What nutrients does turf algae consume

BrandonS

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I apologize if this has been answered before? I have heard that if running an algae turf scrubber long term you need to dose micro nutrients as well. Which is why triton method is different because it has those elements added. Does anyone know what gets depleted by turf algae? potassium, iron, etc... what does everyone dose? Would it's depletion happen faster than regular water changes would replace?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I apologize if this has been answered before? I have heard that if running an algae turf scrubber long term you need to dose micro nutrients as well. Which is why triton method is different because it has those elements added. Does anyone know what gets depleted by turf algae? potassium, iron, etc... what does everyone dose? Would it's depletion happen faster than regular water changes would replace?

All trace element dosing methods, not just triton, add the many trace elements that all photosynthetic organisms need (corals, algae, etc.) Iron, manganese, vanadium, etc. Trace elements can be easily depleted since there is so little.

Potassium is not a trace element (very low levels, like 1 ppb), but a major ion (400,000 ppb), and is not necessarily depleted. I do not recommend dosing it unless one is monitoring it. It did not deplete in my tank.

Water changes certainly add back trace elements, as do foods. Foods likely add much more than water changes in many tanks.
 
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All trace element dosing methods, not just triton, add the many trace elements that all photosynthetic organisms need (corals, algae, etc.) Iron, manganese, vanadium, etc. Trace elements can be easily depleted since there is so little.

Potassium is not a trace element (very low levels, like 1 ppb), but a major ion (400,000 ppb), and is not necessarily depleted. I do not recommend dosing it unless one is monitoring it. It did not deplete in my tank.

Water changes certainly add back trace elements, as do foods. Foods likely add much more than water changes in many tanks.
Thank you for the reply and help! Sounds like a general dosing regime of trace elements would work. Have any favorites?
 

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they all work. I have red sea trace colors - bought it first before using AF.

id say I have to prefer balling method strategy though and use a salt less mineral mix (from Aquaforest) into my 2 part additive, for ionic balance.
 

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I run triton and dose iodine weekly after 2 icp tests reported it low. I attribute it to chaeto harvesting, but have not verified.
 

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I would definitely keep an eye on potassium and traces with a new scrubber and do periodic ICP until you know how things balance. I’m not doing water changes, but a number of my traces constantly plummet unless I dose weekly. In my system, potassium, molybdenum, manganese, iodine, can all drop significantly and some to zero in as little as 3-4 weeks. Dosing to maintain them all at natural levels definitely improved tank health for me. In fact I’ve taken to dosing manganese, molybdenum and iodine daily, and noticed some improvement in my euphyllia health.
 

Turbo's Aquatics

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IME an algae scrubber definitely has the potential to suck down Potassium (K). This is an element to watch if you are seeing fading monti caps in particular. Testing is kinda tricky, I've found most kits are not very accurate on a finite level (i.e. giving you the exact reading) but if you run the tests consistently, you can get a fairly accurate differential from one test to the next. Salifert has been my preference in the past. Overdosing is rather difficult since you can raise K by a large amount in one shot (as much as 100ppm increase daily) and can run it up to 1000 ppm without causing issues (my reference for both of these figures is taken from a presentation by Justin Credible at a local reef club event several years ago and was in reference to growing I believe gonis and montis). But always test first.
 
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IME an algae scrubber definitely has the potential to suck down Potassium (K). This is an element to watch if you are seeing fading monti caps in particular. Testing is kinda tricky, I've found most kits are not very accurate on a finite level (i.e. giving you the exact reading) but if you run the tests consistently, you can get a fairly accurate differential from one test to the next. Salifert has been my preference in the past. Overdosing is rather difficult since you can raise K by a large amount in one shot (as much as 100ppm increase daily) and can run it up to 1000 ppm without causing issues (my reference for both of these figures is taken from a presentation by Justin Credible at a local reef club event several years ago and was in reference to growing I believe gonis and montis). But always test first.
My Montis have been bland so I will check this. I have red sea coral colors and some rest kits coming. Will update.
 
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BrandonS

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So tested potassium and despite having a large algae scrubber it is at 420. So good. Iodine was a little low but not bad. Will check to see if there is any consumption.
 

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an algae scrubber or chaeto fuge would supposedly deplete Fe faster, but low Fe has not been detrimental to coral health with water changes in the cases/posts ive read. have you tested Fe and whats your W/C schedule like?
 
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BrandonS

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I have not yet. Will have to. I do 30 gallons a week on a 180 gallon total volume (150 gallon main tank) system. I recently switched from natural sea water (Monterey bay) to red sea blue bucket.
 
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