What wattage UV for 126G tank?

[kinetic]

I got an AquaUV 25 watt UV Sterilizer, but people have been telling me I should size up.

I want to be able to keep any ich in check if it somehow makes it through QT, any dinoflagellates if it's the right type, and generally help with water clarity (lowest priority here).

I'll run it off a manifold with a flow meter so I can adjust flow as needed.

DT is about 126 gallons, sump will be 30 gallons approximately.

Any suggestions?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I got an AquaUV 25 watt UV Sterilizer, but people have been telling me I should size up.

I want to be able to keep any ich in check if it somehow makes it through QT, any dinoflagellates if it's the right type, and generally help with water clarity (lowest priority here).

I'll run it off a manifold with a flow meter so I can adjust flow as needed.

DT is about 126 gallons, sump will be 30 gallons approximately.

Any suggestions?

At 400 gph flow, that unit will give you between 75000 and 100000 uws/cm2 which is a pretty good kill rate for algae and bacteria. I’ve seen published kill numbers for Cryptocaryon theronts/tomites of double that though.

Dwell time is also an issue - slowing the flow rate raises the kill rate, but then enough of the propagules can avoid going through the UV and reinfect the fish that it can be difficult to stop an infection with a smaller UV.

Personally, I’d go with a 40w unit, but I wonder if you could just add another 25 watt in series since you already have one? You’d have to research that though, I’ve never tried running them in series like that.

Jay

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

i would find an 80 watt or so unit

 

[kinetic]

At 400 gph flow, that unit will give you between 75000 and 100000 uws/cm2 which is a pretty good kill rate for algae and bacteria. I’ve seen published kill numbers for Cryptocaryon theronts/tomites of double that though.

Dwell time is also an issue - slowing the flow rate raises the kill rate, but then enough of the propagules can avoid going through the UV and reinfect the fish that it can be difficult to stop an infection with a smaller UV.

Personally, I’d go with a 40w unit, but I wonder if you could just add another 25 watt in series since you already have one? You’d have to research that though, I’ve never tried running them in series like that.

Jay

Thanks Jay. I think it would make more sense to just sell the current unit (it's new in box, someone's bound to want it at a slight discount) and get a 40w.

I know AquaUV has a 57watt, and Pentair has a 40watt. Sizes are comparable so it will fit. Maybe I'll opt for the bigger one just to be safe.

 

[kinetic]

i would find an 80 watt or so unit

Why? Have you had an 80 watt on a 126g tank and it worked better for you for any reasons?

 

[kadamik]

Why? Have you had an 80 watt on a 126g tank and it worked better for you for any reasons?

I just purchased the 57 watt model, and my Apex is showing it only pulling 44 watts. I called Aqua and they said it was because it was plugged into an energy bar. I purchased a separate watt meter and pulled it directly into the wall plug and it still only shows 43 watts. I have an open ticket with them to see if it is deflective or if it really only runs at 43 watts. I have seen a few post and reviews that mentioned that but hope to have confirmation. Not sure how they can rate it at 57 watts if it only uses 43 watts

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

Why? Have you had an 80 watt on a 126g tank and it worked better for you for any reasons?

bulb replacement costs and once you get into multi bulb units. plus you might add a fuge or get a bigger tank etc.

, i have 80 and 120 watt units on my tanks and i buy all 40 watt bulbs that are the same, they are cheaper by the case. You cant really have too much uv the difference is not way overkill with an extra 40 watts