What would you replace an L2 with for a closed loop?

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

Which pump would you choose and why?

Needs to have similar sized openings (1.5/1.25) and be DC and controllable

 

[UncommonSense]

What of revisiting the sediment prefilter idea, then going with a single massive abyzz to replace both L2s?

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

What of revisiting the sediment prefilter idea, then going with a single massive abyzz to replace both L2s?

I’m near certain this damage was caused a while
back, during the same time period the other one was damaged. There are a couple problems to work out here. It’s going to be easier to explain all this on a video. I’ll record it when I get home and post it later. There are several options actually. There is a completely different idea I have for one of the loops, that I really like.

 

[mfinn]

I replaced a L2 on my closed loop with a RD3 150 watt about 10 years ago.

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

What of revisiting the sediment prefilter idea, then going with a single massive abyzz to replace both L2s?

 

[UncommonSense]

WOW! That is indeed a lot of flow!!

Assuming these sea swirl replacements can handle the amount of water you’re trying to move, I don’t see why they wouldn’t work just the same as your current setup!

I see what you mean about the central inlet pulling a vortex from the surface! — a tee will DEFINITELY help with that, especially if you get a reducing tee, with the perpendicular socket smaller than the parallel sockets! — this will essentially make the abyzz intake from both sides… pulling at high velocity sideways May allow sand to be sucked up… a pair of 45 elbows on the parallel tee sockets could be used to further direct the Abyzz inlets, too!

If you don’t opt to swap the L2 loops for wave makers, my thinking was to use both of the L2 inlets, teed together outside the tank, to a sediment strainer, to one larger pump inlet!— The space both L2s consume mean there isn’t room for a sediment strainer on the inlet of each… but if you put a strainer where one of them was, you may just have enough space back in that nook for one larger pump! — the intakes inside the tank could also have reducing tees, like the central Abyzz inlet!

 

[archipelago]

I would just do a quick swap out with a PR Hydro Tube duh

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

WOW! That is indeed a lot of flow!!

Assuming these sea swirl replacements can handle the amount of water you’re trying to move, I don’t see why they wouldn’t work just the same as your current setup!

I see what you mean about the central inlet pulling a vortex from the surface! — a tee will DEFINITELY help with that, especially if you get a reducing tee, with the perpendicular socket smaller than the parallel sockets! — this will essentially make the abyzz intake from both sides… pulling at high velocity sideways May allow sand to be sucked up… a pair of 45 elbows on the parallel tee sockets could be used to further direct the Abyzz inlets, too!

If you don’t opt to swap the L2 loops for wave makers, my thinking was to use both of the L2 inlets, teed together outside the tank, to a sediment strainer, to one larger pump inlet!— The space both L2s consume mean there isn’t room for a sediment strainer on the inlet of each… but if you put a strainer where one of them was, you may just have enough space back in that nook for one larger pump! — the intakes inside the tank could also have reducing tees, like the central Abyzz inlet!

I have around 150 times display turnover not including anything coming from the sump.

Interesting. I have debated something a little batty. First, Ed who makes the Sea Swirls hates my set up. He just had to rebuild one of my swirls. He said I was the first person ever to blow it apart the way I did. I think they should be below 900gph, I have the L2 at 98% and it’s about 18 inches from the 2 swirls. I’m just a tad above that. I try not to have the swirls in the background when he wants to see my display. He is also not crazy about the back pressure I am creating.

So, my batty idea is to plumb them to a Reeflo pump that I plumb from the outside of my house. The tank is up to an exterior wall. I already have several pipes that come in and out of my house for my system. I have thought that I could put the pump in some type of box this way it was out of the weather and I could put a leak sensor or two in it. Just a thought…

 

[UncommonSense]

I have around 150 times display turnover not including anything coming from the sump.

Interesting. I have debated something a little batty. First, Ed who makes the Sea Swirls hates my set up. He just had to rebuild one of my swirls. He said I was the first person ever to blow it apart the way I did. I think they should be below 900gph, I have the L2 at 98% and it’s about 18 inches from the 2 swirls. I’m just a tad above that. I try not to have the swirls in the background when he wants to see my display. He is also not crazy about the back pressure I am creating.

So, my batty idea is to plumb them to a Reeflo pump that I plumb from the outside of my house. The tank is up to an exterior wall. I already have several pipes that come in and out of my house for my system. I have thought that I could put the pump in some type of box this way it was out of the weather and I could put a leak sensor or two in it. Just a thought…

I mean, yeah… you’re creating a ton of back pressure by trying to squeeze all that water through a small orifice, and loosing a lot of flow from an L2!

I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t remote plumb a more appropriately sized pump for the sea swirls, assuming you had weather and thermal protection, plus the aforementioned leak detector/inspections… many public aquariums do it this way on at least a few of their systems!

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

@UncommonSense - sitting here watching thinking. I put the new L2 on, I also relocated it, see below. I took the RFGs off and have them in Reefcrest, it works nicely. However, as I sit here and think about perhaps thinking about eliminating one of the closed loops and replace with Tunze’s Orca when available. But, as I sit here I thought “shoot” I can’t plumb that closed loop drain to my chiller. If the line popped a leak in the back yard there goes 450-500 gallons.

 

[UncommonSense]

@UncommonSense - sitting here watching thinking. I put the new L2 on, I also relocated it, see below. I took the RFGs off and have them in Reefcrest, it works nicely. However, as I sit here and think about perhaps thinking about eliminating one of the closed loops and replace with Tunze’s Orca when available. But, as I sit here I thought “shoot” I can’t plumb that closed loop drain to my chiller. If the line popped a leak in the back yard there goes 450-500 gallons.

That makes perfect sense! Though, I suppose if the line popped a leak inside the house it might be even worse!

I like the new L2 plumbing location! — It leaves more room for activities down low!

I hadn’t heard about the Tunze Orca! I’ll have to look into it!

I’m glad you’re continuing to ruminate on this one; it’s a complex, high output system with a lot of moving parts!

 

[areefer01]

The ORCA is Tunze + collaboration with someone making an oscillating device similar to Ed's (Sea Swirl creator) Sea Sweep. Tunze is adding some features such as a sensor for true center and allowing control of sweep movement. The device based on what has been shown so far has some nice mounting options and of decent form factor.

Bit of a bummer though as it would seem Ed's patents are up and everyone is coming out with their versions.