Which Kreg Jig to purchase

[lacrosseboss18]

Im looking to purchase a Kreg jig. Wondering which one I should go for?
They have the basic one that you clamp on for $20 to 40 to the Kreg k5 pocket hole jig for $140

Price isn't the concern. Its Which would be the most versatile/ easy to use.

Not looking to do major projects but mess around and build a stand
maybe, apex utility box, something to hide the ATO container.

Thanks

 

[sharpimage]

I have one similar to the top, cheaper version. It does everything I need it to. The better one probably does it faster, but for the amount I use it, it doesn't matter. You should check harbor freight as I am sure they are cheaper, or amazon for that matter

 

[Sleepydoc]

How much are you going to use it? I have one in between the two you posted and use it a lot. The nicer one is a lot more convenient but if you're just getting it for a single project then get the cheaper one.

 

[Michael Lane]

I've used both and found that I prefer the smaller, clamp on version. For me, it was easier when using larger material or the ends of long material.

 

[hyprc]

Do you need to take whatever you're building apart? These jigs are a waste imo as screws in general are weak. Glue will hold WORLDS better and if used properly, be stronger than the wood itself in most cases. I've seen a lot of guys get by just fine free handing the pilot holes sans the jig if you must use pocket holes.

 

[Kodski]

Do you need to take whatever you're building apart? These jigs are a waste imo as screws in general are weak. Glue will hold WORLDS better and if used properly, be stronger than the wood itself in most cases. I've seen a lot of guys get by just fine free handing the pilot holes sans the jig if you must use pocket holes.

I strongly disagree. Straight glue might resist pulling apart, but it has very little shear strength. This is why wood workers use different types of joints. (not the green kind) Joints, number one, increase surface area for the glue. The more glue the stronger the bond. Number two, joints create strength laterally, or increase shear strength. Some joints include, mortise and tenon, dovetail, biscuit, and dowel. There are many more but those are usually the most common. I will say that gluing and clamping pieces together that which are non structural, like OP's mentioned Apex utility box, will be just fine. I'm more talking along the lines of structural projects like aquarium stands.

If you're using a pocket jig with the correct sizing of material and length of screws it will be plenty strong for 99% of applications. If you're worried about strength, add some glue. In this case, the screws will add lateral strength to the joint and glue will make the joint even stronger.

To the OP, just please do not just put two pieces of wood together and glue it for anything structural.

I personally have the pocket jig in the first picture. I've used it to make all kinds of furniture and several aquarium stands. Heck I don't even have the locking clamp for it. I do mean to buy it eventually, probably when I build my kitchen cabinets when that time comes, but I just use a standard clamp instead and I don't have any issues. The big expensive one is more for cabinetry and furniture making, I'd highly recommend just getting the cheaper one. Oh, and using the kreg specific screws does make a big difference too. Also pay attention to hardwood vs softwood screws for your specific application.

 

[hyprc]

I strongly disagree. Straight glue might resist pulling apart, but it has very little shear strength. This is why wood workers use different types of joints. (not the green kind) Joints, number one, increase surface area for the glue. The more glue the stronger the bond. Number two, joints create strength laterally, or increase shear strength. Some joints include, mortise and tenon, dovetail, biscuit, and dowel. There are many more but those are usually the most common. I will say that gluing and clamping pieces together that which are non structural, like OP's mentioned Apex utility box, will be just fine. I'm more talking along the lines of structural projects like aquarium stands.

If you're using a pocket jig with the correct sizing of material and length of screws it will be plenty strong for 99% of applications. If you're worried about strength, add some glue. In this case, the screws will add lateral strength to the joint and glue will make the joint even stronger.

This is why I also mentioned actual joinery (in parallel thread, sorry I left it out here, OPs had VERY similar avatars at first glance). You really think screws have real shear strength? Once they're stressed once or twice (especially with the lateral force of hundreds of pounds of water rocking back and forth on top of it), they're pretty useless. Watch some Project Farm test videos ;) Joinery is the only way to have real strength joining wood. Not that wood itself is the strongest thing to build with...

I would've agreed that end grain to face (simple butt joint) would be stronger with a good screw vs just glue but Project Farm proved me wrong on that one too (it's stronger hold than most screws even with sheer strength, so my point kinda still stands). Edit: I still wouldn't recommend just glue on a butt joint, as endgrain will soak in glue so you need to fill that endgrain somehow first (with glue or something else) before gluing up the actual joint), so you have a high likelihood of screwing up this glue-up and making a very, very weak joint.

 

[dohc97]

I started with the smaller one, then moved to the bigger one, found it way easier to use when you have to make pocket holes in a bunch of pieces of wood of same size. I much prefer it and wish I had bought it first.

 

[Sleepydoc]

Do you need to take whatever you're building apart? These jigs are a waste imo as screws in general are weak. Glue will hold WORLDS better and if used properly, be stronger than the wood itself in most cases. I've seen a lot of guys get by just fine free handing the pilot holes sans the jig if you must use pocket holes.

I strongly disagree. Straight glue might resist pulling apart, but it has very little shear strength. This is why wood workers use different types of joints. (not the green kind) Joints, number one, increase surface area for the glue. The more glue the stronger the bond. Number two, joints create strength laterally, or increase shear strength. Some joints include, mortise and tenon, dovetail, biscuit, and dowel. There are many more but those are usually the most common. I will say that gluing and clamping pieces together that which are non structural, like OP's mentioned Apex utility box, will be just fine. I'm more talking along the lines of structural projects like aquarium stands.

If you're using a pocket jig with the correct sizing of material and length of screws it will be plenty strong for 99% of applications. If you're worried about strength, add some glue. In this case, the screws will add lateral strength to the joint and glue will make the joint even stronger.

To the OP, just please do not just put two pieces of wood together and glue it for anything structural.

I personally have the pocket jig in the first picture. I've used it to make all kinds of furniture and several aquarium stands. Heck I don't even have the locking clamp for it. I do mean to buy it eventually, probably when I build my kitchen cabinets when that time comes, but I just use a standard clamp instead and I don't have any issues. The big expensive one is more for cabinetry and furniture making, I'd highly recommend just getting the cheaper one. Oh, and using the kreg specific screws does make a big difference too. Also pay attention to hardwood vs softwood screws for your specific application.

you are both right and wrong. The strongest joint depends on the style of joinery, the application and the loads placed on it.

A glue joint can be incredibly strong. Properly done, it's frequently said that the glue is stronger than the wood. When you look at glue joints that fail, it's the body of the wood that tears apart, not the bond between the glue and the wood. That doesn't necessarily hold for but joints, however since glue doesn't hold as well to end grain.

An article I read several years ago in Fine Woodworking compared lap joints, mortise & tendons, dowels, biscuits, etc. Pocket screws actually out-performed Domino joints, biscuits, plain butt joints and stub tenons. Keep in mind that you can use pocket screws and glue; the pocket screws will add strength as well as serve as a clamp for the joint.

The real question isn't whether the joint is the strongest possible joint; it's whether the joint is strong enough for the load placed on it - if you are making a face frame for the front of a 3 foot stand for a 40 breeder, there will be very little stress put on the joint so pretty much anything would be fine. The most important part of all this is designing your stand and the required joinery properly.

 

[Barnabie Mejia]

I went with the K4 because HD didn't have the K5 in stock. I love it, I originally bought so I could build my controller cabinet. I didn't want to build a shoddy cabinet and regret it later when the tank was running, so I went ahead and dove in head first. now that the cabinet is done, I have build cabinets for the garage, outdoor storage shelves for the patio, new towel racks...… just realizing as I type this, I just gave myself more work by purchasing the Kreg jig..... hmmm.....

buy the K5 or the K4... you won't regret it. I am a firm believer of buy once, cry once.... but i'm also a tool junkie, my friends are sometimes confused on what I really do in the garage when the see wood tools, automotive tools, home improvement tools, and metal working/ welding machinery haha

Thanks,

Barnabie

 

[AZMSGT]

I have this one:
https://www.kregtool.com/store/c13/kreg-jigsreg/p35/kreg-jigreg-k4-master-system/
I’m not going to get into the which joint is better argument. But when I use the Kreg I often use glue on the same joint. Typically, I use the Kreg joint as a stabilizer/clamp so I can continue to work on the project while the glue dries.

 

[Billdogg]

I have both the smaller clamp on one and the older version (K4?) of the larger. They both have their uses. I use my K4 most of the time, but like someone else said, on really long boards it can be impossible. Then the smaller one comes out.

Assuming your cuts are square (as they should be) I find that assembly is a breeze. The very nature of the pocket hole system draw the pieces together, straight and true. Glue should be used on ALL wood joinery unless you intend to disassemble in the future.

 

[Barnabie Mejia]

I have both the smaller clamp on one and the older version (K4?) of the larger. They both have their uses. I use my K4 most of the time, but like someone else said, on really long boards it can be impossible. Then the smaller one comes out.

Assuming your cuts are square (as they should be) I find that assembly is a breeze. The very nature of the pocket hole system draw the pieces together, straight and true. Glue should be used on ALL wood joinery unless you intend to disassemble in the future.

Agree.

as for the long boards, I use my K4 all the time I just make my location marks at 4 1/4" out from the edge and place the jig. its important to make sure you have the right clamping force on the piece, and then you just drill away. I have made pocket holes on the 8' side of a board many times before.

 

[Sleepydoc]

Agree.

as for the long boards, I use my K4 all the time I just make my location marks at 4 1/4" out from the edge and place the jig. its important to make sure you have the right clamping force on the piece, and then you just drill away. I have made pocket holes on the 8' side of a board many times before.

Totally agree - you can remove the guide and use it separately from the clamping station. Mine actually came with an adaptor to facilitate positioning when using it separately.

 

[Protodad]

The cheap one works fine assuming you don’t plan to use it all the time. It’s a little unwieldy trying to hook it to a 2x4 freehand.

I thought Kreg made a fixed jig that doesn’t have all of the extra extensions in the second photo. FIL is a cabinet guy and uses something similar but it’s mounted to a custom fixture.

 

[techdef]

Also check out the new HD Kreg kit for 2x stock and up. Significant upsize for structural use on decks, railings and stairs.

I just built a 3-story staircase with it and my inspector was quite impressed.

 

[Wildcats1023]

I have this one and it works great. You can get it for less if you can find one of the millions of discount coupons they put out. If the link doesnt work search pocket hole

https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-pocket-hole-jig-kit-96266.html

 

[John08007]

I build furniture, i think you should be looking.at the k4 or k5. The difference appears to be speed to set up if youre using different thickness wood. I was gonna get the k4 but now prob getting k5 because i want the speed to switch up and use