White Slime Bacteria?
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as I was thinking about this today it reminded me that getting to the glass walls and to the rock/across the tank indicates a nice water transition phase for the organism and makes it a prime candidate for uv filtration, I struggle to think other than antibacterial meds what else to do
im sure it has its own finite phase not being an avg inclusion in a reef tank, but however long that takes or if it ramps up worse first would not be fun variables to check. I have for sure seen on other uv threads where resourceful people were able to try them out as opposed to outright $$ purchase first go no check
-amazon has 30 day ret check the specifics of the seller first
-its easy to source w local pond people/forums, I assure you many pond owners keep the uv in the garage when it doesn't pan out to cure their stringy green hair algae issues, they'll lend it rent it etc.
im sure it has its own finite phase not being an avg inclusion in a reef tank, but however long that takes or if it ramps up worse first would not be fun variables to check. I have for sure seen on other uv threads where resourceful people were able to try them out as opposed to outright $$ purchase first go no check
-amazon has 30 day ret check the specifics of the seller first
-its easy to source w local pond people/forums, I assure you many pond owners keep the uv in the garage when it doesn't pan out to cure their stringy green hair algae issues, they'll lend it rent it etc.
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Jimbo
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I actually am running a UV sterilizer for the past 2 weeks. At that point the tank water was so cloudy it looked like there was white smoke in the water. The UV cleared this in less than 24 hours. At that point I had thought I had this beat but the white stringy bacteria returned a couple of days later. It has since gotten worse.
I did another 10 gallon water change today and drained the overflow. This stuff on the glass with no water has a clear, gelatinous texture.
Noticed something odd with the water change container. After emptying it into the tank I noticed that the container was a bit slimy. It has been sitting running with a power head and a heater for about 5 days sitting next to the tank so I may have contaminated it with tank water somehow.
Is it possible it's my source water? I'm using RO/DI that measures at 0 tds.
I did another 10 gallon water change today and drained the overflow. This stuff on the glass with no water has a clear, gelatinous texture.
Noticed something odd with the water change container. After emptying it into the tank I noticed that the container was a bit slimy. It has been sitting running with a power head and a heater for about 5 days sitting next to the tank so I may have contaminated it with tank water somehow.
Is it possible it's my source water? I'm using RO/DI that measures at 0 tds.
My brainstorms are running 48 hour delays on this tank lol I'm still trying to build up more ideas
The scums and precipitates are common at the bottom of the wc containers we use over time and mines pretty scummy and it just doesn't do this hopefully as others read our exchanges they can find missing details. It's amazing they are getting fed somewhere what a perplexing opportunist lol
I think in the end given time they will go away via natural competition as this isn't a normal inclusion at all
Using those bottled digesters is harmless to try and it's bacteria against bacteria seems reasonable. I've never read of harm from trying them even if they don't work
That microbacter 7 has a real following search out some of those threads I truly think it's a worthy six dollar shot Hail Mary pass here
The scums and precipitates are common at the bottom of the wc containers we use over time and mines pretty scummy and it just doesn't do this hopefully as others read our exchanges they can find missing details. It's amazing they are getting fed somewhere what a perplexing opportunist lol
I think in the end given time they will go away via natural competition as this isn't a normal inclusion at all
Using those bottled digesters is harmless to try and it's bacteria against bacteria seems reasonable. I've never read of harm from trying them even if they don't work
That microbacter 7 has a real following search out some of those threads I truly think it's a worthy six dollar shot Hail Mary pass here
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jadwv2210
Active Member
I see this same slime in my mixing containers for Hw Marine reefer salt. It's slimy and slightly opaque. If I smear it around and break it up and let the water mix longer it goes away. You wouldn't happen to be using that salt maybe? Probably not it I'm just guessing lol.
Stop dosing the micro Bacter 7 and the slime will eventually go away on its own. I find that customers I deal with have the same issue when they use MB7 on a daily basis when a tank is fresh. It's an over abundance of bacteria. Just have to let the system ride it self out.
But I was under the impression he wasn't dosing mb7 from the start maybe I read wrong?
Oh I see I reread. He started dosing as a reaction to the slime I didn't even see that in his post he had started it. I wonder how long it took to work on the tanks it did work on for cyano issues? I've never seen it work on slime tanks we usually just stop the carbon dosing to fix those, just a guess.
Let's peroxide blast it if nothing else works after a while longer. We have people doing this in regular tanks for minor issues so as additional last resorts if more simpler methods like waiting don't pan, we are zapping Dino infested tanks with calculated doses of peroxide and it doesn't harm the filter bacteria at all, perhaps these aggregates might respond differently
You could easily put some scrapings in a cup of sw, lightly dilute it with peroxide not a heavy dose just to see if it's uber susceptible. This is no impact to your tank as a test cup. If a few drops of peroxide in a small tiny water sample kills it that's neat to know. At least from here on out we should utilize test cups with various additives to see if any are a better long pass potential
Oh I see I reread. He started dosing as a reaction to the slime I didn't even see that in his post he had started it. I wonder how long it took to work on the tanks it did work on for cyano issues? I've never seen it work on slime tanks we usually just stop the carbon dosing to fix those, just a guess.
Let's peroxide blast it if nothing else works after a while longer. We have people doing this in regular tanks for minor issues so as additional last resorts if more simpler methods like waiting don't pan, we are zapping Dino infested tanks with calculated doses of peroxide and it doesn't harm the filter bacteria at all, perhaps these aggregates might respond differently
You could easily put some scrapings in a cup of sw, lightly dilute it with peroxide not a heavy dose just to see if it's uber susceptible. This is no impact to your tank as a test cup. If a few drops of peroxide in a small tiny water sample kills it that's neat to know. At least from here on out we should utilize test cups with various additives to see if any are a better long pass potential
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Jimbo
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I've been dosing the Microbacter7 for the last 7 days. It was started as a way to compete with the slime bacteria. After this last water change last night things seem to be looking better. The growth I wiped off of the overflow has not immediately grown back. The water is much clearer and less stringy growth on the rocks.
I'm hoping it's subsiding but I've thought it had been previously and it returned with a vengeance. Things for sure look better today , fingers crossed.
I'm hoping it's subsiding but I've thought it had been previously and it returned with a vengeance. Things for sure look better today , fingers crossed.
Randy Holmes-Farley
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What salt mix are you using? You may have already mentioned it, but a few mixes contain organics that may spur bacterial growth.
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OK, neither of those has organics in them as far as I know.
Keepswiming
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Op sorry to hijack the your thread.
@Randy Holmes-Farley do you know of any good reeds on organics and bacterial growth?
I recently experienced a ton of white particles (looks like left over mysis) being shot into my tank when I turned up my return pump. I run bio pellets but just figured it was left over food, until I thought about it (no fish were eating it and I never have any leftovers). Long story short, I had a stn/tip bleaching event this week ( still fighting it ) and I wonder if it is because of bacteria like this...
@Randy Holmes-Farley do you know of any good reeds on organics and bacterial growth?
I recently experienced a ton of white particles (looks like left over mysis) being shot into my tank when I turned up my return pump. I run bio pellets but just figured it was left over food, until I thought about it (no fish were eating it and I never have any leftovers). Long story short, I had a stn/tip bleaching event this week ( still fighting it ) and I wonder if it is because of bacteria like this...
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That does sound like bacteria. I get lots of that when I restart my main pumps. I dose organic carbon (vinegar). In your case, it may be bacteria feeding on leftovers from the pellets, from other organics naturally in the water, or possibly even things like nitrifying bacteria.
Here are some articles:
Organic Compounds in the Reef Aquarium by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2011/3/aafeature
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/8/aafeature3/
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/9/aafeature2/
Here are some articles:
Organic Compounds in the Reef Aquarium by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2011/3/aafeature
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/8/aafeature3/
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/9/aafeature2/
Keepswiming
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Would this cause acros to stn usually? Sorry for so many questions, I just want to get it under control before it kills my high end sticks. I turned off my reactor and did a 20% water change last night.
Thanks for the info!
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Maybe. Might be worth a try if bacteria are really unsightly. You'd just want to be sure you do not dose enough to itself cause more harm than the bacteria.
robert
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My guess its a heterotrophic bacteria - fed by an organic carbon source...
It will likely resolve unless somthing is still adding organic carbons to the system.
UV will likely help clear the "white" from the water but won't eliminate the stringy mat stuff.
H2O2 - won't help much either.
Hard skimming, carbon and purigen would go directly to the issue assuming something isn't adding the DOCs back as fast as you strip them out. Carbon and purigen would have to be changed frequently- or rinsed periodically with H2O2 to maintain its effectiveness.
There is a source...It might be your macro algae dieing off...these hold a reserve of complex carbons which they use in periods of low nitrate to survive - so depending on how much do you have in the system - it could be a large pool of nutrients....or it could be some other source of carbon breaking down in the system.
I've had this stuff a few times before - always while carbon dosing.
It will likely resolve unless somthing is still adding organic carbons to the system.
UV will likely help clear the "white" from the water but won't eliminate the stringy mat stuff.
H2O2 - won't help much either.
Hard skimming, carbon and purigen would go directly to the issue assuming something isn't adding the DOCs back as fast as you strip them out. Carbon and purigen would have to be changed frequently- or rinsed periodically with H2O2 to maintain its effectiveness.
There is a source...It might be your macro algae dieing off...these hold a reserve of complex carbons which they use in periods of low nitrate to survive - so depending on how much do you have in the system - it could be a large pool of nutrients....or it could be some other source of carbon breaking down in the system.
I've had this stuff a few times before - always while carbon dosing.
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