WHAT THE HECK IS HAPPENING?

[melypr1985]

There are only two 100% effective and proven ways to kill ich. Copper treatment and TTM.

And even if h2o2 killed the parasite it's still alive and active in the tank. Period.

Well said. The ich likely just fell off like it normally would as part of it's life cycle and hasn't shown obvious symptoms due to the fish being able to fight off most of it. It's still alive and well in the fish's gills.

 

[Cory]

Ask any microbiolgists they will tell you to use that to kill the parasite not copper

 

[bknapp]

Wonder what @Humblefish would have to say.

 

[melypr1985]

Ask any microbiolgists they will tell you to use that to kill the parasite not copper

And it might have worked in a different stage of the lifecycle. It's very hard to kill the parasite while it's attached to the fish since it's protected by the fish's slime coat and skin. It may work during the free-swimming stage, but I'm not thinking this cured your fish totally. Especially since you still had some attached to the fish after the treatment.

 

[Sabellafella]

Fwiw i killed all the ich/ whatever it was with a saltwater h202 bath.

My black clownfish had been covered in ich to the point where it was going to die. I had to do something. All other fish were fine. Except the black percula.

Treatment:

1) capture fish
2) put in a glass of water 1 liter or so
3) get 5ml of hydrogen peroxide and put it into the water with the fish in it.
4) let fish bathe in this for 30 minutes.
5) put fish back in tank.
6) discard water
7) check all parameters in tank and get them corrected.

The next morning the fish was eating and had a 70% reduction of the parasite. It would have died without this treatment. 3 days later nothing on the fish.

How was this, alot of people in my area swear by it but ive never tryd it. You think its possible for brook?

 

[Humblefish]

Based on the pic in post #7, you may very well be dealing with velvet here. You will know soon enough as all your fish will start dropping like flies. If that doesn't happen, I suspect ich instead. It's really hard to be 100% certain from the pic. Do you see any of the behavioral symptoms of velvet in any of your other fish (below)?

Velvet (Amyloodinium):

Symptoms - Because velvet can be such a fast killer, key behavioral symptoms will often prelude visible ones. A fish with velvet may breathe heavy, seek relief by swimming into the flow of a powerhead and act reclusive (velvet makes them sensitive to light).

If visible symptoms do manifest; velvet appears the same as ich, except the fish will usually be covered in “dust.” This dust may look gold colored if viewed at the right angle and under the right spectrum of light. Velvet is often misdiagnosed as ich and is the main “tank killer” in our hobby. It can wipe out all your fish in less than 72 hours and cannot usually be “managed” as ich sometimes is.

Treatment options - Chloroquine phosphate is the treatment of choice for velvet, but copper also works if symptoms are caught early on. Tank transfer and hypo does notwork with velvet. A freshwater dip or formalin bath is recommended before treatment begins, due to the severity of this disease; however these would only provide temporary relief and will not eradicate velvet.

 

[Cory]

Ask any microbiolgists they will tell you to use that to kill the parasite not copper

That was meant for sabenfella lol

It was a miracle really. Not kidding. Foggy eyes, body covered in slimy ich. 3 days later 100% back to normal.

I reccomed copper in a quarantine tank to wait for the life cycle to finish in the tank.

 

[Sabellafella]

That was meant for sabenfella lol

It was a miracle really. Not kidding. Foggy eyes, body covered in slimy ich. 3 days later 100% back to normal.

I reccomed copper in a quarantine tank to wait for the life cycle to finish in the tank.

Food grade Or standard?. Believe it or not a couple people out here use prazipro for dipping acros,for fish freshwater and peroxide dips. Maybe ill give it a try

 

[Cory]

Food grade Or standard?. Believe it or not a couple people out here use prazipro for dipping acros,for fish freshwater and peroxide dips. Maybe ill give it a try

I bought it in the parmacy, 3% h2o2. Ive never hear that before. Crazy!

 

[robert]

Actually H2O2 is well recognized as a treatment for ich - has many of the same drawbacks as hypo - it can be pretty hard on the patient...

 

[Cory]

Yes and here is some more "bad advice":

http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/hydrogen-peroxide

 

[robert]

Copper has its own issues - and it too can be quite lethal to the host....

We assume a 70+ fallow period from studies which were conducted on cold water species of ich...there are thousands of strains...including some which lie dormant in the tissue of fish itself for up to five months where copper is of little use...

It seems to me...if your going to rationalized a 70+ day fallow period on the "exceptional" case of cold water strains - then following that logic - copper treatments might be extended to six months - just to be sure...its a bit silly.

Neither Ich or velvet are lethal at low concentrations...run your tank to limit their density and it becomes what it is in nature...an opprotunistic pest which the fishes own immune system can deal with and which is seldom if ever lethal.

 

[Cory]

I wouldnt treat the tank with it unless you want to kill most everything. But if its fishless and live rock less/ and coraless dose away. Thats the purpose for doing it in a separate container.

Just think, h202 adds oxygen and parasites attack the gills too. H202 is a double whammy killing the parasite and adding needed o2

 

[Sabellafella]

Yes and here is some more "bad advice":

http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/hydrogen-peroxide

Wow thats interesting

 

[melev]

Those are Bimaculatus fwiw, not Bicolor. IME, and as Sabellafella noted, Anathias can be very difficult fish to have shipped and acclimate. Most of my LFS will not even bring Anthias in for this very reason. Ironically, the only LFS in my area that has them from time-to-time is Petco lol.

I have 10 Anthias at the moment and it took me quite a while to build this group. I use a 2+ hour acclimation procedure that has not failed me yet.

• Float bag for 2o minutes.
• Pour contents of bag into bucket and drip acclimate for 30 minutes with heater.
• Pour 1 gallon of tank water into a 2nd bucket and use 1 packet of Safety Stop Green. Add air stone and heater.
• Net fish from drip bucket into "green" bucket. Set timer for 45 minutes.
• Pour 1 gallon of tank water into a 3rd bucket and use 1 packet of Safety Stop Blue. Move air stone and heater over from "green" bucket.
• Net fish from green bucket and transfer to "blue" bucket. Set timer for 45 minutes again.
• Net fish from "blue" bucket into QT or DT... depending on your method of introducing new fish.

Here's my video about that.

 

[Cory]

Fwiw i asked Randy what to do here for a good dosage as my advice was based on experience:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/h202-for-ich-treatment.230875/

 

[Broadfield]

Here's my video about that.

Yeah Marc, I swear by Safety Stop. My last shipment of Anthias included a male Randall's that was REALLY hurting upon arrival. When inspecting the bag, before putting it in my sump for temp acclimation, I actually thought he was DOA. But after the Safety Stop process, he was nearly as active as the others and eating within 24 hours. I'm not saying it's a miracle product, but I think it's a great step before introducing new fish to the QT or DT.

 

[Cory]

Here is some good info:

"
Treatment Option 12: Hydrogen Peroxide

This is one of the newest ideas for treating Amyloodinium ocellatum and, in my mind, one of the most interesting and promising as well. The first study used 20 juvenile Pacific Threadfin (Polydactylus sexfilis) suffering with an infection of Amyloodinium ocellatum. They were randomly divided into four open water tanks. One tank was the control and received no treatment. The control fish were examined and found to have a mean of 16.6 ± 16.2 trophonts per gill biopsy. The fish that were to be treated with varying levels of hydrogen peroxide were also examined and found to harbor a mean of 35.6 ± 38.7 trophonts per gill biopsy. Water flow to the three treatment tanks was stopped and they were dosed with hydrogen peroxide at concentrations of 75, 150, and 300 ppm. The fish were exposed for thirty minutes and then the water flow was returned to rid the tanks of the hydrogen peroxide. Within one hour of treatment, all the fish exposed to 300 ppm hydrogen peroxide had perished, but the fish exposed to only 75 and 150 ppm tolerated the treatment without any deaths. The surviving fish were examined immediately after treatment and found to harbor no more parasites. They were re-examined the following day. The treated fish were still infection free while the untreated fish were found to have an increase in the trophonts counted."

 

[garra671]

here are pictures of the 2 fish that are showing symptoms as of right now, let me know what you think. BOTH FISH ARE EATING ENDLESSLY, no pinched fins as of yet no gasping for air from what i can see and are both still swimming around the tank. @Cory @melev @Sabellafella @Humblefish @melypr1985

 

[Cory]

You could dip the tang in 1 liter tank water with 5ml h202 for 30 mins. You will see those ruptures fall off too.

However id even wait if hes eating good. I would use it for really bad situations. My fish was way worse than yours and lived. You can even dose the tank with h202.

Heres a thread with success dosing in the tank for velvet, even worse than ich:
http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/283706-hydrogen-peroxide-to-treat-velvet/