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Same here. Hoping someone has some answers to it!
I have battled this. It sucks. I found this post on another forum that helped and I think someone on this thread also mentioned it. It is bacteria and you have to fight it with bacteria.
Here is the link
White Slime, heterotrophic treatment for phthalataes? - Reef Central Online Community
White Slime, heterotrophic treatment for phthalataes? Reef Discussion
www.reefcentral.com
This is the recommendation in the post
The Cure & How to Do It
The root of the problem is a common bacteria, Alcaligenes xylosoxidans, found wherever humans congregate and known for its copious slime production. It grows out of control when volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and phalates are present in high concentrations. The plug‐in deodorizers contain a fair amount of both compound groups, but apparently not enough to cause the bloom of the slime‐producing bacteria. Our data indicates that the catastrophic initiation event (commercial cleaning services or a fire) was then required to put the nutrient level over the threshold concentration point, which then allowed the slime‐producing heterotrophic bacteria to bloom. We called Dr. Tim Hovanec, right, one the world's leading experts on aquarium bacteria, for advice. Dr-Tim-Hovanec.jpg On his advice, we began the process by removing all of the obvious sources of phthalates in both locations. Air "freshening" and deodorizing systems and sprays are among the suspected culprits in this case. As we removed the sources of phthalates and worked to minimize VOCs in both locations where white slime had broken out, the slime production appeared to diminish slowly.
The controlling factors, however, are the heterotrophic bacteria that we are now introducing, as suggested by Dr. Hovanec. These beneficial bacterial species will actually break down the slime and out‐compete the slime‐producing bacteria for food. In this fashion, we are able to control the slime‐producing heterotrophs and keep them in check.
Dr. Hovanec recommended the use of Re‐Fresh initially at a dose of 5‐ml per 10‐gallons every other day for 7‐10 days. He went on to say that adding 35% hydrogen peroxide at a concentration of 2‐3 mls per 10‐gallons in conjunction with the Re‐Fresh would be very beneficial; however, our experiences indicate that some corals (mostly soft, but some stony) and certain species of fish (large angels in particular) can react adversely to the concentrated H2O2, so be careful with the 35% stuff. Once the slime has broken down, he said, we should change the additive to Waste‐Away. Also on an every other day basis, the Waste‐Away would be used at a 5‐ml per 10‐gallon dose for two treatments, then raised to 10‐ml per 5‐gallons after that. Once the slime has been eliminated, the Waste‐Away can be used as a routine maintenance product.
This has worked for me very well but after 2 months it has come back and I am again using Re-Fresh. It takes about a week to two weeks of using it but it does work. I do use a turkey baster to suck out as much of the slime as I can. I think Microbacter Clean might also help. I did not do the H2O2 part.
This thing multiplies crazy fast. I can suck it all out of the rocks and in a few hours the rocks are full of it again.
Good luck, I know how frustrating this can be. I think it affect new tanks started with dry rock. Because I have a 10 gallon that I started with wet live rock from the LFS and have not had this problem. I even moved some corals from the tank with the slime to the 10 gallon and the slime tried to grow on the 10 gallon but only lasted about 4 days and it all went away. I think because the 10 gallon is more established the slime bacteria could not take off like it did on the other tank.
Anyway the re-fresh works for me. Also doing water changes helps.