White spots on Clownfish?

[Seasickboss]

I have Googled this many times but really can't put my finger on if its actually an issue or not. In the picture you are able to see some whiteish spots on the back of the fish. I am just wondering if this is really an issue. Salinity is at 1.026 did a water change yesterday and checked nitrates and nitrites and they were both at 0. Other parameters also seem to be good. I also have a tuxedo urchin, cleaner shrimp and a strawberry conch. All others seem to be doing fine. I posted another thread about my other clownfish if they could potentially be related.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have Googled this many times but really can't put my finger on if its actually an issue or not. In the picture you are able to see some whiteish spots on the back of the fish. I am just wondering if this is really an issue. Salinity is at 1.026 did a water change yesterday and checked nitrates and nitrites and they were both at 0. Other parameters also seem to be good. I also have a tuxedo urchin, cleaner shrimp and a strawberry conch. All others seem to be doing fine. I posted another thread about my other clownfish if they could potentially be related.

These are secondary bacterial lesions from brooklynella. The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials

 

[Seasickboss]

These are secondary bacterial lesions from brooklynella. The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials

Literally just set up a QT tank just incase it was something serious. I really appreciate the prompt reply and will get moving on the solution. Thank you

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I have Googled this many times but really can't put my finger on if its actually an issue or not. In the picture you are able to see some whiteish spots on the back of the fish. I am just wondering if this is really an issue. Salinity is at 1.026 did a water change yesterday and checked nitrates and nitrites and they were both at 0. Other parameters also seem to be good. I also have a tuxedo urchin, cleaner shrimp and a strawberry conch. All others seem to be doing fine. I posted another thread about my other clownfish if they could potentially be related.

I’m not so sure this is Brooklynella, more history is needed. A video also helps diagnose that due to the change in swimming behavior seen with Brook.

Dual threads get really complicated. The issues with the fish may or may not be related, and you could get two completely different sets of advice, even from the same person. I’m juggling so many threads that I can’t say if I weighed in on the other thread or not.

Jay

 

[Seasickboss]

I’m not so sure this is Brooklynella, more history is needed. A video also helps diagnose that due to the change in swimming behavior seen with Brook.

Dual threads get really complicated. The issues with the fish may or may not be related, and you could get two completely different sets of advice, even from the same person. I’m juggling so many threads that I can’t say if I weighed in on the other thread or not.
Jay

Hey Jay,

I added some more pictures and videos just to see if you are able to spot anything different. I did end up buying some Ruby Rally Pro just incase it is Brooklynella.

https://youtube.com/shorts/niPomdV9vOQ?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/kKCwqgdLEQg?feature=share

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Thanks, these help, but still not conclusive. I can see distinct white spots in the photos, and that is more a symptom of marine ich. The fish look a bit thin in the videos, but I can't see clearly enough to say for sure if this is ich or brook. The trouble is, these take two different treatments.

You for sure are going to need a treatment tank, either way. The question is; do you go with copper for ich, or formalin/ruby reef for brook? I just can't answer that. @vetteguy53081 gave the original diagnosis, let's see if he has any thoughts after these new pics and video.

Jay

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hey Jay,

I added some more pictures and videos just to see if you are able to spot anything different. I did end up buying some Ruby Rally Pro just incase it is Brooklynella.

https://youtube.com/shorts/niPomdV9vOQ?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/kKCwqgdLEQg?feature=share

After reviewing new photos, Im siding with Jay on Ich. Keep the info for brook as they are susceptible to that also especially wild caught clowns..
Gor ich, you will still need to quarantine, except you will treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.0 - 2.25 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank may likely have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off