. what’s your no3/po4 ?

Nitrates are 2-5ppm with the salifert
PO4 is difficult to tell with the salifert kit definitely .1ppm or less.

 

[DE FISH]

Nitrates are 2-5ppm with the salifert
PO4 is difficult to tell with the salifert kit definitely .1ppm or less.

The salifert po4 is trash unless you have super human vision for low range readings a Hanna ulr phosphate checker would be something I advise you invest in.

how old is the tank ?

 

[vetteguy53081]

It is under feed mode on the ai prime. Not sure why it's blue tinted. Let me try again.

Dino does not necessarily have bubbles until gases are trapped within slime but looks like Dinos to me. Keep treatment simple:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

 

[hivelyj6]

The salifert po4 is trash unless you have super human vision for low range readings a Hanna ulr phosphate checker would be something I advise you invest in.

how old is the tank ?

Yeah, I've been meaning to grab one but it slips my mind until a problem shows up. Around the 4 month mark. The tank was a reset with live rock from a buddy's tank. Upon using the higher sensitivity on the salifert test, I'm sure PO4 is basically undetectable.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Nitrates are 2-5ppm with the salifert
PO4 is difficult to tell with the salifert kit definitely .1ppm or less.

generally when these readings are low or bottom out is there a cause for dino.
The problem arises when conditions in the aquarium break the biological balance and some dinoflagellate species spread uncontrollably, smothering the rest of the aquarium inhabitants. If the dinoflagellate species in question has the ability to produce toxins (usually in ostreopsis), they will.
The problem often arises when we try to bring cleanliness it to the limit, in order to improve its appearance and color of corals.
They tend to occur suddenly when the aquarium water reaches an extraordinary cleanliness, in which most microorganisms perishes for lack of food. With no other organisms that can stop them, this type of dinoflagellate can multiply so fast that when we realize it's late and we will find an aquarium full of brown slime suffocating fish and invertebrates. These dinoflagellates possess chloroplasts enabling them to synthesize their own food even under a minimal amount of light. Some species can form cysts called pellicles which allow them to remain in the aquarium for months although we have completely sterilized or kept in complete darkness. Once the light or the right conditions come back, they will reappear and thus problems.

 

[DE FISH]

Yeah, I've been meaning to grab one but it slips my mind until a problem shows up. Around the 4 month mark. The tank was a reset with live rock from a buddy's tank. Upon using the higher sensitivity on the salifert test, I'm sure PO4 is basically undetectable.

If your phosphate is undetectable then that could cause a Dino outbreak especially in a young tank like yours however I still wouldn’t trust salifert for po4 even at low range I never had any luck with that test kit

 

[DE FISH]

generally when these readings are low or bottom out is there a cause for dino.
The problem arises when conditions in the aquarium break the biological balance and some dinoflagellate species spread uncontrollably, smothering the rest of the aquarium inhabitants. If the dinoflagellate species in question has the ability to produce toxins (usual in ostreopsis, gambierdiscus and prorocentrum to name a few)
The problem often arises when we try to bring cleanliness it to the limit, in order to improve its appearance and color of corals.
They tend to occur suddenly when the aquarium water reaches an extraordinary cleanliness, in which most microorganisms perishes for lack of food. With no other organisms that can stop them, this type of dinoflagellate can multiply so fast that when we realize it's late and we will find an aquarium full of brown and ochre slime suffocating fish and invertebrates. These dinoflagellates possess chloroplasts enabling them to synthesize their own food even under a minimal amount of light. Some species can form cysts called pellicles which allow them to remain in the aquarium for months although we have completely sterilized or kept in complete darkness. Once the light or the right conditions come back, they will reappear and thus problems.

If you don’t trust me trust this guy another one of our gurus

 

[hivelyj6]

Dino does not necessarily have bubbles until gases are trapped within slime but looks like Dinos to me. Keep treatment simple:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

Fantastic! I have an old UV I've used on what I believed to be dinos before. Think that would help in case of osteropsis?

 

[hivelyj6]

Fantastic! I have an old UV I've used on what I believed to be dinos before. Think that would help in case of osteropsis?

Also, I did just dose pods and have been dosing phyto. I wonder if this caused my outbreak.

 

[DE FISH]

Fantastic! I have an old UV I've used on what I believed to be dinos before. Think that would help in case of osteropsis?

Ostreopsis goes in to the water column at night so uv will do a good job at eradicating it, however you will need to get your nutrients inline otherwise it will just return.

 

[DE FISH]

Also, I did just dose pods and have been dosing phyto. I wonder if this caused my outbreak.

I highly doubt it, it’s your lack of nutrients and a young eco system that’s caused the outbreak in my opinion.

 

[hivelyj6]

I highly doubt it, it’s your lack of nutrients and a young eco system that’s caused the outbreak in my opinion.

Gotcha, thank you for your help! I appreciate the push towards the Hanna ulr too. I just ordered one.

 

[taricha]

It is under feed mode on the ai prime. Not sure why it's blue tinted. Let me try again.

Agreed with others that it looks dino-ish.