When to pull all fish for a first time hospital/quarantining? flukes,ich,velvet or all?

blazin'reefer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 8, 2020
Messages
206
Reaction score
44
Location
manitoba
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi i recently added a maroon clown to my 55 display without quarantine (I now know how dumb that was) and he never started eatting, would spit all food out for over a week so i eventually moved him to my 3g aio but it was too late and had no idea what he had and he died slowly. Fast forward about a month later now and my display after never having symptoms of any disease for atleast a year or 2 now i am having a ton of symptoms. It first started with brownish black spots on my mimic tang, flashing and head shaking so i dosed prazi twice at 80% a week apart doing the water changes but things didnt really improve so i just tried a second round of prazi at 100% (just finished first dose a couple or few days ago was dosed on the 24th at midnight my time) but there are still all the same symptoms so i cant decide if i should do a 4th dose in a few days still or not since its not really helping. The real problem tho is now i am seeing white spots on the talbot damsels fins pretty bad, some on the tangs fins and also on the green clown goby that i also recently moved to the 3g and 2 of my fish the talbot and mimic (the ones with the visible symptoms) are both swimming into the flow constantly too. I dont know if i have flukes, ich, or velvet or all 3 and how i would get them all from one clown with no visible problems other than refusing to eat and starving himself. I have never done qt or hospital tanks before but i do have a 25 or 30 cube i just water tested that i guess i could maybe use alsong as it doesnt start leaking or burst but i dont know if i should pull all fish at this time and cram them into it for a couple months and either try hypo (dont have calibration fluid for my refractomer currently so would need to get some) or copper which i dont have currently and am planning on ordering copper power the blue stuff dosing to exact water volume and api test using sunlight to verify if i do need to (i know hanna is way better but i cant really justify like almost $100 for a test i would rarely use at this time) but i am also from canada so will take some time to get any meds shipped here from the US. For someone in my shoes who has never treated and doesnt know what they have going on exactly what is the best cost friendly way of trying to save them? should a beginner in treating fish take the plunge and pull all or just try to manage whatever it is all fish have and if they do all die then replace them in a few months after leaving the tank fallow? what would be better for all the fish? List of current fish and symptoms: Talbot Damsel- white specs on fins and possibly body but hard to see, swimming in flow most of the time, only eatting sometimes, sort of pale looking. Chocolate Mimic Tang- started with brown/black spots which mostly seem gone but now has white specs on fins, still flashing body against sand, still shaking head erratic while swimming and still swimming into flow at night, also constantly near the coral banded shrimp trying to get help. Was sitting still pressed against a rock when i was doing some cleaning earlier before i do a waterchange too. Also slightly supressed appetite too but still eats a lot. Green Clown Goby- started with dots with long stringy mucous sheets on them, did a hydrogen peroxide dip and moved him to the 3g where i have dosed metro every 48h the last 4 days. mucous sheets are gone but large white dots still remain. I think it is ich due to its appearance now. Lemon Damsel- twitching head a ton during prazi and flashing, a symptomatic currently springeri damsel- same as lemon, a symptomatic currently yellow tail damsel- same as lemon, a symptomatic currently watchman goby- a symptomatic current other than a messed up jaw thats been like that for a year.
 
OP
OP
B

blazin'reefer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 8, 2020
Messages
206
Reaction score
44
Location
manitoba
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
A separate tank with sterile water always helpful but depends on state of the fish's health. 55g is not causing issues and lethargic often associated with disease such as velvet, flukes, etc
Add aeration.
well he looks really bad, basically sits in one spot not moving and twitching continuously and then moves to another spot and does the same leaning against the rock sometimes so he doesnt fall over. barely moving his fins at all. Hes not touching the nori or algae wafer either when he normally destroys it. I could try to quickly set it up with sterile water but i dont know if it would survive the transfer over let alone the tank not being cycled. I increased oxygen in the 55 but at this point i wouldnt be surprised to find him dead in the next day or 2 maybe even hour or 2 to be completely honest although i hope with the water change he pulls through some how.
 
Upvote 0
OP
OP
B

blazin'reefer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 8, 2020
Messages
206
Reaction score
44
Location
manitoba
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
he looks like he is about to keel over for good unfortunately he is very dark colored and his stomache looks almost completely white and he is barely breathing, its extremely short shallow breaths while twitching. i feel defeated, never thought adding one clownfish would or even could cause so much harm. i thought if anything maybe they would get ich and then it would be easy to tell what it was so i could treat, it seems im dealing with a real a****** parasite.
 
Upvote 0
OP
OP
B

blazin'reefer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 8, 2020
Messages
206
Reaction score
44
Location
manitoba
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
well it died over night, im 99% sure anyways it is completely white now and doesnt look like its breathing at all and theres bristle worms near it. going to give an hour or 2 and if it doesnt move scoop it out and maybe put it in the waterchange bucket until i stomache flushing it since its winter and i cant burry it outside.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0

Reefing threads: Do you wear gear from reef brands?

  • I wear reef gear everywhere.

    Votes: 27 15.2%
  • I wear reef gear primarily at fish events and my LFS.

    Votes: 11 6.2%
  • I wear reef gear primarily for water changes and tank maintenance.

    Votes: 1 0.6%
  • I wear reef gear primarily to relax where I live.

    Votes: 24 13.5%
  • I don’t wear gear from reef brands.

    Votes: 103 57.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 12 6.7%
Back
Top